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I am using a Harbor Freight powder coating gun. It is a little quirky though. It has begun to shock me if I grab the gun after turning the unit on. It's only when I have sweaty, conductive hands. If I hold the gun and make connection first, then turn the unit on, it doesn't do it. I'll have to look into that before I get fried.

Here is the exact gun in a random picture on Google.


I have modified the powder cup though. Inside the cup is a pipe to fluidize the powder and the other pipe sucks the powder mist into the gun. I have removed the two pipes and threaded in hose nipple fittings. I have two ten foot sections of vinyl hose running to a remote powder cup. Inside I have a coiled section of copper pipe with holes drilled to hopefully "spiral" the air inside the cup and airate the powder. The other tube just sucks the powder out of the air in the cup and sends it to the gun. The remote powder cup allows you to hold the gun at any angle when you are spraying. I read about it on the internet. It works quite well. I have separate powder cups and hoses for each color I spray. You have to thoroughly blow the previous color out of the gun, or your new color will be peppered with the old. It isn't noticeable from five or ten feet, but you can see it up close. The gun has a foot pedal to actuate the electric system, but I just sit a rock on it, so I can move around.

Charley B

I'm impressed. You're what my grandfather used to to call "One o them inovatin' boys".

MBMB

Motor mount cozies!

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I am so glad I made my cross member three pieces. My oil pan has been leaking since I installed the gasket. Luckily, I saved myself so much trouble by making the cross member into a three piece.

This time, I used Yamabond against reading the first time that the silicone gasket should be installed with no sealant. I took all of the studs out, which I installed with blue loctite first, and I reinstalled with red loctite. The blue loctite broke loose when tightening down many of the nyloc nuts. Some of the studs came out with the nuts when removing the oil pan yesterday.

I have only torqued it down to three pound feet so far using a torque pattern radiating from the center of the pan outwards to the ends. I then torque down each end in towards the center. Every time I go back to do the pattern, the bolts are no longer torqued down where I set them. It is going to be one of those long ordeals.

I'm trying not to let the gasket bulge, but with nyloc nuts and studs that are going no where, I don't have to worry about getting the torque to spec.

Long story short, make your cross member three piece. Not only can you leave your suspension on, your motor continues to be supported on your mounts without having to hold it up while the cross member is out. I did have to remove the sway bar to give more access to the pan, but my steering rack is just dangling.

If anyone would be interested in threaded blocks like mine that you could weld to your cross member then cut between them, let me know.

Shark_Week

I am shocked and concerned that you had to use sealant on the silicone gasket. Not the norm from what i haveseen . I tapped threads into my nylock nuts and double nutted after torqueing with plain nuts

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I probably didn't have to use sealant. The first time around, I didn't have an inch pound torque wrench, I didn't use a pattern. I just went around stupidly in a circle, and I only made one or two passes.

The first time, I did make sure both mating surfaces were spick and span though. I scraped with a razor blade on the pan and block.

I only used sealant, because I AM NOT getting under there again haha. I'm ready to enjoy the car AND my weekends for once, possibly at the same time. I put a thin line on the block then put the gasket on while the studs held it. I squished it down and wiped the few spots where it seeped to the inside. Then I spread a very thin coat on the pan and made sure none was on the inside of the flange then I mated them up. I think it will be all right.

I let it idle on the jack stands for about twenty minutes. No leaks so far.

jeff spahn

I like the three piece crossmember.

Am I the only one who has no trouble pulling the steering rack downand getting the crossmember out ? I have found it to be a very easy and trouble free job. Everything lines right up and goes on smoothly.

WallyP

"Am I the only one who has no trouble pulling the steering rack down and getting the crossmember out ?"


Probably.

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The oil leak persists, but instead of having oil dripping from different pan bolts around the pan, it is now concentrated at the front of the pan.

I did need to at least retorque the pan gasket, and the sealant was just extra security, but I believe my main front seal is leaking.

I already have a timing belt and water pump. I'll need to get a few more things then that can begin. Is it something I can knock out between a Friday evening and a Sunday night? This car is my daily driver like many of yours.

Don't you hate when you're in anything but your 928? You always see the other Porsches, cars that want to race, and pretty women when you are in anything else.