Landseer

I've reinvigorated a number of these cars now and watched countless others do it on Rennlist.

Clean all grounds (maleficio points-out two important ones for ljet), bat leads, and key connectors, polish the CE panel, re-fuse it, buy and install new injection, afm and fuel pump relays, look for damaged connectors in engine bay, replace Temp II & temp/time, don't fiddle with green wire connectors unless already broken, replace intake boots and fuel lines and injector rubber seals, use a noid light to insure injectors fire. Ensure the rotor button is clean and the distributor cap is ok. Check timing at TDC with a properly oriented harmonic balancer and make sure timing gears have;nt been flipped over either (seriously). These are basic maintenance points and expendable wear items that must be addressed in order to have a reliable car.

After that point you can troubleshoot. Heck, its not even worth trying to start them before that stuff is done.

Before that, doesn't seem to matter how many experts weigh-in with lists of ohm values. Too many variables. Get a known-stable base first.

Kalspeed

Thanks for the advice

95% of your recommendations have been already done.

Yanked the air pump fittings which were hiding the forward valve cover ground (under the air diverter). Don't need the air pump anyways as I deleted the cat.

Temp II was tested in spec, jumper nor resistor created a non-start mode.

Next step def to clean (ran out of desire today) the grounds on the valve cover, reconnect, and test the FPR...if need be I will just replace all with new..will let all know the outcome tomorrow..thanks all

Landseer

Do it all, replace the sensors, moot til then.

Maleficio

A bad thermotime switch will prevent the cold-start injector from firing, and will prevent the car from starting. Can't recall if you've looked at this. Also, just because a sensor checks good doesn't mean it's wires are good. Verify all wires in question by measuring resistance end to end with a multimeter.

Landseer

Doesn't work or overfeeds?

Maleficio

Good question. I would assume it doesn't work because solenoids and relays are energized into the closed position, and open (not flowing) when de-energized. I disconnected mine just see if it would start after it was good and warm, it wouldn't light off.

Kalspeed

Cleaned the grounds on the valve cover...still no start..will test the FPR's tomorrow

If we can pinpoint the problem...If I disconnect the electrical plug to the AFM..she starts, but in open loop overly rich.

So should eliminate fuel pump or fuel injection problem..correct?

So a sensor or something in the loop of the L-Jet is causing a start, run 2 seconds, the die? Time-temp and cold start injector working?

Thanks for all the help, I will push forward.....................

Maleficio

The two-second run then stall is exactly what mine did. That's your cold start valve working properly.

My fix was a loose ground for the injectors at the valve cover. I say you may still have a bad ground. You should verify that ground wire by going to your LH connector, finding the ground pin, and touch your meter leads to the pin and to any ground around you. You should see continuity. But that doesn't verify load-carrying capability.

After that, spray a lot of starting fluid into the intake with the AFM connected, start it, while running, work the AFM harness by hand to induce failure, do the same with the injector ground wire. Induce failure by working your harnesses.

Landseer

Guys, I really don't think the starting fluid is the right path with these engines. Many warnings have been issued on this topic here.

If all the other maintenance stuff has been done, and you have gasoline, try this.

Bridge the alarm at the Zplug, then jumper all three relays at once. AFM, fuel and injection (this with a 3 ended wire).

You can remove an injector plug, pick one, and connect a noid light in its place.

Then try starting. Let us know what happens!

Depending on the outcome, you might need to check fuel volume and you might have clogged fuel filter, blockage at fuel strainer or clogged injectors. Or a number of other root causes. There is documentation in the special CD set that describes the approach to troubleshooting if the suggested approaches don't work.

Kalspeed

Thanks, I will try your recommendation tomorrow....and report back

btw I lived in Hampton Roads area (Newport News) when I lived there in the 90's..was stationed at Eustis,, entire state is beautiful

Maleficio

However you choose to get your engine idling, work your suspected harnesses and wires to induce failure. I prefer starting fluid because I can plug everything up as normal.

Kalspeed

Landseer. if I disconnect the AFM plug, the car runs very rich. So how would the injectors be clogged, filter etc? if she is running, seems to me a computer management issue

Maleficio

Your AFM may be internally shorted.

Maleficio

You can open it up and clean it out.

Maleficio

Also, your AFM connector or jack may have a bent pin touching another pin.