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Car Not Charging: Need to Access Connector C in Gauge Cluster

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Old 07-15-2012, 09:42 PM
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dr bob
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Anthony

I'm in another part of the world right now (sorry, it really was the middle of the night here when you called...) and don't have the books with me. Can someone get him the wire terminals and wire colors for the excitation loop between CE and the C connector to the instrument cluster?

You --really-- need to get a set of the wiring diagrams, even if they are the scanned set that's part of the Morehouse cd set.
Old 07-15-2012, 10:02 PM
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LT Texan
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Originally Posted by Fontana
My car is not charging and Dr. Bob has been walking me through this over the phone (thanks Bob). We need to access Connector C Pin 3 and 4 to see if things are working properly. Exciter does not seem to be working. Alternator is new and was tested. Battery was tested as well and fully charged. Do I have to pull the gauge cluster to access this or can I do it from underneath?
Thanks
You have to pull the pod on mine to get to the instrument cluster connectors.

I don't have airbags!!!!!

I can move the pod out of the way without removing the switches.

I'd like to give you a hand, but I was busy breaking mine.
Old 07-16-2012, 11:00 PM
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The wires to cluster connector C on my '85 wiring diagram are: terminal 3 is black and the wire to terminal 4 is blue. The black wire runs to B21 on the CE panel. The blue goes to L23 on the CE panel.
Old 07-17-2012, 12:05 AM
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Fontana
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I re-wired the main harness this afternoon, put everything back in place and the car is now charging at 13.50. Thanks for all the help on this one guys. I just have to figure out why my interior gauge lights are not working. The wires all sticking together probably blew out all the bulbs in the pod. Nothing illuminates in there except for the warning lights and the gear shifter. Getting there...
Old 07-17-2012, 09:45 AM
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WAY TO GO ANTHONY!!!!!





Old 07-17-2012, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Fontana
I re-wired the main harness this afternoon, put everything back in place and the car is now charging at 13.50. Thanks for all the help on this one guys. I just have to figure out why my interior gauge lights are not working. The wires all sticking together probably blew out all the bulbs in the pod. Nothing illuminates in there except for the warning lights and the gear shifter. Getting there...
GREAT NEWS!
Old 07-17-2012, 11:06 PM
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Great news. Did the rest of the indicators start working correctly with the new wiring fixes? Like oil press and temp gauges?
Old 07-18-2012, 04:53 AM
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Fontana
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Hey Dr. Bob. Yes all indicators are working correctly and are no longer flashing full time with the exception of the ABS light being on. Probably just a bad/dirty sensor.
I have to figure out why I am not getting any off the line performance. I think my throttle/kickdown linkage is not set right. Car does not shift smoothly at all. I tried messing with it yesterday and now it feels like it is not shifting. I think I have the linkage too loose now. Transmission was rebuilt about three years ago so I know it's not that. More of an adjustment problem.
Old 07-18-2012, 05:01 AM
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Fontana
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I know this car has a low gear ratio, but is it suppose to be such a slouch off the line? Once it revs up, it pulls real hard, I mean really hard!!! I want to be pushed back into my seat. Spinning the tires the way the car is right now would be absolutely impossible. I had a german specialist mechanic who has some experience with these cars drive it yesterday and he said it felt like any other 928 he had ever driven. I hope it's just the throttle/kickdown adjustments, otherwise when I have everything sorted out, this car will definitely need a blower and taller gears to put a smile on my face. Right now I am not impressed...
Old 07-18-2012, 08:16 PM
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The car has 2.2:1 final drive. The car rolls from a stop in second gear unless you manually pull the gear lever back to "2" before launch. Count shifts and decide if you are using first gear and go from there.

Carefully adjust the cable from the bellcrank to the throttle so that the butterfly is just at full open with pedal on the floor. Then adjust the TV cable to the trans so that there is no slack but no pretension when you pop the ball back onto the bellcrank.

Look under the pedal and locate the little push switch. Make sure that full pedal down pushes the switch down. This makes full-throttle downshifts faster/sooner.

Depending on who rebuilt the trans, it may or may not be OK to say that there's nothing wrong with it.

Most 928 come into their own well after they have launched. Big numbers on the Autobahn measure this car's performance. 0-60 times are in the seven second range, hardly neck-snapping off-the-line performance. GTI's will easily out launch you. In return you get to suck their headlights out past 100. Your car is faster than most, but is less quick than many. Get used to it.
Old 08-02-2012, 10:54 PM
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I fixed my gauge lights tonight. Yes!!!!!
I took my center console out completely again for the heck of it and looked carefully at the re-wiring I did do to the small fire I had. Upon careful inspection, I noticed behind the thick bundle of wires within my harness, there are 3-4 wires taped together so well that they could pass for an antenna wire. I pulled the tape off and they were all melted together. Rubber was gone, but tape outside was fine (this goes to show you not to take for granted that just because tape/outer casing looks fine, that everything within will be too. Don't make the mistake that I made.) After doing this, I checked the fuse after I know I replaced it and it was blown again (not surprising as the wires were fused together). I replaced the wires, put in a new fuse and I have lights in the pod and center console!!! I said it before, this car met it's match! I don't give up!
Old 08-02-2012, 11:05 PM
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I now have to figure out which pins in the back of the HVAC control module go where. There are about six of them I believe. I don't think I have them in the right places.

I also don't think I have the vacuum lines behind it going to the right places as the metal tree which they plug into can get hot.

Speedometer is not working at all

My other mystery is that I am not sure which wires go to the clock.

My ABS warning light stays on all the time. I have to work that out.

One more thing is that my stop lamp will go on when I start the car, but will go off as soon as I hit the brakes? No bulbs are out. I replaced them all for the heck of it.

A/C compressor is in place, but looks like it has not been working in years. Belt has been removed by first owner. I want to address that at some point too. Anyone rebuild these? Alternative recommendations are welcomed. I would love to drive the car with the A/C going at some point, but I guess I am getting ahead of myself.

Gettin there...
Old 08-04-2012, 11:23 AM
  #28  
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Anthony-

Speedo wiring starts at a pulse sensor at the diff, then a connector in the spare tire well. With the wiring you've repaired so far, it's possible you missed some between ce and cluster? You can verify pulse sensor function to the ce connections with your Ohm meter, from there figure out if the problem is rear wiring or cluster harness.

Good News!! That stoplight warning is working as it should.
Old 08-04-2012, 11:38 AM
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That is good news...One less thing I have to fix. I will look again, however I was very thorough about going over the re-wiring this time around.



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