Charley B

I'm in the middle of repacking my CV joints and replacing the boots. How do I remove the cap off the end of the inner CV joint?

jpitman2

With a dead blow, or soft hammer. Usually not difficult to remove..either side...
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

NoVector

I used a flat-head screwdriver and a hammer and tapped it off around the edges. The kit from 928 Intl came with new end caps. FWIW, Dwayne has an excellent write-up at: http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/boot.htm

Charley B

Thanks. I've read through Dwaynes procedure a few times but his write is for the older style axles using gaskets instead of caps. Still very helpful.

Bertrand Daoust

+1 for the flat-head screwdriver and a hammer.
Just tapped it off all around the edges.

Did mine 3 weeks ago and didn't have any problem.

To put the new one, I used 2 bolts, washers and nuts to "press" it in.
One each side, moving one hole at a time.

Good luck.

Charley B

Thanks.

I just hope I can get all the pieces back together correctly.

IcemanG17

but its much more fun taking it apart!!!!!!

Mrmerlin

ref the WSM as it has pictures and there is a certain order for the CV joint to function correctly

Charley B

Thanks Stan. I'm trying to follow it closely but I'm a little hesitant about this verbiage.

"NOTE (WSM)
Groove of ball hub and running around periphery of
outside diameter on joint must face end of axle"

Am I correct in assuming by periphery groove they are referring to the groove that the cap fits over, and by 'end of axle' they are referring to the trans end of the axle?

newworld

all the above works, but sometimes i find that it gets real slippery and screwdriver etc makes some dents in cap....

i found the best way is to use pliers the kind that dwayne uses for circlip. when you press down it expands, and there are grooves so that it pushes the cap off easily you do a little on each side and move around the circle....

comes off real easy, no damage, no hammering etc

i am in process of putting my cv axle back in, i lowered my exhaust a little and finding it hard to reseat in that wheel hole with spindle marks......

i have to bend the cv axle so very difficult to put back into that grooved hole in wheel. it was easier to take it out.

Charley B

Be sure the area is clean, e-brake on, copper anti seize on spline and nut threads and play with rotating the axle slightly to achieve line up.

Good luck

Bertrand Daoust

I dropped the exhaust from the cat to the back when I did mine.
A lot more easy.

And did a trans oil change (and a K1 spring change - bye-bye second to third flare) at the same time.

LeRox

I added more grease than what was supplied with the replacement kit....

likely it wet and no leaks after DE and 7K

daveo90s4

Hi Charlie, if you're simply cleaning out the old grease and repacking with new grease and replacing cv boots then you don't need to disassemble the two halves of each cv to do so. If however you are disassembling the cv's themselves then do mark the alignment of the two halves with respect to each other before disassembly. Apparently it is possible to reassemble these with the wrong alignment in which case the cv will not function, leading to all sorts of angst.

Cheers

Charley B

Thanks Dave. In order to get the boots on I had to remove the inner joint and since it was out and apart I went ahead and disassembled and cleaned it. Fortunately there is enough info between the WSM and Dwaynes write up that I was able to reassemble them correctly.

Of course that didn't stop me from assembling the bearing cage and joint wrong a few times. It was real obvious when I did, because it was all locked up.

Fun learning experience.