hans14914

The Sunex stand came in yesterday. I like it. Was easy to assemble, took about 30 minutes to go from box to a completed stand. Only negative comment is that the folding mechanism is kind of clumsy, but I dont see myself folding the thing up a lot.

I can confirm that the Jegs branded geared engine stand is indeed the Sunex. Actually there is no mention of Jegs anywhere on the packaging - and even had the Sunex logo and part number, so its a good deal with the free shipping too.

I have not had a chance to test fit the drip tray, but will do that tonight.

I will have the flange imported into CAD tonight, and hope to post final drawings this evening.

Thanks
Hans

hans14914

So here is the basic idea. The large flange bolts to the Sunex mounting plate. Going to the shop tomorrow for them to review and quote. Internal hub may change, but if I have it quoted like this, I can still make some original style yokes later on down the road.

Images and 3D PDF attached.

Thanks
Hans

Spun

I have not pulled the engine on mine yet (I have a spare 89 motor that I am going to redo first) so I do not have the actual engine bolts. What do folks recommend? Actual engine bolts or something else (size, pitch, etc recommendations would be a nice add to this thread )?

And Looking good Hans. Any predictions on when you will have these ship ready? Got my stand in last week... I went with the other options. I like the stability...

Rob Edwards

The upper bellhousing bolt holes in the block are M12 x 1.5 (fine pitch), so you need long M12 x 1.5 bolts. In a pinch you could use one of the front LCA mounting bolts, or if you had a GTS, drop the oil pan and use one of the main bearing bolts.

Not sure how long the hardware will need to be in order to mount Hans' adapter, the 'upper' bolts will have to be the thickness of the adapter hoop plus almost the depth of the holes in the block, plus a washer. The lower bolt holes in the block are unthreaded, so anything M12 will work.


If you were to use the Sunex stand as-is, its standoffs are 110 mm thick, so the only solution there is to buy a 3 foot section of M12 x 1.5 threaded rod and hacksaw it into 150 mm lengths:

Spun

Thank you sir!

hans14914

I want to double check my flange, and havent had a chance to get over to a plotter. Its too big for any of the printers I have normal access to. I think everything is good, but want to double check first. Will try and do it tonight. I have a couple jobs over at the machine shop now, so there is a bit of a backlog anyhow, its not really delaying the process.

Herman K

Hans

I'm waiting for your stand before I'm parting my Marine blue 88 any estimate on the delivery time? Just trying to plan when I should start

xschop

I have the BH dimensions on hand and the shaft concentric dims if you just want to machine a flat-plate and lathe out stand-offs.

hans14914

If you dont mind sending me your BH drawing, I can compare it to my drawings from the factory tool. Also happy to send you my drawings as a trade.

The reason the tool is designed the way it is, you can install/adjust clutch on the stand. I dont know if the standoff method would put too much strain on the welds or not. It would be much less expensive to fabricate.

Thanks
Hans

xschop

I mic'd everything within 0.001" and then converted to metric, and it all came out even mm's. PM your email I'll shoot the drawing over.

Spun

How are we looking?

Snowglobe

+1

hans14914

Talked to the shop today. They have been backlogged, still waiting on the quotes.

Spun

any luck moving up the list?

hans14914

It looks like I need to find another shop to get these done. My normal guys are backed up, and most of the other local people dont want to bend the arms.

I got a high quote from one my backup guys for $400/part but he wanted to just machine everything instead of using tubes.

I have a lead on a shop out of state. Hope to get drawings to them today or tomorrow.

Thanks
Hans