byrdman454

Earlier in the thread, I was talking about the condition of the plugs. One of the plugs was VERY sooted up, but just the one. The other ones looked somewhat normal from what I can remember. My Dad pulled three of the plugs on the passenger side and said they looked so clean it made him think they were brand new. The ones on the driver's side looked like normal running plugs.

If I do have a leaking injector, I assume I must pull the intake off to fix this? They have to be replaced or sent off to Witch-hunter for rebuild? The '85 does not have much access to get at these for any trouble shooting.

byrdman454

Just swapped in the rebuilt MAF from the Euro. Did not make any difference. The MAF is not the problem.

SteveG

re: intake. I think you only have to remove the rectangular outer pieces. I had the whole thing off b/c I was doing hoses to throttle body. Disconnect batt. Disconnect fuel supply, a couple ounces of gas will come out, some rags wrapped around will keep it from spraying. Gently disconnect the elec. connectors, the wire and sheathing is probably brittle and will crack, this is not necessarily fatal. I left the injectors connected to the rail and gently pry the rail up with injectors attached. This took lots of maneuvering from one end to the other. A long screw driver or wonder bar may be used with padding, but you don't want to bend or stress the rail too much. If it won't budge, remove the rail and do the injectors individually. YMMV.

SQLGuy

No, just the side box of the intake would need to be removed. Then you'd need to disconnect the fuel rail, unbolt it, and pry it up. Injectors will often come out with the rail. A piece of wood can be a good lever... to avoid scratching/marring anything when prying the rail. It takes quite a lot of force to pull the rail off.

REALLY clean plugs could be a sign of a head gasket leak - coolant in the combustion chambers cleans plugs well.

SQLGuy

By the way, another place for injector cleaning that I can definitely recommend, is Cruzin Performance.

http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html

He also does flow testing on the injectors as part of the service.

byrdman454

What do I need to check for a head gasket leak? Just look for milky residue on the dipstick from the water/oil mixing? I checked the dipstick last weekend and it looked fine. The coolant reservoir was also full.

Cruzin performance was who cleaned the injectors on my Dad's Euro. Looks like they are about $3 an injector cheaper than Witchhunter.

SQLGuy

I think the ideal way to check for a head gasket leak is a HC sniffer into the coolant reservoir, but I don't know whether you can rent or borrow one of those.

How have the coolant temps been during normal use?

Also, were the plugs all really clean on one bank, and more normal (except for the black one) on the other side?

byrdman454

From what I remember, the drivers side bank was all normal. 1 on the passenger side was all black and the other three looked really clean. I need to pull those on the passenger side again to verify.

Podguy

I would discount a head gasket leak. This is an accute condition and not one that has been going on a long time. True a little coolant in the combustion chamber will clean the plugs, but clean plugs are a sign of a well running engine.

While all the injectors do open at once they do squirt gas near the cyclinder they are closest to. You have one fouled plug which explains the symptoms. A sticky injector can continue to leak gas when it is not open. The amount of gas released by the injector is a function of pressure and duration. As I understand it you raised the fuel pressure to use Ken's chips. This may have been enough to push a flaky injector over the hill.

Yes you can pull the fuel rail with out pulling the intake manifold. I am not so sure sending injectors out for balancing is much more than a subtle fraud. The injectors cannot be disassembled for cleaning. With a little Berrymans and some compressed air. Balancing simply means selecting injectors from a large batch and matching the spray patterns. I am less than convinced that balanced injectors improve perfomance much. The most important thing is to get about the same amount of gas into the engine from each injector. Again duration and pressure control that. There may be some marginal benefit to balancing but I would want to know what the problem with your engine is before spending that kind of money.

You can put some berrymans in the injector you expect is bad and apply some air pressure. If it drips then you have probably found your problem. I am sure there are a number of people on this list with a few used S3 injectors sitting around. I have a few myself. There might also be alternative injectors that give you better performance for less money new.

Of if you are nervous about using berrymans due to flamability you could use some alcohol for testing.

byrdman454

What are some alternative injectors that can be used on the '85? Does anyone have a part number and source? It would be interesting to do a price comparison.

Dan, good idea on testing those injectors...

SMTCapeCod

A search for "ford injectors" should get you the part number/description for some that can be retrofit, and sources for new and rebuilt injectors. They are available in the four-hole design, which should provide better atomization all other things being equal. Slightly higher flow rate too, but that is unlikely to be any kind of an advantage absent some serious modification.

byrdman454

Found some interesting info on these injectors on Rennlist search. Looks like Jegs/Summit and alot of the other big companies are not selling these anymore. They sell them, but you have to buy an adapter to get back to the Bosch style connector. I also read on some Mustang forums that this older style injector is being fazed out for the thin pencil style injector.

Has anyone used the Venom High Performance Fuel Injectors - 24lb (89-04 V8) made by Python? Looks like a direct swap. Here are the specs:
Injector Advertised Flow Rate (lbs/hr): 24
Injector Advertised Flow Rate (cc/min): 255
Quantity Sold as a set of 8
Injector Impedance: 16.1 ohms
Driver Type: 12V saturated circuit
Overall Height (in): 3.051
Seat to Seat Height (in): 2.026
Manifold O-ring Outside Diameter (in): 0.576
Fuel Rail O-ring Outside Diameter (in): 0.576
Outside Diameter (in): 0.941
Injector Plug Style: Bosch/Amp Style
O-Rings Included: Yes

Are these a direct swap? Can anyone think of any issues using these? They can still be bought for a good price.

byrdman454

From the Rennlist search...
The Ford Motorsport 24# injectors are a direct drop in for the 85-86 32V motor. The o-rings do not need to be swapped.
Part Number is 9593-A302.

Did not find any new ones except one set on eBay. The rest are all remanufactured.

Podguy

Mike.

Since you are running Ken's Chips and a different regulator I would check with ken before messing with the injectors. As far as the Ford injectors did you try Rock Auto. Some times they have close outs.

Before spending much money I would replace the one injector with a used one, put the rail back on using the original seals and see if fixes the problem. It would be a bummer to spend a lot of money and then find the problem is somewhere else.

Mike Frye

Those 24# Ford Injectors are the ones I use. They work fine with Ken's chips and 55psi regulator.