pevi

My 928 has been sent for painting, but unfortunately my painter has claimed that he can not provide perfect job if door window mouldings are not removed. I managed to remove all locks, mirrors, side mouldings, etc. But unfortunately door window mouldings are too difficult to me or at least I am pretty sure that I can not remove them without damaging them. The price of them is remarkable high.
If someone has been managed to remove them hints are highly appreciated.

AirtekHVAC

also interested....

Bilal928S4

I also need to know how to take these moldings off, without screwing them up.

linderpat

cueing Dean....3, 2 1

RET

The door window trim was the most challenging part of stripping the car for paint.

The interior of both doors had to be stripped and the glass removed to make access easier. The first outer trim piece to be removed is the small curved part at the lower forward corner. Both of mine came out fairly easily with some careful prying with a small screwdriver and a small plastic pry bar used for upholstery panel removal.

The next part removed was the upper trim. I used a thick rectangular piece of tough plastic (Lexan, I think) with sharp edges and a small hammer to carefully tap the upper trim pieces out. This was fairly straight farward and they came out without injury.

The lower trim pieces could not by tapped out as above simply because of the difficulty of access from the inside of the door. I tried to pry the lower trim piece out but laborious and time consuming attempts to do so were not fun and seemed like the process would end very very badly, so I modified one of the accessories of my cheap Harbor Freight slide hammer by milling it to fit around the lower edge of the molding on the inside of the door.

It would now engage the lowest interior edge of the trim at a convenient angle and allowed me to easily remove the trim without damage to it or the door. In far less time than than I had spent trying to pry one lower molding out, the lower trim moldings of both doors were removed. I would not try to remove the lower trim any other way.

I don't have any pictures of the slide hammer in use, but here is a picture of the modified part.

LT Texan

I used a piece of 1"x3" oak board cut with an angle and beat it out. The procedure was on the old mail list.

There's a picture in post #9

see picture in post 9

Ad0911

Some of you must have taken apart the inside of the door. This could help me because I want to replace the window guides with felt covering but can't remember where to put them could someone please indicate where thehould be? It's no. 20 in the drawing.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...-95/804-15.php

danglerb

Preserving rubber parts 30 years old for reuse to save money isn't on my agenda. Its a bite the bullet issue to me, new rubber whenever old comes out.

Didn't Roger find some new and cheaper window seals?

pevi

Thank you RET

If I understood correct, upper moulding should be removed outwards and lower one upwards.

Please confirm


Great LT Texan, wonderful pictures to support my work!

RET

Not exactly - all of the door window molding/trim (at least on my '89...) are retained on portions of the sheet metal of the door that are more-or-less parallel to the window glass. They have to be removed by moving them towards the center of the window opening (basically in a direction perpendicular to the length of the trim piece), so the upper trim would removed downwards, not outward.

It was not stated in my earlier post, but I removed all of the rubber seals and window channel before starting to remove the metal trim. They will be replaced with new.

The connection of all the window trim to the door is very obvious once the lower rubber seals and channel piece that runs over the top and sides of the glass are removed. These are usually hard and cracked and not worth saving anyway (and if they are not cracked or torn before you remove them, they will be when you are done....).

I used a hard plastic block with very sharply squared edges to remove the upper trim by firmly pressing an edge of the block into the crack between the door and the trim on the outside of the door and gently tapping the block with a small hammer. The angle of the block was not ideal as it was moved along the trim piece, but the upper trim came off easily and neither the paint nor the trim was damaged.

The slide hammer might have worked on the upper trim also, but I had not tried it. The lower trim was another story: there was no way to tap it upward from outside the door, and I could not get my hands, arms, and tools into the inside of the door to access the inner lip of the lower trim piece in order to tap it upwards.

LT Texan

The oak board with angled end worked for me.

On the bottom trim, put the point at the bottom outside of the trim and "gently" tap to work the trim up and off the door.

I had 2 or 3 coats of paint on mine so it wasn't gentle at all.

But the trim came off with no damage.

RET

Dan - My lower trim seemed as if it was bonded onto the door. I tried to pry it but was afraid of bending it beyond recognition, and prying from the inside started to deform the sheet metal of the door: it was stuck tightly.

Kiln_Red

All of the trim on the 928 are what we body/paint guys like to refer to as "made to fit." There aren't plastic clips and such holding the door trim on; just on the door panels. It isn't necessary to remove the door glass to remove the lock cylinders, handles, mirrors, trim, etc. On the trim, I like to use a plastic clip tool as a pry bar and then I smack it with a small rubber mallet to release the trim away from the door skin mating flanges. I do this fom the inside of the doors after the interior trim is removed from the door. If your car has original paint, the curved section of the outer trim up by the mirror should be riveted on. I use an 1/8" drill but to drill out the rivet.. Then you are good to go.

It was kind of your painter to point out that painting the doors without removing the trim wouldn't result in a durable paint job.

Dean_Fuller

This is spot on. The trim is on TIGHT! But with some time and patience it will pry off. If it bows a little you can fix that.

I still need to re attach the front angle piece that pop rivets on. You can not re pop rivet it as the rivets do no go all the way through the trim. I will glue mine back.

ROG100

And then add a pair of our lower window scraper seals for $130 the pair for the perfect finish