Bushing Change - Tranny Drop
#1
Bushing Change - Tranny Drop
So....after all the adventures with my 928, apparently i have a bushing that needs to be changed and that needs the tranny to be dropped. Seeing as I don't want to pay my Alexandria, VA shop over $1000 to do this, I'm seeking help in the all knowing forum of Rennlist. Any advice on how to do this without a) losing my life, and b) without seriously injuring myself?
I'm a patient individual seeking only companionship and instruction!
Attractive single blondes or brunettes are welcome to help
I'm a patient individual seeking only companionship and instruction!
Attractive single blondes or brunettes are welcome to help
#3
Reverse bushing replacement
Wow I did skip over a lot of info in that last post. Woops.
The car is a '79 928, and apparently the reverse bushing and set screw are worn out. The shop said on the quote "Need to remove and replace rear axles and remove transmission for access to shift shaft and linkage control bushings."
Parts - Shift linkage w/ bushing assembly
The car is a '79 928, and apparently the reverse bushing and set screw are worn out. The shop said on the quote "Need to remove and replace rear axles and remove transmission for access to shift shaft and linkage control bushings."
Parts - Shift linkage w/ bushing assembly
#5
If you're talking about the rear shift coupler bushings (and the rear coupler set screw) the transmission absolutely doesn't need to come out. You can push out the big pin in the rear coupler and then replace the bushings in situ (I think the factory plastic bushings are available, as are delrin and brass replacements ).
Did the shop try to replace it already? I suppose it's possible they they managed to FUBAR the setscrew trying to get it out without heating it first to release the loctite holding it in. In which case, the worst case is that the old coupler screw needs to be drilled out, I think a right hand drill with a short bit would fit up in there (?)
Here's the rear coupler (and its setscrew, backed almost completely out), for reference. The bushings shown here are brass.
Did the shop try to replace it already? I suppose it's possible they they managed to FUBAR the setscrew trying to get it out without heating it first to release the loctite holding it in. In which case, the worst case is that the old coupler screw needs to be drilled out, I think a right hand drill with a short bit would fit up in there (?)
Here's the rear coupler (and its setscrew, backed almost completely out), for reference. The bushings shown here are brass.