Hi everyone,
Is there a door locking troubleshooting procedure for S4 and later models available?
Doing some research and through previous postings, I found a Porsche procedure but for older models (vacuum and with the older wiring - 4 wires to the motor instead of 5).
I also had a previous posting where I got some suggestions, but after trying them I have not been able to solve it.

Thanks in advance for the help

 

What's the problem?

I will tell you that the door locks have their own, in-line, glass fuses on wires up above and behind the CE panel. On my '88 I had an issue where one of the fuses lost contact for some reason and the DS lock would no-longer work. Opening and closing the fuse holder fixed the issue (after I'd pulled the door apart to try to track down the problem.)

 

Sorry to hear you still have the problem.
You did check the fuses if I remember correctly, but not just a look - see. Open them, peek internally and make sure they close easily/properly.
I remember you've checked quite a bit, but did you check the wire harnesses that a wrapped and are at the stress point of door motion ? A mishap with a wire(s) here can cause problems on SAME OR THE OPPOSITE OR BOTH SIDES.

Troubleshooting section of the WSM starts on 57 - 21 in Body/Electrics.

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. My problem is that I checked behind the CE and did not find any in-line fuses.
On this model year, I think the door lock fuse is # 1 and is fine.

I found a troubleshooting procedure (attached) but does not reflect the wiring configuration of my car, so I wonder if anyone has a newer one that would apply.

I suspect I have a bad wire somewhere, but cannot find it.

Is there a Relay for the Door Locks?

Is there a newer bulletin that applies to this model year?

(my previous posting with the problem description: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ing-motor.html)

Many thanks for your patience and help

 

You're right. Looks like they did away with the extra in-line fuses, and went to a different lock controller, in 1989.

Well, another thing I can tell you is that I initially pulled the door apart when investigating this issue because I had already, previously, had a wire break just where the wire bundle comes out of its outer sheathing behind the door panel. The wire that had broken was one for the window motor, and it broke clean through, just as if it had been cut.

After I found that the lock problem was actually the fuse, I put the door back together, only to find that the speakers no-longer worked in that door. Pulled it back apart, and found that one of the speaker wires had broken in pretty much the same location as the window motor wire; only, in the case of the speaker wire, the insulation wasn't broken, just the wire inside the insulation was broken.