porschevert

Does this look like powdercoating to you? Not to me either! My customer won't tell me who did it and the crazy price he paid, (and that's OK), but the REAL powdercoat shop I took these pieces to agreed! They weren't sure how you could get overspray like this with true +/- charged parts. They thought it looked like it was done with a rattle can from a hardware store. Some areas are shiny and others are dull. The original factory coating was also clearly visible in some areas because they didn't even strip the parts! My point here is: Make sure you use a good powdercoat shop, inspect examples of their work and don't pay more than $300 to $400 USD!

SeanR

Prices vary per locals Ray. I'd not expect a shop to charge $300.00 to $400.00 when it costs them that or more to have it done for them. As a shop owner I'd expect you to know this.

I won't divulge what it cost me to get an intake and covers done, but it is more than you have posted here.

Leon Speed

In Germany I paid 600 Euros for powder coating. They did a very thorough job and claim the most labor intensive was bead blasting all nooks and crannies and masking all holes, flanges and threads. I can believe that.

Lizard928

I have a good local guy that does awesome work. I drop the parts off greasy, and pick them up ready to go.

The odd time I need to clean a tiny bit of stuff out. But it's not much.

My cost is between 300-400

Mrmerlin

I hope that anyone thats had the parts PCd is still washing them a few times after the fact ,
with hot water and simple green and compressed air,
otherwise dont be surprised if blast media gets into the engine

pcar928fan

The REAL key as noted is that they clean the intake out better than they have ever cleaned ANYTHING IN THEIR LIVES, because if they don't you won't have a functional engine in about 300 miles. Ask those of us who have been around awhile how we know!

When you +/- charge a part the entire part is charged and when you fog the powder coating it will bind to any and ALL of that part where the power gets close enough to be attracted. The inside horns as well as the outside of the part.

The guy I use here in ATX is AWESOME (he is a former 928 owner and KNOWS the importance of clean up!) and I think $400 is about the cost for either a pair of cam covers or the intake...but don't get me lying about his pricing. To REALLY do it right is time consuming!

SMTCapeCod

^^^
Bright colors!

jheis

Ah yes.

Puce and Puke my two favorite colors!

17prospective buyer

...just paint them yourself with a high quality paint. PC is too much of a hassle. Also PC'ing is much hyped up IMO, too many people who think it's the holy grail of coatings, it's just a plastic.

rgs944

Thankfully my intake is in very good condition so I only needed to worry about the cam covers. I painted them myself to match the car color and they turned out good. Not as good as PC but for me I agree that PC was not worth the time and expense, and then you have to worry about if it was done right and all the blasting got cleaned out.

ROG100

Ben Genovese is the man here in TX - the quality is exceptional.
My GTS manifold and cam covers will be PC'd by him.
http://www.legendgarage.com/

I was a fan of painting but the silver faded. Once I had seen what Ben could do I was sold.

Kiln_Red

PC'ing is preferable on engine bay parts over painting, most of the time, because the PC'ing can go into places a paint gun *normally* can't. In other words, it is a more fault proof way of doing it. If it shows, paint it. If it doesn't or it is difficult to spray, PC it. That is my rule of thumb.

Jchiodi

I did my valve covers, outside intake runners, and just for good measure a set of alloys.

Wheels and intake, sprayed with hi-temp gunmetal wheel paint, then over that I clearcoated the sh@$ out of it. Valve covers i rattle canned, then clear over. I will post pics, but I think it looks pretty good. The hard part was highlighting the 32V etc. Used testor paint pens, not quite as good as i hoped, 5-10 feet looks pretty good.

17prospective buyer

I think it's a challenge to highlight the raised and/or sunken lettering on the intake/cam covers. Masking them off with tape is unrealistic. Since PlastiDip claims to peel off easily as soon as it gets to the tack point, why not paint the whole thing as usual with your paint, then when that has dried and cured properly, spray the whole thing with PlastiDip, then cut out and peel off the lettering, then paint those with a spray can with whatever color you want, then peel off the rest of the PlastiDip?

KenRudd

Timely Thread. Learning to PC.