Bowden cable end repair
#1
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I tried to adjust the tranny bowden cable but the threaded end was stuck tight to the ball socket end. The threaded end cheerily sheared off when I tried a bit more. I did yell `no please donītī but it fell to deaf ears
First I thought I needed to replace the entire bowden cable, but then I found a screw on repair end in PET, which seems perfect. It just costs about $75 bucks. For a simple threaded end. I have a relatively high tolerance for Porsche prices, but this is ridiculous.
So I looked at replacement ends online, most found at bike shops, these seem to have to be either pressed on or soldered on. I can either try to `pressī on a new end by squeezing the hell out of a pair of cable pliers, side cutters, or something like that, or I can try to solder it on.
Anyone have experience in repairing bowden cables and willing to share some helpful does and dontīs?
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First I thought I needed to replace the entire bowden cable, but then I found a screw on repair end in PET, which seems perfect. It just costs about $75 bucks. For a simple threaded end. I have a relatively high tolerance for Porsche prices, but this is ridiculous.
So I looked at replacement ends online, most found at bike shops, these seem to have to be either pressed on or soldered on. I can either try to `pressī on a new end by squeezing the hell out of a pair of cable pliers, side cutters, or something like that, or I can try to solder it on.
Anyone have experience in repairing bowden cables and willing to share some helpful does and dontīs?
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Get a threaded end with the correct thread. Clean up the cable end - fraying etc. Silver solder would be preferred for strength, if you can do it. Get the cable end soaked with solder, file it all clean so it will go into the hole in the back of the threaded end. Insert cable into hole with assembly vertical, thread end down, fill with solder. If you have an end with grub screws coming in from the side to lock the cable, fit these before filling with solder.
I think driving without the cable will just produce early up changes, as the box wont know how much pedal you have applied.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
I think driving without the cable will just produce early up changes, as the box wont know how much pedal you have applied.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
#6
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I made my own. I will check for it as I have replaced my cable during TT rebuild. Just a collar that screws on to threaded ball cup end with two set screws to hold cable.
I found it, would you like me to send it to you?
Thomas
I found it, would you like me to send it to you?
Thomas
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Thanks for the responses.
I tried soldering, but since the cable is stainless steel it doesn't flow with a normal (20W) soldering iron.
Luckily no such thing as a unique problem on rennlist. Thomas, if you don't need the collar anymore, then I would love to have it. Thanks!
I tried soldering, but since the cable is stainless steel it doesn't flow with a normal (20W) soldering iron.
Luckily no such thing as a unique problem on rennlist. Thomas, if you don't need the collar anymore, then I would love to have it. Thanks!
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#8
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lol... 5 years of Spanish a private elementary school, three years in high school, two semesters of german in college,and 20 years of hispanic employees...
so yes LOTS of spanish, and NO FRENCH....
i refuse to learn french...other than le french fries.....lol
#10
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take a bolt of the right thread pitch, and a short part that has no thread.
Cut off the head a drill a hole in the end where the head was that is JUST bigger than the cable.
Insert cable and with a butane or propane torch heat it to run silver solder into it.
Once cool reassemble!
Cut off the head a drill a hole in the end where the head was that is JUST bigger than the cable.
Insert cable and with a butane or propane torch heat it to run silver solder into it.
Once cool reassemble!
#11
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take a bolt of the right thread pitch, and a short part that has no thread.
Cut off the head a drill a hole in the end where the head was that is JUST bigger than the cable.
Insert cable and with a butane or propane torch heat it to run silver solder into it.
Once cool reassemble!
Cut off the head a drill a hole in the end where the head was that is JUST bigger than the cable.
Insert cable and with a butane or propane torch heat it to run silver solder into it.
Once cool reassemble!
#12
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Silver soldering is a neat process I have used for along time for making certain parts...it comes in handy very often for the sorts of things I do...but it does require a good hot flame....able to heat up the parts to a cherry red, and a prope flux is needed also....welding supply shops will have all you need and will most likely give you some tips on use too...