IcemanG17

$2240 for a 108mm bore block is cheap......thats with a customer supplied block right?

Carl Fausett

That is correct - customer supplied engine.

I can supply a core engine to rebuild for $800 if you would prefer.

I have already discovered that $2240 price will not last (another invoice came in on this build) - it will soon be $2895.00. Now that all the parts and labor is done, I know that $2895 price is reliable.

If someone is ready to pull the trigger at $2240 I will honor that price for another month.

Tony

Kinda wish i didnt Powder coat the block i had with a split cylinder...could have had a second life for some one.

Vilhuer

There is also many more than one GTS in the world which has dead original engine block. As 928 becomes more collectable it important to have matching numbers engine. Even without big bore some solution like this is needed in future. Hopefully it works in long run also.

Carl Fausett

As to that, if the scratches in the cylinder walls are 0.010 to 0.020" I''d recommend our Nikasil plating process. This will restore the bores to OEM and we can re-use the OEM pistons. It makes a nice engine, and is cheaper than going 0.030 over and buying all-new pistons. See post #3 of this thread.

If the cylinder walls are scratched deeper than that, I'd recommend our dry-sleeving process. We have the drywall sleeving iof the 928 block down to a science, and I could easily repair a GTS block with a badly damaged cylinder this way. We can go up to 104mm bore in dry sleeves. See post #2 of this thread.

Rob Edwards

How 'bout this GTS block, Carl?

This is one of those blocks that some day I will have repaired, in order to have the matching number block. But I'm worried about whether there's enough 'meat' left in the webbing for a sleeve repair.

Vilhuer

GTS blocks tend to have tower cracked all the way through to water area due to blown head gasket leaking water into cylinder and piston expanding. Sometime top inch is ok and crack is in middle of stroke. On others crack is all the way up to head gasket mounting surface. Bore wall is usually in surprisingly good condition. Dry sleeving is one option to fix this type of problem but block needs to be welded first and success rate on such repair isn't best possible. Wet wall repair might be better option as long as it works on long term.

Carl Fausett

I used to agree with welding cracks in 928 engines, but not any more. Even using the correct Alusil welding rod, the Alusil is a bear to weld, and although the weld fillet held up, the heat effected zone to the left and right of the fillet cracked. On rare occasion have I seen the Alusil NOT crack after the weld cools.

That block looks probably worse than it is, IMO Rob. Could be drysleeved and that would remove all the damage you see in the bores anyway.

BUT FIRST - before you spend the money, have the block Zyglo inspected for cracks.

You can download the instructions for the Zyglo here:
http://www.magnaflux.com/NewsDownloa...?EntryId=13046

Jim Devine

Rob- if you have the block cracked checked make them check the entire block. Back in the CanAm days we had a sleeveless Reynolds 390 alloy (same as 928) 510 Chevy Big Block block that had rod damage similar to yours. Even though nothing had hit the lifter areas they were minutely cracked due to the high silicone content of the block being brittle and the shock of the rod transferring through the whole block.
Best to be sure. Probably the best place to get it checked is at an FAA approved repair station at an airport. They won't pass it unless it's O.K.