dr bob

Dean--

If you have the option to move everything carefully into a clean work area, you'll avoid a lot of risk of contamination. When I see auto trans parts (or any other car parts actually) disassembled on a dirt floor, it curls the small amount of hair I have remaining on the back of my head. Just one dirt particle will ruin your work.

Dean_Fuller

Will clean up ASAP. Had a storm a few days ago and a wall unit blew over on the white car. Parts all over the place. Broke a couple quarts of oil I had. The rear rubber spoiler saved the car from damage.

Update...I do have the TT rebuilt now and ready to go back in. Waiting on a few seals for the trans to complete. Also got the oil pan seal and motor mounts changed ( have had the parts in my box for 4 years). That job is more work than the timing belt change. Really tuff on your back on the ground.

Will update with some pics soon. THANKS AGAIN to ALL that helped with the super bearings and clamp. Truly a God send for me right now.

the flyin' scotsman

take your time Dean.............you'll get there

Dean_Fuller

Trying to get this trans buttoned up today. I replaces several seals. A couple questions...

1) The cover plate does not want to drop in flush with the bell housing. Even after rotating the drum it comes within say 1/4" from being flush. Is there a trick to this?


2) If I came get this to flush up...what sealant should I use for the cover bolts? They look to haver had sealant on them when removes. Torque on those bolts?





BTW...I have removed the piece of sealant at bolt hole at 9:00. FYI

Dean_Fuller

Okay...finally got the pump / front to flush up.

What kind of sealant on the bolts? Torque values?

I have replaced Seals 1 , 3 , both 9 , 10 , 11 and 12.

ammonman

Are you sure you have the pump/B3 piston assembly oriented correctly relative to the rest of the trans? The fingers on the B3 piston are arranged to avoid the B1 band guide (the white plastic thing you see at 1:00 in your photo.) I know you said the K1 clutch pack and input shaft kept trying to fall out. It may be that the gear on the other end of that clutch/shaft assembly isn't meshed. This would prevent the pump from going down into the case due to the K1 clutch not being down in the case far enough. You can check this by taking a measurement from the face of the trans case where the pump mates up down to the radial bearing visible in your photo. This should be in the neighborhood of 123mm give or take. Use a straight edge to span across the face of the case to pump surface and then use a depth gauge to get the measurement.


If the measurement is significantly less than 123mm the K1 clutch or the gear set behind it isn't fully engaged where it should be. I had this issue when I did my pump reseal/B3 clutch rebuild. Once I had the clutch and gear set fully meshed the pump slipped right in. Be sure to cut the heads off a couple of spare bolts and use them as guide pins when inserting the pump back into the case. This keeps things nicely aligned and the pump goes straight into the case, reducing the chance of pinching the pump o-ring. Also be sure to pack the front bearing or bronze bushing in the front of the pump with Vaseline. This will prevent galling the bushing or bearing at startup until ATF if flowing again. For sealing the pump to case bolts I used Loctite PST pipe sealant. It is a non-hardening teflon sealant that is not affected by oil. Pump bolts get 10 ft/lbs.

Hope this helps.

Mike

Dean_Fuller

LOTS of good stuff there Mike....Thank you very much. I will check the dim tomorrow.

ammonman

Probably best to measure the dimension from the face to the front of the radial bearing and then measure the distance from the end of the pump housing to the pump gasket face. The difference should be 0.8mm.

The approx. 123mm in my previous post is the measurement from the mating surface on the case down to the K1 clutch pack WITHOUT the radial bearing and clearance shims in place. Without knowing the radial bearing dimension or how many shims were used to set the clearance in your trans I can't give a better "quick check" measurement.

Mike

Dean_Fuller

Getting there...TT bolted up. Torque Converter in. Hope to have it running in 2 or 3 days.