17prospective buyer

Podguy you've used Easy Off on the aluminum parts? How did it do? Is it safe to use with the block? I know it takes off anodizing.

thezonster

Ive found that gasoline in a spray bottle and a tooth brush work wonders.
But be carefull.

depami

As if our sharks don't already have a high enough risk of an engine fire!

Lizard928

Pressure washer......

Mrmerlin

I got this mess in the shop,
I like to use brake cleaner and a scrub brush,
after scraping off the thick stuff,
it evaporates pretty fast and cleans the oils off so everything is squeaky clean.
The floor gets covered with some cardboard and drain pans placed under the dripping areas then its put in the waste container.


Jim when you refit the oil pump used some DC111 on the O rings this will keep them soft for a long time.
Make sure the outer gear has the bevel facing to the front of the car and the alignment dots face to the block there is one dot on each gear .
Fill the oil pump with STP oil treatment turn the gears then install it,
this will give you instant oil pressure
If your fitting a new steel oil pump pulley gear then the 1mm spacer thats fitted to behind the aluminum gear is left off

tmpusfugit

Mr. Merlin, remarkable! Plaudits to you in big way. I have seen a lot of photo #1, and darned few of photo #2

jwillman

+1000 on that. He has set the bar very high!!

Thanks for the input. I have not had much luck tracking down the DC111. Do you buy it online?

Ed Scherer

You can get .

Alternatively, I believe that the Danco Silicone Grease that you can get at Home Depot or at Lowe's in the plumbing department is just rebranded DC111. I hope so, because that's what I've been using.



See this thread on another discussion group for a post that indicates that Danco "Silicone Grease" 88693 is rebranded DC111 and that Danco "Waterproof Grease" 80360A is a rebranded Polysi Technologies product.

(Both might work; if you're using them for general plumbing, see Danco Plumbers Waterproof Grease vs Danco Plumbers Silicone Grease.)

Big Dave

Mineral spirits, wire brushes, dental picks, and lots of time.
BEFORE



AFTER

jwillman

Man oh man. My engine is clean by comparison!

I am already feeling bad because I know mine won't look that good.

Thanks guys for giving me a goal and the tips.

Jchiodi

Seconds on the kerosene, brass brushes and brake cleaner. Didn't take pics, too embarrassed!

I will be putting on new oil gear, o-rings, front seal, rear cam seals, timing belt, cam gears PKtensioner.
$1700 in parts for maintenance! ouch.

jc

dr bob

Brake cleaner might be the last touch-up after a lot of degreasing. In Cali-land, brake cleaner is acetone in a spray can, with a little higher-boiling solvent mixed in for good measure. The original had carbon tet, but that's on the EPA sh!list as carcinogenic.

If you can manage the runoff, I like Foamy engine Brite after a bit of scraping on the big chunks. Follow the directions on the can, letting it soak fr a while. Multiple treatments for thick deposits, mechanical agitation with a stiff oarts-cleaner brush, all contribute to good results.

The orange oil cleaners, mixed with a few gallons of patience, will get the job done without some of the solvent runoff from the spray foam.

The purple degeasers, oven cleaners and. The like are all caustic nd therefore harmful to aluminum engine parts. There are warnings on the bottles against using them on aluminum and there are good reasons.

Almost anything other than solvent and detergent emulsifiers will trash your cad-plated engine bits. Solvent is tough on the original manifold and can cover paint. Lots to consider!

M. Requin

Not to mention that if you weld around any of the carbon tet based stuff, it generates phosgene, aka mustard gas. Learned that online, and it probably kept me out of some serious trouble, so I pass it on when I can.