WICruiser

I have been procrastinating for a while but plan to get to a major brake refurbish project in the near future.

I have new rotors, pads, and caliper rebuild kits already.

The plan is to pull, clean, paint, rebuild calipers, and reassemble changing brake fluid in the process.

I have read a number of threads regarding powder coat versus paint for the calipers and while I am still undecided I don't think you can provide any help there.

My question is what else am I likely to run into that may need to be replaced? Ideally I would like to plan ahead enough that I can work through this project without major delays due to lack of planning.

Similarly, are there other "while your at it" inspections or changes I should consider? I know I have sqweeks in the front suspension I need to investigate and plan to inspect the suspension in general.

Any insight would be appreciated.

ammonman

I would change the brake hoses and carefully inspect the pad wear sensors. By "rebuild kits" for the calipers do you mean just piston rebuild or did you include the damping sleeves?

I just did the GTS brakes on my S4 and went with VHT caliper paint. I am very pleased with the results so far. I would have the early calipers blasted with glass beads before painting to get a quality finish.

Mike

WICruiser

My caliper rebuild parts so far are limited to piston seals, I am not familiar with the damping sleeves?

I have bead blasting capability.

Thanks

brealytrent

like ammonman said, I'd check/replace the brake hoses as well.
I think the brakes on your 928 are the same single piston setup as on mine, so I assume the rebuild kits just include the piston seal and rubber sleeve and little teflon-like inserts for the rear, which should be all you need. I ended up using VHT paint on my front calipers and another brand on the rear (I forget), but they both seemed to do their job well. Also recommend blasting before painting.
As for things to check, I'd look at the upper balljoints in the front to see if the boots are split and in need of replacement, and also check the tie-rods for play.

ammonman

The guide sleeves are used on the "floating" style front brakes only. The rears are "sliding" calipers and don't use the guide sleeves. If your front calipers are the same type as the rears you don't have guide sleeves. If they are a different type single piston caliper then they most likely are the floating type that have the guide sleeves. Take a look at page 46-01 in the WSM.

Almost forgot, this is also a great time to re-pack your wheel bearings and renew the inner seals.

Mike

WICruiser

Thanks a lot guys. I plan to take my time and do it right (so to speak).

I will check the upper ball joint boots and plan to replace the rubber brake line while I am there.

I am not sure the sensors are connected, but will check them out also.

I have the WSM and Jim Morhouse's CD so between them and the resources here I don't anticipate running into anything that can not be handled.

Thanks again

Pfc. Parts

Hey Roger;

I'm doing the same refresh on an '85 auto and I wonder if you have any tips/experience to share, I imagine you're finished by now

I've completed the front, working on the back now. I got stopped yesterday by not having a 7/16ths flair wrench to get the rear brake lines off, which are being replaced with braided SS.

Is there a trick to getting the spring retainer clip over the new seals without tearing them? I haven't tried yet but it looks a bit gnarly.

Also, did you go with paint or powder? How did it work?

WICruiser

Sorry for the delayed response.

I went with powder coat.

I don't recall the spring retainer clip being a problem but it has been a while, if I can hit the recall button I will let you know.

fltechpilot

I just did a brake refresh on my 84. I'd recommend hitting the nut that attaches the hard line to the rubber hoses with penetrating oil for a few days before trying to break them free. I also scraped off some rust that had formed around the nut to allow the penetrating oil to penetrate better. One of mine still required heat to break free, but the others came free on their own. Can't imagine that would have been the case without the prep.

Pfc. Parts

Roger, it turns out the spring clip around the dust boot was trivial, another case of me having the screaming fantods over nothing.

I did get bit by the flare nut connecting the hard line to the flex hose on the rear passenger side, and as ftechpilot predicts, I had shot the nut with PB Blaster and let it sit for a couple days after discovering it was frozen (see my thread on flaring a hardline while still on the car from last week). I ended up breaking it free using a heat gun and vise grips but I did damage it. I was able to put it back together using a standard 7/16th's wrench but it looks ugly and I'm eventually going to have to replace that line.

Oh, and I ended up painting. I'd already painted the front calipers and I had paint left over. If I do it again I'll powdercoat.