17prospective buyer

Some of the bolt holes in my crankcase lower half (for the oil pan) are drilled right through, so when using studs you can't really get an accurate torque reading, should you just use a bolt on the other side? Also, how is it expected that those bolt holes will seal?? I thought about just dabbing on some high temp RTV on the other side to seal them, but i know using Loctite in the first place would be the right way to do it.

Leon Speed

I'd say use the studs with the allen key way up so you'll be able to hold it from the top and torque it from below. Loctite will seal.

17prospective buyer

That's what i thought too, i'll Loctite the "right through" bolt hole studs to seal them. Thanks for the advice.

blown 87

The factory gasket and bolts seems to work very well for me.

928porschepatrick

those studs in my case starts to rust

dr bob

Loctite (blue) on all the studs. For the silocone gasket, we did well with 15 inch/lbs on new Nyloks in the kit. No sealant. Loctite set for a few hours before pan was installed. There's no good way to get reliable torque reading with an Allen key in the stud. ;(

dr bob

And pay close attention to the studs right over the starter motor. You may want to be able to install that starter motor at some point, don't want the studs sticking dwn too far and in the way.

Podguy

I just did this job. There is a point where there are no treads on the middle of the stud. That sets a stopping point. I would not use blue Loctite. Red is the selection for setting studs. The red will allow the stud to not move when you torque the nut. Often when setting studs it is a good idea to lock them in with a punch. This is a very common procedure.

dr bob

Dan--

The "studs" in Roger's kit are really Allen setscrews, so thread is contiinuous Depth is adjusted as needed to maintain enough exposed threads for the nuts. As much as I like red LocTite, blue is strong enough plus it supports changing those 6mm studs without surgery if needed later.

17prospective buyer

Locking mere oil pan nuts with the permanent punch method? They're just holding the oil pan on, and there's also 30 of them... should be plenty of clamping force to hold an oil pan on. I torqued the "right through" holes just by reversing the stud around so that the allen head side is reverse of the side the nut is put on, so i just held it with a key while i tightened them. Used blue Loctite, and also sealed the tip of the stud with a dollop of high temp RTV just to be sure.

dr bob

Curious why you didn't leave the Allen end out where you could use a wrench to directly turn the studs.

The studs need to be locked in place somehow, so that the locking part of the nylok nut actually fits over a few threads of the stud. If the studs aren't secured, they just turn in the girdle as you try to get the nuts to enggae far enough tol"lock". At the same time, studs even in in the blind holes need to be locked in place so they don't loosen in service. To get an accurate torque on the nuts, your securing method needs to be consistent for all studs. Else the nylocks turning on studs won't have the same clamping force as the studs turning in the girdle.

Avoid putting anything into blind holes ahead of a bolt or stud. Use a drop of LocTite on the bolt/stud threads.