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Old 10-13-2012, 10:56 PM
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euro trash
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Default Cold Starts

Now that the weather is getting quite a bit cooler I have noticed my 928 is taking a real long time to adapt. Normally, in the summer, on a fresh start the idle is quite low, but rises in a few minutes, then it takes about 15 minutes or so and the car temperature gauge hits its area and the idle smooths out around 900. Does this sound normal?

Now, with the cold weather for those 15 minutes, it is starting really rough and violently bucks and shakes like Elvis down the road. Is there a sensor and where exactly is it located. Also how to test if it needs replacement, maybe with a meter...

Thank you very much.
Old 10-13-2012, 11:28 PM
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mickster
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Originally Posted by euro trash
Now that the weather is getting quite a bit cooler I have noticed my 928 is taking a real long time to adapt. Normally, in the summer, on a fresh start the idle is quite low, but rises in a few minutes, then it takes about 15 minutes or so and the car temperature gauge hits its area and the idle smooths out around 900. Does this sound normal?

Now, with the cold weather for those 15 minutes, it is starting really rough and violently bucks and shakes like Elvis down the road. Is there a sensor and where exactly is it located. Also how to test if it needs replacement, maybe with a meter...

Thank you very much.
Cold Start Valve for one...not sure on a Euro how it is configured.
Old 10-14-2012, 12:55 AM
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euro trash
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https://rennlist.com/forums/279890-post4.html

cold start valve function is the enitial shot of fuel to start cold engine. once you start the warm up regulator can take up the slack in so far as running a richer mixture during cold engine warm up. (cold start enrichment). the cold start valve is run by the thermo time switch, this temp sensor regulates the time the cold start valve stays open or turns on at all. tha cold start enrichment sets a lower fuel control presure at the fuel distributor allowing injectors to run richer, as the engine heats and the electrical signal to the warm up regulator warms it, the control presure increases to lean the fuel system to run with the warmer temps. O2 sensor cars had another temp sensor that controled when the lambda seystem would start. alot of the sensors were set too warm and were allowed to work on a cold engine on a warm day. this caused hesitations and poor proformance. a bad cold start valve causes longer cranking time and no start at all in cold weather. a bad warm up regulator will give same complaints as o2 circut falty but lasts longer. a fuel presure guage is the best way to diagnose fuel issues on a cis system. a noid lite for bosch injection is also a good tool. on the electrical side the most common issue is either the thermo time switch or the power sorce. many times on these systems the power sourse is tied in as a secondary circut on a relay such as fuel pump or lambda relays. so part of the relay works and another doesnt, hard to find problem at times but not uncommon.
It seems the cold start valve is run by the thermo time switch which only comes on for a few seconds when the car is first started.

Is the warm up regulator something that should be checked, thanks for suggestions.
Old 10-14-2012, 11:21 AM
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Luis_M
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The WUR is easy to check, but you'll need a CIS test gauge set. Basically its a pressure gauge on a hose with a stop-**** to isolate the inlet side and gauge from the outlet side. You connect it between the inlet line to the WUR and the WUR itself, and measure control pressure with the valve open (allowing flow to the WUR) and system pressure with the valve closed (blocking flow to the WUR). The control pressure is what the WUR manages, and this should rise as the car heats up. The procedure and correct pressure values are well documented in the WSM.

Your symptoms could go along with a gummed up WUR, which would result in a leaner than desired mix during warm-up. But, also, your idle should be higher at start-up and then ease down over a few minutes to 750ish so your auxiliary air regulator could also be stuck. 900 idle suggests a vacuum leak and/or misadjusted idle on throttle body.
Old 10-14-2012, 03:05 PM
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Jadz928
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Where's you idle set? IIRC it's 800 +-50
Old 10-15-2012, 06:58 AM
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tilac999
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If your car starts when cold, it's not the cold start injector. You have a CIS/K-Jet car so you need to check the sensor that talks to the WUR and tells it to run rich when cold. Anyone with CIS know where it it located?
Old 10-15-2012, 07:38 PM
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The device the makes it run rich when cold is the WUR. For that, he'll need to hook up a pressure guage to assess cold pressure.
Old 10-15-2012, 07:52 PM
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Doesn't a temp sensor come into play with the WUR?
Old 10-16-2012, 12:42 PM
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The temp sensor is actually a metal strip inside the WUR housing. I gutted and rebuilt mine a couple of years ago. You'll need the test gauge, especially if you are thinking about taking it apart. If it checks out with the gauge, though, your problem is elsewhere...

1981 928S Euro 5sp



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