17prospective buyer

I have my engine bay wiring harness pulled and labelled. It isn't really too complicated once you have the thing out in front of you. It's looking pretty greasy, has some melted insulation spots, bit of corossion, and the knock sensor connectors pulled the male connectors out with them and all the plastic is stuck in them.

I guess i can splice on a few new connectors from a place like this.

Am i right in assuming that the best way to verify that you can still use a tatty harness is to test all the wire resistances, measure their length, and divide the resistance by that, then look up what resistance/foot the specific wire gauge is supposed to have?

It struck me that even with all new LH input sensors, a bit of extra resistance will distort the input signals.

westija

Roger sells the three-pin connector repair kit if you need them. I had problems with my Hall Sensor and Crank Position Sender connectors and bought it from him.

Ducman82

when i tested my old harness everything checked out ok. but it looked like crap and was 30 years old. so i ended up making a new one. plus i busted most of that vinyl covering (rock) sleeve...