Fog+Driving lights on same time?
#2
Three Wheelin'
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There is that button in the middle on the left side of the pod that has to be pushed in. Then you push the signal lever towards the front of the car, you hear a click and now you have high beams on the head lights and the fog lights.
Is that what you were asking?
Mine is an 88
Is that what you were asking?
Mine is an 88
#4
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88S4.
When I go high beams, the fog lights disable, driving lights come on.
The only time BOTH are on, is when the headlights are OFF, figs are on, and I do a flash-to-pass and hold it.
With lights on..fogs go off on high beams always.
When I go high beams, the fog lights disable, driving lights come on.
The only time BOTH are on, is when the headlights are OFF, figs are on, and I do a flash-to-pass and hold it.
With lights on..fogs go off on high beams always.
#6
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In the '91 and up wiring diagram, there's a note next to the foglamp relay that says the ROW cars got one of those brass relay bridges (to bridge 30 and 87) in relay slot VIII. No such mention on the 88 (or 89 or 90) diagram, so not sure how to effect the same thing on your '88.
'91 (and up, I think):
'91 (and up, I think):
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/1991%20ROW%20vs%20US%20foglamp%20relay%20C8-D9%207-28-12.jpg)
#7
Electron Wrangler
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Foglight Relay (87-89 = XIII, 90 = IV) is different between ROW/Euro & USA for 87- 90: USA has a special version - replace this with a standard SPST (or SPDT) Bosch relay for ROW behavior
Alan
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 07-29-2012 at 09:12 PM.
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#10
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Jeff,
The ground wiring for the fog/driving bucket is wimpy for both bulbs lit, especially if you use brighter (>55W ) bulbs. 'Cavity empty" or whatever the pig-latin is for "at your own risk!"
The ground wiring for the fog/driving bucket is wimpy for both bulbs lit, especially if you use brighter (>55W ) bulbs. 'Cavity empty" or whatever the pig-latin is for "at your own risk!"
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#12
Electron Wrangler
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Agree - If you do upgrade bulbs you may want to consider bulking up the ground, and perhaps even local relays...
I do recommend this ROW config if you use HIDs in the fogs - else the HID cycling on high beam switching is just stupid... With HID fogs - the voltage performance will be better than a Euro with stock bulbs...
Alan
#13
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The high beam cycling on the modern AC ballasts isnt bad..they still POP on..people see them, and they are 100% up in about 6 seconds for straight use.
So...I had to move the drivers 8" Euro H4 beam in 1.5 turns and down 1.5 turns..and now its where it needs to be, last...final..adjustment done I think.
I have DC ballasts at 70W for the main beams at 6000k, DC 55s at 4300 for the Fog and Driving lights.
Its..fantastic.
The Fog and Driving lights at that bright yellow 4300 works with the slightly blueish (but not ricer blue) white lights very very well. Takes the strain off of the eyes that I find the 6k's by themselves can do after long trips.
So...I had to move the drivers 8" Euro H4 beam in 1.5 turns and down 1.5 turns..and now its where it needs to be, last...final..adjustment done I think.
I have DC ballasts at 70W for the main beams at 6000k, DC 55s at 4300 for the Fog and Driving lights.
Its..fantastic.
The Fog and Driving lights at that bright yellow 4300 works with the slightly blueish (but not ricer blue) white lights very very well. Takes the strain off of the eyes that I find the 6k's by themselves can do after long trips.
Last edited by Speedtoys; 07-30-2012 at 03:27 AM.