Mongo

My driver side power window seems to roll down slow, but rolls up quick. After five minutes later I tried to roll it back down and the sucker would not drop. I pressed hard on the switch and it managed to roll down faster the normal way. After pulling into the garage, I tried rolling the window back down. It doesn't want to drop at all.

My first thoughts are the switch but the slowness may also be a sign of a failing motor. Any thoughts? On a side note I also remember a procedure on how to fix the switch by opening it up. Does anyone have this?

NoVector

My DS window has been acting strange this week too. I was looking around on the Nichols website and a couple tips might help you. The first is a quick "how to test if it's the switch". The other talks about an overload switch on the window motor that can cause it to slow roll.

#1: http://www.nichols.nu/tip165.htm

#2: http://www.nichols.nu/tip165.htm

I didn't see much about taking the switch apart; but one tip recommends doing it while it's in a plastic bag in case the BBs go flying.

fbarnhill

Well, I just fixed my motor issue but broke my glass in the process. I took the motor out and completely clean'd it inside. Took it to a spare battery and tested it several times. I put it back in and it worked well until I broke the window. So, now my problem is worse... The articles mentioned above should help solve the problem. That said, the switch can also cause the issue. My passenger side switch is the old style that came with the car. The drivers side is one of the newer style switches and doesn't work nearly so well. Paul C. Has a kit will solve all your switch woes... Look him up on his website. He and Hans did that project.

Mongo

Gave it another try last night and the down side of the switch does not work at all. Pressing up, the motor is getting power. I am going to replace both switches since the new ones have the symbols comparedbto fixing my faded old ones, which are still original.

Mongo

On a side note, how long did it take for you to access that motor?

Skiviking

I just replaced my drivers window motor and roller guide system, the motor and that can be accessed easily in about 10mins taking off the door card. The first time plan on 20-30mins as finding all the bolts that hold the card in place and clips you want to take your time and not rush as the door card clips can be pulled out if too much pressure is used. I only disconnected the wires to the mirror then was able to slide the card out of the way to access the motor and Guide system. Philips and 10mm nut was all that I needed.

Mongo

Fixed. See page 187 of the "What Did You Do to Your 928 Today."

Part of the plastic retaining the swith internals was interdicting the contacts from touching.

SeanR

This should help.

Edited: Ooops. Leaving the picture here for future search.

fbarnhill

Good post Sean. One thing I should have warned you about was to order some new plugs that attach the door card to the door. I broke at least 3 while removing mine and I knew where they were. They are just so brittle after all this time, they just crumble when you touch them.

Glad you got it fixed.

Sean, do you know of anyone who makes a window switch as good as the origionals? I have been though at least 6 of these latter type and they always mess up after what seems like a short while. I bought none of these from Roger by the way...

I guess I should talk with him about what he has available. I just like the feel of the older ones. They just feel so much more solid.

Cheers,

Mongo

Do not buy the URO Parts switches. Those are the ones that break.

fbarnhill

Thanks Mongo, it seems like that is the only ones I have seen lately. I bought one from Mark Benson used that was old style and it works beautifully. Touch the button and the window goes up and down smoothly. It doesn't take much pressure either. My drivers window switch is new and you have to push the hell out of it to get it to make contact.

Alan

No - the thermal switch is a cut out (on or off - nothing else) slowness can be poor switch connections but is usually related to extra friction in the mechanism, alignment issues or just poor motor connections - cleaning can usually help.

If you have non-relay driven windows (direct connect to the switch) - do not use the late style switches - these are not designed for high current and will not last long - these are the ones that click in operation - only use these for late model cars with window relay controller (later S4's and GTS).

Alan