Carl's solid motor mounts
10-19-2012, 05:15 PM
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
IIRC Greg Brown had seen numerous failures of the 944 blocks due to the solid mounting
the only way to solidly mount the engine was to also mount the trans axle solidly as well,
and have a fully mounted cage in the chassis to prevent flexing.
He didnt recommend them, for use in the 928
If you examine the mounts in question you will find that they dont mount to the engine like the rubber mounts did,
thereby reducing the the contact area for force to be distributed,
thus increasing the amount of force applied to the mounting arms of the block.
Good luck please post your results
link with pictures
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...QTO5AQ&cad=rja
the only way to solidly mount the engine was to also mount the trans axle solidly as well,
and have a fully mounted cage in the chassis to prevent flexing.
He didnt recommend them, for use in the 928
If you examine the mounts in question you will find that they dont mount to the engine like the rubber mounts did,
thereby reducing the the contact area for force to be distributed,
thus increasing the amount of force applied to the mounting arms of the block.
Good luck please post your results
link with pictures
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...QTO5AQ&cad=rja
In the pictures on that page you linked, they do not show the same as what's under my own car. I don't have that second set of unoccupied holes like his pictures show. I have an '82 with the OLD style mounts, with only 2 upper holes that mount into the block, much like Simard and Carl's solid mount designs.
If/when I get my hands on a set, they won't be permanently installed on my street car like all of you seem to be assuming.
10-19-2012, 05:21 PM
#18
Team Owner
please post some pictures of what your working on, thanks
10-19-2012, 10:39 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
I ran them in my car for about 18months until I tired of the noise.
If I tried again I think I'd shim them with cut up tires or something that would damp the worst of the vibration - resulting in a mid-level stiffness without the snap-the-mount concerns.
If I tried again I think I'd shim them with cut up tires or something that would damp the worst of the vibration - resulting in a mid-level stiffness without the snap-the-mount concerns.
10-20-2012, 02:32 PM
#20
Pro
Thread Starter
10-20-2012, 02:41 PM
#23
Looks like you are.
10-20-2012, 05:36 PM
#25
Team Owner
Thanks for the pictures
I have not seen the single bolt block mounts before.
It looks like it would not be a good idea for the adding the 84 or newer cross member as the newer motor mount pads would not be fully supported to the block.
The mounts you have look like they are done though.
It will be interesting to see where the pan sits after installing the solid mounts.
If you do consider installing the solid engine mounts, also consider swapping out the trans mounts to solids as well so the parts are less prone to flexing ( though i dont recommend adding the solid mounts)
The other issue I see is the corrosion on the girdle portion of the mount, That should be looked at ,as the corrosion could have weakened the mounting points on the girdle,
the girdle and the block are made from different alloys,
and the corrosion may be due to dissimilar metals in contact with each other ,
possibly indicating a corroded ground link.
I have not seen the single bolt block mounts before.
It looks like it would not be a good idea for the adding the 84 or newer cross member as the newer motor mount pads would not be fully supported to the block.
The mounts you have look like they are done though.
It will be interesting to see where the pan sits after installing the solid mounts.
If you do consider installing the solid engine mounts, also consider swapping out the trans mounts to solids as well so the parts are less prone to flexing ( though i dont recommend adding the solid mounts)
The other issue I see is the corrosion on the girdle portion of the mount, That should be looked at ,as the corrosion could have weakened the mounting points on the girdle,
the girdle and the block are made from different alloys,
and the corrosion may be due to dissimilar metals in contact with each other ,
possibly indicating a corroded ground link.
10-20-2012, 05:43 PM
#26
Nordschleife Master
edit: DOH - I was failing at reading too.. you have an '82, and thus the early style of engine mounts. Disregard all I wrote below, as I was talking about the later kind - altho' I'll leave it there for people who find this thread using search.
They're all assuming you mean the solid metal ones Carl sells (used to sell?).
Reads to me like you're talking about the solid rubber ones he has on his website?
Personally, I prefer the Anchor solid rubber ones to the Volvo hydraulics (I have a set of each on my 928's) - the volvo ones are taller than the stock Porsche ones, which makes the engine sit higher, and causes annoying issues like not quite enough space for the air intake tubes to pass under the strut brace.
The trouble is getting actual solid rubber ones got tricky a couple of years ago. If Carl will guarantee his are solid rubber and not from the "random" Anchor part number which can give any combination of: solid, hydraulic-filled, empty-hydraulic-filled-which-collapse then by all means buy them.
I've already resolved to just buy new ones from Porsche next time I'm that far into my '89 (I removed solid rubber ones from it and fitted Volvo ones - which I've been regretting ever since).
The Anchor solid rubber mounts are shorter than Porsche mounts - so need to be shimmed downwards using thick M12 washers (new Porsche engine mounts are 78.6mm tall between the two supporting surfaces).
They're all assuming you mean the solid metal ones Carl sells (used to sell?).
Reads to me like you're talking about the solid rubber ones he has on his website?
Personally, I prefer the Anchor solid rubber ones to the Volvo hydraulics (I have a set of each on my 928's) - the volvo ones are taller than the stock Porsche ones, which makes the engine sit higher, and causes annoying issues like not quite enough space for the air intake tubes to pass under the strut brace.
The trouble is getting actual solid rubber ones got tricky a couple of years ago. If Carl will guarantee his are solid rubber and not from the "random" Anchor part number which can give any combination of: solid, hydraulic-filled, empty-hydraulic-filled-which-collapse then by all means buy them.
I've already resolved to just buy new ones from Porsche next time I'm that far into my '89 (I removed solid rubber ones from it and fitted Volvo ones - which I've been regretting ever since).
The Anchor solid rubber mounts are shorter than Porsche mounts - so need to be shimmed downwards using thick M12 washers (new Porsche engine mounts are 78.6mm tall between the two supporting surfaces).
10-20-2012, 06:50 PM
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for the pictures
I have not seen the single bolt block mounts before.
It looks like it would not be a good idea for the adding the 84 or newer cross member as the newer motor mount pads would not be fully supported to the block.
The mounts you have look like they are done though.
It will be interesting to see where the pan sits after installing the solid mounts.
If you do consider installing the solid engine mounts, also consider swapping out the trans mounts to solids as well so the parts are less prone to flexing ( though i dont recommend adding the solid mounts)
The other issue I see is the corrosion on the girdle portion of the mount, That should be looked at ,as the corrosion could have weakened the mounting points on the girdle,
the girdle and the block are made from different alloys,
and the corrosion may be due to dissimilar metals in contact with each other ,
possibly indicating a corroded ground link.
I have not seen the single bolt block mounts before.
It looks like it would not be a good idea for the adding the 84 or newer cross member as the newer motor mount pads would not be fully supported to the block.
The mounts you have look like they are done though.
It will be interesting to see where the pan sits after installing the solid mounts.
If you do consider installing the solid engine mounts, also consider swapping out the trans mounts to solids as well so the parts are less prone to flexing ( though i dont recommend adding the solid mounts)
The other issue I see is the corrosion on the girdle portion of the mount, That should be looked at ,as the corrosion could have weakened the mounting points on the girdle,
the girdle and the block are made from different alloys,
and the corrosion may be due to dissimilar metals in contact with each other ,
possibly indicating a corroded ground link.
Thank you for pointing out the corrosion issue. I was unaware that a bad ground strap could/causes this. *goes back out to shop to replace*
10-22-2012, 01:53 AM
#28
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Solid aluminum motor mounts
I have them on the car now for 7,500 miles and its quiet to me without ever touching the motor mounts again. We did a rebuilt motor with the installation of the Jaeger speedmount plus solid motor mounts from Carls. The speedmount will dampened the vibrations. I like the combinations...
10-23-2012, 10:29 PM
#30
Captain Obvious
Super User
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