"garage find"
#31
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I would suspect that standing that long will have been hard on the CIS parts - congealed dried petrol residues will block many fine holes in there. Once you get fuel hoses replaced , pump and filter fixed, I would check the system and control pressures, and if bad, load some fuel treatment stuff into the tank, bridge the pump relay, and it let it run as long as you can to try to flush rubbish into the filter - you may get lucky and avoid a fuel distributor rebuild. There is a weir inside the tank that can make removing the gauge head difficult - mostly it will come out with wriggling in the end.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
#32
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I love how the answers to this forum track across the timelines of the world!! two answers from Australia and the USA just waking up!! I managed to very gently knock on a thin sleeved 10 socket to get just enough purchase to release the bolt so that I could detach the speedo lines and pull the whole intake out.
The fuel distributor intake had a clump of goo in it, but that dropped out once I gave it a knock, and the tiny strainer in there blew out okay, however the base of the FD where it slots down into the Mass air flow meter is layered with sticky varnish as are the mechanics in the MAF so I think a rebuild is in order.
One query is how the idle valve works, I know it is adjusted by using a long allen key, pressing down and then turning clockwise / anti clockwise, but when I examined mine, the smooth actuating end of the bolt seems to work on a dished fixing, with no provision to move anything... not making myself very clear, the pin end of the allen bolt you press in and twist is smooth, actuating on a smooth surface, I don't know therefore how movements clockwise etc are enabled?
I know, a picture paints a thousand words, will get one up tonight!!
The fuel distributor intake had a clump of goo in it, but that dropped out once I gave it a knock, and the tiny strainer in there blew out okay, however the base of the FD where it slots down into the Mass air flow meter is layered with sticky varnish as are the mechanics in the MAF so I think a rebuild is in order.
One query is how the idle valve works, I know it is adjusted by using a long allen key, pressing down and then turning clockwise / anti clockwise, but when I examined mine, the smooth actuating end of the bolt seems to work on a dished fixing, with no provision to move anything... not making myself very clear, the pin end of the allen bolt you press in and twist is smooth, actuating on a smooth surface, I don't know therefore how movements clockwise etc are enabled?
I know, a picture paints a thousand words, will get one up tonight!!
Last edited by mattylan; 11-27-2013 at 05:47 AM.
#33
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Thats not the idle control, its the mixture adjuster - VERY FINE , so try not to turn it !!! It changes the relationship between the arm that moves when air is sucked in, and the mixture control plunger inside the head. If you lift the head thing off, be very careful that the central plunger doesnt fall out - they are very easily damaged. Dig up some of the many explanations of CIS on the web and read them to see how that area works. When they are in good order, they are very very good! Just a little thirstier than later systems.
Idle control is a big screw head in front of the spider body.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k CIS.
Idle control is a big screw head in front of the spider body.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k CIS.
#34
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Apologies, that's what I meant,
my question is how does it change the relationship when the surfaces involved are both smooth, therefore beyond vertical pressure creating pressure on the receiving plate, twisting it left or right would not seem to "do" anything permanent, and from what I can see so far, the receiving plate has no mechanism of moving either????
Must get a picture up!!
my question is how does it change the relationship when the surfaces involved are both smooth, therefore beyond vertical pressure creating pressure on the receiving plate, twisting it left or right would not seem to "do" anything permanent, and from what I can see so far, the receiving plate has no mechanism of moving either????
Must get a picture up!!
#35
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and for those of you , who like me, see pictures and think holy sh*t, here is someone even more disturbed than me
Looks like the water connection on the left of shot has been braised at some point, gasket's weeping so it's coming off
Some of the fuel lines were as tight as hell
The fubared instrument pod circuit board
The infamous third cog!
Remains of the speedo
Fixing point of rear spoiler
Fried board
Mangled relays from fried board
This is what years of moisture left in a car can do to the metal surfaces
Even the loom wrap is not immune
Floor carpet removed to reveal this!
Why o why couldn't the car have been put away dry / window cracked / dehumidified!!!!
Looks like the water connection on the left of shot has been braised at some point, gasket's weeping so it's coming off
Some of the fuel lines were as tight as hell
The fubared instrument pod circuit board
The infamous third cog!
Remains of the speedo
Fixing point of rear spoiler
Fried board
Mangled relays from fried board
This is what years of moisture left in a car can do to the metal surfaces
Even the loom wrap is not immune
Floor carpet removed to reveal this!
Why o why couldn't the car have been put away dry / window cracked / dehumidified!!!!
#37
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More like $20K from $8K but in any case at the moment not worth restoring even if all work hours are free. If it were one of the first 11 preproduction cars made then maybe but not normal '80 MY.
#38
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Looks like you are $10K away from having a $5K car, sad to say.
The market for 928's is going wild. Our business is out the wazoooo.
Soon there will be no more $2k cars and they will be $10k cars and on and on.
Sean has cars being transported to him from all over the States and is booked solid into the new year.
Good times for the 928 - bad for those that want to buy cheap.
And you would be amazed at how many 928 owners have never heard of Rennlist.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#39
Drifting
20 years ago fresh out of College I rented a very big shop with 3 friends that had a bad roof.
It was almost always humid in there. Big puddles on the floor after a rain.
Looks like this car sat in the same kind of building for many years. Pity, it looks to have been cared for prior. People just don't put cars away correctly. Being a galvanized Porsche, this is pretty significant corrosion.
For what it's worth, i have restored cars that were Swiss cheese and much worse than this. Philadelphia area weather is similar to the UK and Pennsylvania uses salt in the Winter.
We did a 356B that a tree was growing through when we picked it up. It is beautiful now. Best to start with a solid dry car if possible but i know that these cars are scarce in the UK. A 356 is a much simpler car though, the wiring harness is about as complicated as a riding mower.
It can be done and done well but isn't ideal. I wish you luck with the restoration.
It was almost always humid in there. Big puddles on the floor after a rain.
Looks like this car sat in the same kind of building for many years. Pity, it looks to have been cared for prior. People just don't put cars away correctly. Being a galvanized Porsche, this is pretty significant corrosion.
For what it's worth, i have restored cars that were Swiss cheese and much worse than this. Philadelphia area weather is similar to the UK and Pennsylvania uses salt in the Winter.
We did a 356B that a tree was growing through when we picked it up. It is beautiful now. Best to start with a solid dry car if possible but i know that these cars are scarce in the UK. A 356 is a much simpler car though, the wiring harness is about as complicated as a riding mower.
It can be done and done well but isn't ideal. I wish you luck with the restoration.
#40
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So, last night I figured out how the mixture adjuster actually operates, the pin that can be pushed down that I thought was smooth actually has a very fine hex head, and the receiving "cup" has a hole in the bottom that allows the hex to engage. I still haven't fathomed out how this "reacts" with the flappy and therefore the running of the car. Everything in the seesaw seems to be tied down, ie there is no room for adjustment?
#42
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Great thread.....my car is in similar shape....the cosmetics are on hold while I sort the mechanicals....the worst part is also the most challenging, and rewarding.....figuring out how to get things apart, and then back together when the damn rusty bolts snap off!
Your thread and mine seem to be along the same course....but you are a little ahead of me....I work 14 hour days, so I don't get much shop time....
Did you get your fuel sender out? There's a trick to it....
Good luck, and keep posting!
Your thread and mine seem to be along the same course....but you are a little ahead of me....I work 14 hour days, so I don't get much shop time....
Did you get your fuel sender out? There's a trick to it....
Good luck, and keep posting!