Kevin in Atlanta

I am looking for detailed instructions with pictures ala Dwayne. Are there any available?

I did some searches and have what Luc mentioned below. I am curious whether I have to remove the clutch-pack. From what I read it seems to be no.

Remove shifter ****, boot, etc.
Remove exhaust.
Uncouple coupling on TT at both ends.
Remove securing hardware from front of TT.
Loosen securing hardware on rear of TT.
Loosen the two big bolts holding the transmission to the rear cross member.
Unhook the rear coupling.
Remove the four bolts at the front of the torque tube.
Remove the six bolts at the rear of the torque tube.

Place a cushioned jack under the front of the engine and put pressure on it to make contact. TT should slide down in front and hang a bit.

Remove rear hardware and prepare for a TT on your lap. You may have to apply some M.A.N. to the end of the TT or perhaps use a little leverage on the jack to position the engine just so.

Landseer

If you do it that way, and slide trans back, I'd also have a safety chain linking trans to the rear sway bar above it.

Uncoupling the TT bolts can be a challenge.
Top two in front require just the right combo of tools if you leave clutch in place.
Gotta break them loose, then wind them, with very little swing.



I found a funky tool that helped. One of those oddball ratchets where you can twist the cushioned handle to rotate the socket. If you remove that handle, the remaining hex shaft can chuck up into a cordless drill. Then you have a right angle socket drive to run the bolts in and out. (my air ratchet stuff, even quarter inch, was too bulky to fit in that space between clutch and top TT bolts)

dprantl

No such write-up that I know of, but it really is not that hard. The steps above are missing removing the exhaust heat shields and reinforcement, and also disconnecting the slave cylinder and removing the lower bellhousing cover. You do not need to remove the clutch, but some say it is easier that way. I didn't remove it. My craftsman 3/8" standard wrench with a 3" + 1" extension and a standard socket was just the right length to get at the top front two TT bolts. After you slide the transmission back a couple of inches and the front of the TT clears the bellhousing, you should tilt the whole assembly downwards and then prop the transmission in that position so it is easier to slide off/on the TT and there is less chance of the rear hollow driveshaft of being damaged. When I did it I held the rear of the TT with my hands and propped the front with my feet, then slid it out keeping it level with the transmission. It went back in the same way in reverse.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Landseer

Having done it 5 times on manuals using different methods, my choice is to lower the rear carrier.
Remove trans and TT as a unit.
Reinstall same, in reverse.

Same for automatic.

Only downside is need for alignment.

medipedicman

Kevin, we will be swapping the manual trans and TT from a parts car into the driver (MY79). There are no firm dates on it yet as my A.D.D. has me doing too many projects concurrently. A few local (ish) folks have offered to help. You are welcome to come up and pitch in or just record for posterity. I will be following Landseer's advice as closely as possible. There won't be a lot of RR going on but it might be useful knowledge for your project.

Kevin in Atlanta

Schedule permitting I would like to attend. I am in no rush to do the TT. Cam cover gaskets and oil pressure pins are next to be followed by top end refresh.

oups59

It is really not that bad. I did mine on my back with the car on jack stand

A second pair of hands is helpful when reinstalling the tube ...