Thanks after installing Brian dotys tranny in his car the feel of the accomplishment feeling Is making me keep going and eager to learn

 

I think he has turned around!

 

Check the p/no on the gasket - MB updated it some years ago, but Porsche kits still commonly include the superseded version, which is prone to splitting at one of the bolt holes, and leaking big time. Discovered by Tails some time ago " MB changed the part no from 126 271 10 80 to 126 271 11 80" in 1994....
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

 

If you can't wait until you get a 1/4" torque wrench, snug the bolts with two fingers on a small 1/4" ratchet.

 

Or all fingers on a deep socket with no ratchet. OK to clean the socket and wash the ATF off your hands first. 6lbs/ft is just not that much. In this case, it's enough to make sure that the gasket is in continuous contact with the trans case, and not much more.

The rubber trans sump gasket is amazingly soft and seals amazingly well so long as the pressure is even and the steel oil sump is straight. That amazingly soft gasket doesn't tolerate so much extra tension, especially uneven tension, on the six bolts that hold it on. I often wonder what folks do before they report that the pan itself is warped; with the gentle tension required to get a seal, I just can't imagine going deep enough to actually bend the pan. But-- I have watched 'experts' in service bays use an air ratchet to spin AT sump bolts up into place, then grab a torque wrench, put it on bolts, turn each already-overtorqued bolt 'til the wrench clicks, plus a little more just to be sure, then sign off on the fact that bolts were "torqued".

I have a spiffy but now ancient Blue Point air ratchet that is limited to 35 lbs/feet of torque. Theory is that I shouldn't use it on anything less than 10mm or 3/8" bolts. That's 10mm shank diameter, not the size of the bolt head. Also have a great C-P 3/8-drive air ratchet that makes in excess of 75 lbs/ft. Great for disassembly, but you have to be really careful using either of them to reassemble things. Long-handled ratchets also have an important place in my toolbox, but they don't see much use in the tightening direction.

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Did some body straightening on my dad's early-90's Volvo wagon today. Pulled the front bumper off and straightened the beam, then reassembled the rubber to it. Pulled a fender off too, straightened it and reinstalled. I decided to use an air ratchet for the disassembly. First time I'd had one out in a long time. It is a real time-saver. Short-handled flexi ratchet and the torque wrench for all the righty-tighty duty putting it back together though.