. My bad
help!!!
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help!!!
New to forum Based in kenya 
1980 928S manual Ktronic
Have a spark and checked all the timing etc but not starting. Have noticed that when I turn of the Ignition all is off but am still getting pressure through the injectors and loads of fuel still coming out? And flooding?
Any suggestions ?
marc
1980 928S manual Ktronic
Have a spark and checked all the timing etc but not starting. Have noticed that when I turn of the Ignition all is off but am still getting pressure through the injectors and loads of fuel still coming out? And flooding?
Any suggestions ?
marc
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From: Aurora, Ontario, Canada
Sounds like you're off the scale on the rich mixture side. You're going to need to read up on the injection system for the older cars. Lots of info here..... And probably get a set of proper gauges to check the system. Roger @ 928s R Us is the place to start.
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From: Tasmania, Australia
We probably need a bit more information to be able to help you though. How long has it been since the car ran? If it did run before when did this problem occur? What checks have you done so far? .. etc etc.
Provide as much information as you can, and then we can help you begin the process of elimination of potential problems.
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From: Tasmania, Australia
OK ... if it hasn't run for five years then it's very likely that the fuel system is varnished up, and you have all sorts of other issues, like corrosion, from the car sitting around for so long. The plunger I'm talking about is within the fuel distributor head and moves up and down to vary the pressure to the injectors, and may be gummed up after all this time. You should not pull the fuel distributor apart.
Here are a couple of threads on starting a car after many years left idle, with a some checklists of what to do first.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-restored.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ree-years.html
Get back to us with further questions once you've read these, and as much of the workshop manual (WSM) as you can absorb; but you very first step with the fuel system will be to flush it entirely to get rid of old fuel and debris. There is a very strong chance that the lines running up to the front of the car are corroded internally and may be feeding debris to the distributor and causing some of your problem (and may need renewal).
The problem solving will need to be a methodical approach, but starting with a clean tank, flushed lines, flushed accumulator and pump, and a new filter ... in other words, everything in the circuit that delivers fuel to the motor and returns it to the tank needs to be clean. If that isn't done to start with you'll just end up chasing your tail. While you have all the flex hoses off you should also replace them as a good safety starting point as well.
Once the fuel delivery and return circuit is clean and functioning properly, then you can start to problem solve by taking control and system pressure readings, and go from there and rectify defects in the fuel metering system (WUR, fuel distributor, etc).
Here are a couple of threads on starting a car after many years left idle, with a some checklists of what to do first.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-restored.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ree-years.html
Get back to us with further questions once you've read these, and as much of the workshop manual (WSM) as you can absorb; but you very first step with the fuel system will be to flush it entirely to get rid of old fuel and debris. There is a very strong chance that the lines running up to the front of the car are corroded internally and may be feeding debris to the distributor and causing some of your problem (and may need renewal).
The problem solving will need to be a methodical approach, but starting with a clean tank, flushed lines, flushed accumulator and pump, and a new filter ... in other words, everything in the circuit that delivers fuel to the motor and returns it to the tank needs to be clean. If that isn't done to start with you'll just end up chasing your tail. While you have all the flex hoses off you should also replace them as a good safety starting point as well.
Once the fuel delivery and return circuit is clean and functioning properly, then you can start to problem solve by taking control and system pressure readings, and go from there and rectify defects in the fuel metering system (WUR, fuel distributor, etc).
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Joe Kucinski
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From: Tasmania, Australia
As you do things, keep reporting back here, and we can make sure you're heading in the right direction. Got any more questions? ... just ask. It would be worth posting some pics of your car, including a few of the engine bay, so we can see what general condition the car is in. From the other threads you can also see that pics help a lot in diagnosis of problems.
Craic Head
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What Dave said!
And also, you might want to change the thread title to something like:
Help!!! 1980 MY won't start after 5 year sleep
Or something like that. This way the rest of the OB masters (in addition to Dave928S) will know what kind of trouble you need help with. It will also help later on when others are searching the archives.
Good luck with it!
And also, you might want to change the thread title to something like:
Help!!! 1980 MY won't start after 5 year sleep
Or something like that. This way the rest of the OB masters (in addition to Dave928S) will know what kind of trouble you need help with. It will also help later on when others are searching the archives.
Good luck with it!
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Posts: 3,057
Likes: 432
From: Cleveland, MN
OK ... if it hasn't run for five years then it's very likely that the fuel system is varnished up, and you have all sorts of other issues, like corrosion, from the car sitting around for so long. The plunger I'm talking about is within the fuel distributor head and moves up and down to vary the pressure to the injectors, and may be gummed up after all this time. You should not pull the fuel distributor apart.
Here are a couple of threads on starting a car after many years left idle, with a some checklists of what to do first.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-restored.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ree-years.html
Get back to us with further questions once you've read these, and as much of the workshop manual (WSM) as you can absorb; but you very first step with the fuel system will be to flush it entirely to get rid of old fuel and debris. There is a very strong chance that the lines running up to the front of the car are corroded internally and may be feeding debris to the distributor and causing some of your problem (and may need renewal).
The problem solving will need to be a methodical approach, but starting with a clean tank, flushed lines, flushed accumulator and pump, and a new filter ... in other words, everything in the circuit that delivers fuel to the motor and returns it to the tank needs to be clean. If that isn't done to start with you'll just end up chasing your tail. While you have all the flex hoses off you should also replace them as a good safety starting point as well.
Once the fuel delivery and return circuit is clean and functioning properly, then you can start to problem solve by taking control and system pressure readings, and go from there and rectify defects in the fuel metering system (WUR, fuel distributor, etc).
Here are a couple of threads on starting a car after many years left idle, with a some checklists of what to do first.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-restored.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ree-years.html
Get back to us with further questions once you've read these, and as much of the workshop manual (WSM) as you can absorb; but you very first step with the fuel system will be to flush it entirely to get rid of old fuel and debris. There is a very strong chance that the lines running up to the front of the car are corroded internally and may be feeding debris to the distributor and causing some of your problem (and may need renewal).
The problem solving will need to be a methodical approach, but starting with a clean tank, flushed lines, flushed accumulator and pump, and a new filter ... in other words, everything in the circuit that delivers fuel to the motor and returns it to the tank needs to be clean. If that isn't done to start with you'll just end up chasing your tail. While you have all the flex hoses off you should also replace them as a good safety starting point as well.
Once the fuel delivery and return circuit is clean and functioning properly, then you can start to problem solve by taking control and system pressure readings, and go from there and rectify defects in the fuel metering system (WUR, fuel distributor, etc).
Good luck KenyaWild, looks like you have a fun, challenging and frustrating project all wrapped up in one.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,715
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From: Tasmania, Australia
They fall into the category of injectors, MAF's, and all the electronic bejeezus boxes, etc, etc, that are really best overhauled, cleaned, repaired and calibrated by experts .... but ... that's not to say that, like any of those things, they can't be done successfully by someone who has the skill and patience.
BTW ... +1 on what Mike said re another title for this thread, would help to draw advice from others who can help.
Thread Starter
AutoX
Joined: May 2012
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Help!!! 1980 MY won't start after 5 year sleep
Thanks for the advice,
I have found that the 2 fuel lines from the front(warm up control) of the have been inserted in the wrong places on the distributor(where they go into the pressure valve) The one that goes down the side next to throttle is kinked as they tried to make it fit! It makes me wonder if the injector tubes are in the correct sequence on the distributor as they are all out of shape? I cant find any diagrams of the positions? Do they run like the distributor as fire order.
Getting there slowly
Marc
I have found that the 2 fuel lines from the front(warm up control) of the have been inserted in the wrong places on the distributor(where they go into the pressure valve) The one that goes down the side next to throttle is kinked as they tried to make it fit! It makes me wonder if the injector tubes are in the correct sequence on the distributor as they are all out of shape? I cant find any diagrams of the positions? Do they run like the distributor as fire order.
Getting there slowly
Marc