Well that's why the LH isn't waking up....

Reasons, faulty EZ-F outputs - very unlikely if there is a spark ; ; a short or partial short on the rpm feed from pin 16 EZ-F to pin 1 LH, maybe even a short in the dash as the same signal drives the tachometer:
a 53 type relay fitted in the KD position as this rpm signal also feed the KD relay.

Did they fit the fuse/relay board from a Euro 16 LH/EZK car ?

 

As far as I know they swapped the complete engine with wiring harness and ECU's. The fuse/relay board remained in the car, the tach needle bounces slightly when you crank the motor.

I will ask if they worked on the pod...

 

I doubt there is a good signal to pin 1 LH, although there is some movement from the tach.

 

That is my next plan of attack. Guess what??? They had the pod removed to change the ignition switch. The pod is already installed again. So I told him to go to W11 at the main circuit board and cut the black/violett (0,75mm) cable temporarily. This will interrupt the impuls to the tach....

What do you think John?

 

That would certainly isolate the tach and KD relay from that vital path to pin 1 LH.....

 

It's already late and he is not in the shop anymore. So we have to wait until tomorrow...
I will keep ypu guys posted.

BTW the motor ran before, has good compression on all eight cylinders and he assures me that the ignition timing is just fine. They checked it multiple times....

The one thing that still confuses me is the fact that it refuses to run a little with starter fluid!?!?

 

If it won't run on starting fluid, you have an ignition or air problem.

 

OK, the cable at W11 has been disconnected and there is no change...

I'm pretty sure that there is a very simple mistake somewhere, but I have to rely on what he writes and my imagination. But I'm still stunned that it does not run on starter fluid....

 

Ask them to put a 'scope on the feed to pin 1 LH. The signal should be 12v pk-pk (0-12v) square wave.

Failing a 'scope, use a DVM on AC volts. Depending on the way meter converts to rms volts, they should read around 4 v AC. But a 'scope is the best way.

 

Is the alarm bridged?
(important, exactly which year/style fuse box and harness is utilized?)

 

The fuse box is from an 85 and the wiring harness for the motor came with the motor (1984). What are the symptoms if the alarm turned on? No fuel pump?

@ John
There is no scope but they measured around 9 Volts on DC with very little alterations. So it should be around 4 Volts on AC???

I will forward the inputs, but I think he gave up on the car and they will bring it to a 928 expert in the north of Germany. The company is called "Landsharks".

I just wrote him and told him my opinion about the no start situation with starter fluid. The engine does not even cough! It sounds to me that there is a rag somewhere in the intake or exhaust...

 

OK, that's a huge issue.
84 and 85 fuse boxes and wiring harnesses are different with respect to which plug and relays on CE controls the engine electronics.

 

This is from the test plan for the Euro cars.
Its the first document in the Moorehouse cd, section 2.15 CD1, subdirectory/ fuel injection

 

OK and thank you for the info. This means it is impossible to run a 84 motor with 84 wiring harness on a 85 main circuit board! Correct?

They should have taken the 84 motor and used the 85 wiring harness, or am I wrong?

 

Am not an expert, but that seems true based on everything I read.

How did they jam the old style plugs to fit the new style fusebox?


Regarding alarm, it sounds horn / disables power to brains if car is not running.


Not sure if alarm has any direct implications to your situation right now.