Can a paint job total a 928?
10-15-2012, 06:46 PM
#16
Drifting
Here's how to look at it.
You can go out and buy a new Chevy or Ford or whatever for $20.000, drive it for five years and it is worth $5,000. People don't think of that as a loss, they think of it as the normal cost of driving a car.
Now, you can go out and buy an old 928 for $5,000 and over the next five years spend $15,000 on repairs and upgrades at which point you have a 928 worth $5,000.
The difference? You got to drive a Porsche for five years instead of a Chevy.
So why do we think of one as the normal cost of car ownership, and the other as a tragic cost and loss of value?
You can go out and buy a new Chevy or Ford or whatever for $20.000, drive it for five years and it is worth $5,000. People don't think of that as a loss, they think of it as the normal cost of driving a car.
Now, you can go out and buy an old 928 for $5,000 and over the next five years spend $15,000 on repairs and upgrades at which point you have a 928 worth $5,000.
The difference? You got to drive a Porsche for five years instead of a Chevy.
So why do we think of one as the normal cost of car ownership, and the other as a tragic cost and loss of value?
10-15-2012, 07:07 PM
#17
Nordschleife Master
Most expensive part of a 928 to replace is the original paint, and its one of the cheapest aspects of buying a used 928. Unless you have money to burn, or no issues with lesser quality paint, its much cheaper to start with a 928 that has acceptable paint or paint that can be made acceptable without a full respray.
10-15-2012, 08:01 PM
#19
Drifting
Some general rules in my way of looking at it;
Don't buy a 928 with the prospect of ever having to sell it.
Don't buy a 928 as your basic transportation.
Don't sweat parts too much as they should last another 20+ years.
Don't buy a pre-85 928 unless a super low mile barn find. (beautiful but power too low)
Don't buy a beater.
So that may keep some people from getting in, but those same people are probably going to have a very tough time of ownership unless they are very resourceful with tools and time. These are pricey toys and with gas the way it is, it just gets worse and worse.
Don't buy a 928 with the prospect of ever having to sell it.
Don't buy a 928 as your basic transportation.
Don't sweat parts too much as they should last another 20+ years.
Don't buy a pre-85 928 unless a super low mile barn find. (beautiful but power too low)
Don't buy a beater.
So that may keep some people from getting in, but those same people are probably going to have a very tough time of ownership unless they are very resourceful with tools and time. These are pricey toys and with gas the way it is, it just gets worse and worse.
10-15-2012, 08:10 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
With you on all but point 4.
Pre-85 is superior in many ways to 85-87.
Charlie captures it well.
Drive them with pride no matter how the paint looks!
Pre-85 is superior in many ways to 85-87.
Charlie captures it well.
Drive them with pride no matter how the paint looks!
10-15-2012, 08:16 PM
#22
Drifting
The S model is the best looking imo and yes the non-interference factor of 84 and before (euro too depending) is nice but shouldn't be a big deal if well maintained. What else am I missing between an 82 and an 86?
10-15-2012, 08:29 PM
#23
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10-15-2012, 08:50 PM
#24
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Missing? That peak HP isn't a key factor for many of us.
V8, esp. w/ 5 speed, is more that enough for fun even if 240 hp.
How is the diff between 240 and 288 such a big deal?
Simplicity of the 16V is far-superior to the 32V complexity, parts cost and difficulty to work on.
I'd argue that pre-S shape form is best, S worst with that tacky rubber rear lip. Breaks the lines.
Speaking of lines, how, Santa, do you represent 928 parts selling for X years, yet run with frayed original fuel line on verge of failure, then advocate that the gold standard is the only path forward.?
Guess we are all an eccentric bunch, in our own ways.
V8, esp. w/ 5 speed, is more that enough for fun even if 240 hp.
How is the diff between 240 and 288 such a big deal?
Simplicity of the 16V is far-superior to the 32V complexity, parts cost and difficulty to work on.
I'd argue that pre-S shape form is best, S worst with that tacky rubber rear lip. Breaks the lines.
Speaking of lines, how, Santa, do you represent 928 parts selling for X years, yet run with frayed original fuel line on verge of failure, then advocate that the gold standard is the only path forward.?
Guess we are all an eccentric bunch, in our own ways.
10-15-2012, 08:58 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Spend the money on: reliability first, interior second, external appearance last.
Rationale:
1) I want to be able to drive the car without worry.
2) I see the car from the inside, not the outside. I care about the place I spend thousands of miles.
3) I drive a Porsche to have a Porsche to drive, not to show anybody else that I have a Porsche. Why should I care what others think - they're behind me anyway?
Rationale:
1) I want to be able to drive the car without worry.
2) I see the car from the inside, not the outside. I care about the place I spend thousands of miles.
3) I drive a Porsche to have a Porsche to drive, not to show anybody else that I have a Porsche. Why should I care what others think - they're behind me anyway?
10-15-2012, 09:14 PM
#26
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For the most part I was not too concerned if it burned, cheap car easily replaced I have a spare complete car in the garage and know where to find parts should I need but was going to let a POC club member drive my car which he did this weekend and since he had a Cayman catch on fire and do about 30 K of damage I felt it was time to do the hoses just so HE did not feel bad if it burned.....then he possibly was too agressive with the shifting and I now have a coupler issue which should not be a big deal. But yes I am eccentric and proud of it 
.
.Missing? That peak HP isn't a key factor for many of us.
V8, esp. w/ 5 speed, is more that enough for fun even if 240 hp.
How is the diff between 240 and 288 such a big deal?
Simplicity of the 16V is far-superior to the 32V complexity, parts cost and difficulty to work on.
I'd argue that pre-S shape form is best, S worst with that tacky rubber rear lip. Breaks the lines.
Speaking of lines, how, Santa, do you represent 928 parts selling for X years, yet run with frayed original fuel line on verge of failure, then advocate that the gold standard is the only path forward.?
Guess we are all an eccentric bunch, in our own ways.
V8, esp. w/ 5 speed, is more that enough for fun even if 240 hp.
How is the diff between 240 and 288 such a big deal?
Simplicity of the 16V is far-superior to the 32V complexity, parts cost and difficulty to work on.
I'd argue that pre-S shape form is best, S worst with that tacky rubber rear lip. Breaks the lines.
Speaking of lines, how, Santa, do you represent 928 parts selling for X years, yet run with frayed original fuel line on verge of failure, then advocate that the gold standard is the only path forward.?
Guess we are all an eccentric bunch, in our own ways.
10-15-2012, 10:16 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
My 83 S Euro - bought 2001, A$14k. Not running well, fair paint, middling interior, but very bad seats - FULL white leather interior.
Small sums ($100s) spent getting it running well, belt, WP etc. Maybe $1k
Ship back to Oz from Saudi, ~$2k - insured for $20, sight unseen.
Repaint in white , to a level I call one notch below concours, $7k.
Seats recovered in leather, $2k
Remainder of interior refurbed by a specialist $4k
Wheels stripped and repainted $1k
Insurance cover upped to $26k, sight unseen again.
Total $31k + man hours.
Market value - IMHO, $20k absolute tops. See P110 of the Brian Long book - Mr Long and I both think this is my car, but I am biased of course.
Am I worried - not a bit. Still has GREAT Smiles per Mile.
It can be a very hard thing to consider, whether or not its sensible to keep putting $ in to it, but not everybody sees these things the same way. Hopefully everybody does some irrational things in their life, or things would be very boring.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
Small sums ($100s) spent getting it running well, belt, WP etc. Maybe $1k
Ship back to Oz from Saudi, ~$2k - insured for $20, sight unseen.
Repaint in white , to a level I call one notch below concours, $7k.
Seats recovered in leather, $2k
Remainder of interior refurbed by a specialist $4k
Wheels stripped and repainted $1k
Insurance cover upped to $26k, sight unseen again.
Total $31k + man hours.
Market value - IMHO, $20k absolute tops. See P110 of the Brian Long book - Mr Long and I both think this is my car, but I am biased of course.
Am I worried - not a bit. Still has GREAT Smiles per Mile.
It can be a very hard thing to consider, whether or not its sensible to keep putting $ in to it, but not everybody sees these things the same way. Hopefully everybody does some irrational things in their life, or things would be very boring.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
10-15-2012, 11:46 PM
#28
Drifting
Missing? That peak HP isn't a key factor for many of us.
V8, esp. w/ 5 speed, is more that enough for fun even if 240 hp.
How is the diff between 240 and 288 such a big deal?
Simplicity of the 16V is far-superior to the 32V complexity, parts cost and difficulty to work on.
I'd argue that pre-S shape form is best, S worst with that tacky rubber rear lip. Breaks the lines.
V8, esp. w/ 5 speed, is more that enough for fun even if 240 hp.
How is the diff between 240 and 288 such a big deal?
Simplicity of the 16V is far-superior to the 32V complexity, parts cost and difficulty to work on.
I'd argue that pre-S shape form is best, S worst with that tacky rubber rear lip. Breaks the lines.
I like the lip a lot, kinda amazing material and finishes the car off well.
We are an eccentric bunch (and likewise proud), just look at your sig.
10-16-2012, 12:20 AM
#29
Burning Brakes
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WOW, thought this would bring a lot of input. And good input at that!! Basically what I was thinking and feeling.
Pretty much says it all.
I like that!! Truth is I DO love the car and the attention that goes with it. More to myself than any thing. Even in it's current condition, I still get asked at stop lights what it is and what year. That goes a long way.
Good news is I want it painted the same color, so that should save a few bucks and be easier. Bad news is it IS my DD. I guess it's the reliability factor that has me concerned. Either way, I never intended to sell the car or make any money on it. I just didnt know where that "line" was that made it............... senseable (?)............. to keep going forward.
Again, AWESOME thoughts people!! Thank you!!!
Spend the money on: reliability first, interior second, external appearance last.
Rationale:
1) I want to be able to drive the car without worry.
2) I see the car from the inside, not the outside. I care about the place I spend thousands of miles.
3) I drive a Porsche to have a Porsche to drive, not to show anybody else that I have a Porsche. Why should I care what others think - they're behind me anyway?
Rationale:
1) I want to be able to drive the car without worry.
2) I see the car from the inside, not the outside. I care about the place I spend thousands of miles.
3) I drive a Porsche to have a Porsche to drive, not to show anybody else that I have a Porsche. Why should I care what others think - they're behind me anyway?
The difference? You got to drive a Porsche for five years instead of a Chevy.
Good news is I want it painted the same color, so that should save a few bucks and be easier. Bad news is it IS my DD. I guess it's the reliability factor that has me concerned. Either way, I never intended to sell the car or make any money on it. I just didnt know where that "line" was that made it............... senseable (?)............. to keep going forward.
Again, AWESOME thoughts people!! Thank you!!!
10-16-2012, 12:28 AM
#30
Burning Brakes
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Ahh, the famous clunk, from the passenger side seems to come from somewhere near the shock towers?
I think I have that and I think I know why.
I think its the rear x-member assembly. Its difficult to get the torque values accurately set since the weight of the transmission loads the bolts, and if its on a lift the weight of the suspension can load the bolts. I think the fix for that (if its the one I have heard) is to slightly jack the rear xmember and transmission (preload) and then torque the x-member bolts. Have you tried that ?
I think I have that and I think I know why.
I think its the rear x-member assembly. Its difficult to get the torque values accurately set since the weight of the transmission loads the bolts, and if its on a lift the weight of the suspension can load the bolts. I think the fix for that (if its the one I have heard) is to slightly jack the rear xmember and transmission (preload) and then torque the x-member bolts. Have you tried that ?