hinchcliffe

I was getting ready to pop out of gear when coming to a light today and the shift lever just went forward without disengaging (is that a word?)? Wouldn't go anywhere but straight forward/backward.

Wierd, clutch in/out didn't matter, I was in 4th gear. No when my ball cup popped on a previous car the shift lever would go anywhere and just didn't shift. I put it back in 4th position let go of the clutch pedal and pulled back and felt right where the gear is.

You know when you let off the gas you can pull it out of gear I could feel that spot. So i held it against that area and put the clutch in and was able to shift like normal again, though the throw seems different as it engages it has what feels like more empty area past the engagement point. I'm assuming it was always like this but never really noticed it till this happened so I'm being ovely sensitive probably.

Anyway if I shift then touch the lever against the engagement spot I don't have this issue nd it seems to be shifting fine as I drove around for another 15 minutes. the weather is hot/humid today 87 right now. And i have noticed a dime sized drip from the tranny area (thinking front pinion seal ad it looks like it is from the inspection hole area of the torque tube. So I'll chekc the fluid level tonight.

Anyone else experieneced this? The clucth seems fine and I don't smell anything out of the ordinary?

Lizard928

The locking pin (removed with 4mm allen key) has backed out.

or the pinch bolt on the front of the rear coupler is loose.

Dave928S

+1 on what Colin said.

hinchcliffe

Been searching and can't find pics, any chance you guys know where to look for them. I can only learn by seeing not reading.....

I'll remove the inspection hole cover and see what i can reach. Should be able to reach the couple bolt?

WallyP

The shift rod coupling has a problem. It is located over the rear end of the torque tube. The coupling connects the long rear shift rod from the stick to the transmission shift rod. The coupling has a slip-fit connection to the rear end of the long shift rod. It may be loose.

If you need to tighten the pinch bolt, get the transmission into neutral. See if the shift lever is where you want it fore-and-aft. When it is where you want it, tighten the bolt.

There is a locking pin on the rear end of the coupler. Check it for proper installation and tightness.

Dave928S

Here's a pic of the disassembled rear coupler with arrows pointing to the pinch bolt at the front and the grub screw at the rear. Both should be tight and stopping movement. In this view it shows the bushings and cross shaft removed also, which of course won't be what you'll see. All this is above the torque tube at the rear, in front of the gearbox.

BTW ... make sure you have the grub screw allen key recess cleaned out properly and the key fully inserted, or you might ruin the head of it.

depami

Hope these help.

Good luck and have fun!

hinchcliffe

Everything is tight bolt wise. What a pain the boot was just to stretch it over the coupling.

Anyway, the pin in the bushings has a bit of play as does the coupler shaft that heads into the gearbox. Can those bushings be replaced without removing everything or maybe a liner added to take up area inside of them? I'm still not sure what the problem is, though I will tighten up everything just for verification on that side of it.

Dave928S

^^^ The bushings are slightly oval from the factory, so that accounts for some slop. You can get aftermarket delrin bushings as a substitute from Roger, which eliminate the play. The coupler wouldn't appear to be the problem, but getting this tight hasn't been wasted time.

If you grab the gearshift shaft going into the gearbox (Dennys last pic), are you getting the same degree of slop there? This would obviously be easier if you happened to have the coupler disconnected.

Gary Knox

Curt,

You can push thin pieces of plastic in to tighten up the rear shifter bushing a little bit. BUT, if it's got much play, order a set of the Delrin bushings from Roger T. ASAP.

Hope to see you tomorrow morning.

Gary--

Courtshark

The bushings need to be pressed in; cannot be done with the coupler on the car (I don't see how that would be physically possible).

hinchcliffe

OK, I thightened it all up, we'll see. Seems to have a bit of play in the shaft going to the gearbox. Coupler has a fair amount of side to side and back and forth.

We'll see if tightening did anything. I searched and can buy the full coupler from Pelican for $75, probably the best bet. I'm sure if you had the right set up you could press a new set in, but not worth the hassle if a new coupleing is $75.

Gary I'll be at the track Thursday, we'll see how it runs down there.

Lizard928

Don't bother with a new coupler, get new bushings from Roger!

Courtshark

Yes, the stock bushings are crap!

Courtshark

Also, order the replacement coupler boot, WYAIT