CUJaysfan

I'm seriously thinking about trying to add something like this.

My 78 shark hates sitting (like most of yours do) - and unhooking and hooking up the battery is a real pain.

Has anyone thrown in a kill switch and has it solved this issue?

Advice appreciated.

Thanks.

James Bailey

It introduces more points of failure.... the float trickle charger route is a better option for most.

Ad0911

I tried that. I blew 2 of those before giving up. I think the electricalsystem draws more current while sitting than is nomal for a car.

rgs944

My battery kill switch is my center dome light. Let it sit for a few days and it works every time.

Whitesands

This is a thread on fitting a switch behind the tool tray.


https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=42434

I copied this with a good quality switch and its been fine.

Alan

Whilst its certainly possible - and I have done it and use it often, I do not use it to solve parasitic current issues - I think you need to sleuth that out if its that big of an issue.

May still make sense to have a switch for winter storage, doing maintenance or installation work etc but not really for routine daily use...

Alan

FREAKINHEAT

Someone needs to come up with a good solution for this. I have. Adrain and don't know how to find it.

Ad0911

Without having read precious threads on this subject I would suggest to measure the current flowing through all fuses by taking all of them out and measuring one by one the current on all positions, or perhaps by measuring the resistance on all fuse positions with the battery taken out and 12 V batterycable connected to ground.

Speedtoys

Was "fix it" the wrong solution?

I can park for 3wks, and fire right up with nothing abnormal going on, or die in a week with the sharktuner left plugged in.

jpitman2

Put a meter across battery earth lead and earth bolt, showing Amps - check first that your meter can handle the level - most meters only handle up to 0.2A over std connections. Put the meter where you can see it while working at the fuse panel. Pull 1 fuse at a time until the drain drops a lot - a small level is normal, that fuse is supplying the problem item.
I run a trickle charger direct to the battery poles via a 10A fuse , supplied via a waether proof socket under the license plate. This eway I can disconnect the ground lead to work on the car, but the battery stays on charge.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

Tony

Ive got one of those Hella cut of switches mounted right where the "wing nut: attaches conceled behind the tool holder in the rear hatch

Use it all the time!

Especially handy when i go on a long trip and the car is parked...or when im doing numerous electrical stuff like Im doing now. Like installing LEDs in the dome lights. You definitly want the battery disconnected when fiddling with that light assembly trying to get it in.
Switch on...switch off....switch on..switch off.

Imo000

My brother has an '89 Bentley Turbo R and is has a battery kills switch from the factory. It's in the trunk and is recommended if parked more than 3 days, to use it. Maybe RR got this right.

Alan

These days RR -> VW.... & Audi's also come this way as factory option on at least some models (not sure how they suggest yo use it...).They actually connect exactly the same way - ground strap & ground point and they use the same exact switch with a curved steel mounting & connection bracket

Seems awfuly inconvenient to me to plan to use this routinely. I consider I use mine a lot - e.g. I used it about 12 times today while working on the car - however its been probably 3+ months since the last time I used it...

Alan

Ethre

I was talking with Dean Fuller a while ago about these. Reckoned it would be pretty handy to have a key operated kill switch (like the one you show Tony) and install it directly to the rear of the parking brake handle. It would add a lot of extra (heavy) wire though. I've never had parasitic drain hit my battery, but he has been fighting it for a while

danglerb

The horror of condo life has me parking both 928's about a block away right now. Both hold a charge pretty well, but its unpredictable, and once with a fairly full charge on the battery one of the alarms started going off at 2am leading to a knock on my door by the local PD and me walking in the dark to disconnect the battery.

Solution;

Walmart sells a generic battery switch for $5. As is, not very useful with the clamp to the battery post, and 928 batteries buried down under the spare etc.

Take two wrenches and tighten the clamp for the battery post until bends as far as it will go. Buy a bolt the same size and thread as the ground clamp about 1.25" long, and use it to attach the clamp end sideways to the ground point the strap normally goes to. The bending you did earlier was so the switch has clearance to turn easily, if it doesn't, wrench on it some more to get clearance.

Do NOT try any bending when attached to the ground point, it is NOT a physically strong solid portion of the chassis, its thin sheet metal with a brass ground point attached to it somehow.

The other end of the switch has a post like a battery, but with a hole in it, tap it to match the ground strap wingnut or bolt, then attach the ground strap to the post end of the switch.

Done. They claim a quarter turn, but I do about 3 full rotations since I don't like meeting the night shift of the PD or walking to the car. So far works fine, but is NOT pretty or permanent.