Feedback PLease; Cup Wheels
#1
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Helllo Everyone,
Need your opinion please:
I am at a quandry, shall I paint or powder coat the Cup Wheels
1. I gather the factory painted the wheels. If I go that route how do I obtain the paint code? Or the closest match. Is there place that can do it?
2. If I go the powder coat route any places I should consider? Cost?
I only know of Weidmann's Wheels.
Hoping to find someone local to the San Francisco Bay Area.
Thank you in advance for your input![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Steve
Need your opinion please:
I am at a quandry, shall I paint or powder coat the Cup Wheels
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
1. I gather the factory painted the wheels. If I go that route how do I obtain the paint code? Or the closest match. Is there place that can do it?
2. If I go the powder coat route any places I should consider? Cost?
I only know of Weidmann's Wheels.
Hoping to find someone local to the San Francisco Bay Area.
Thank you in advance for your input
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Steve
#2
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That's such a beautiful car - regardless of whether it has chromed, painted or powder coated wheels...
I had my wheels powder coated through DEVEK at the time. I don't know who actually did the work, but they came out beautifully. Now that they got some scratches, I'm wondering how I'm going to repair that. Paint is probably easier to remove and redo when it becomes necessary. I have no idea, if you can just blast off the powder coat and start over, but it's something I would consider before doing it again.
But if you want to make the car as original looking as possible, you should go the paint route. I don't think Weidmann does powder coating.
I had my wheels powder coated through DEVEK at the time. I don't know who actually did the work, but they came out beautifully. Now that they got some scratches, I'm wondering how I'm going to repair that. Paint is probably easier to remove and redo when it becomes necessary. I have no idea, if you can just blast off the powder coat and start over, but it's something I would consider before doing it again.
But if you want to make the car as original looking as possible, you should go the paint route. I don't think Weidmann does powder coating.
#3
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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Paint is best. Less expensive, easier to touch up.
I'm sure there are a few places in the Bay Area that will make the wheels true, repair any deep scratches or scuffs and paint. If no one offers up a local shop I'd post in the Off Topic (OT) forum.
I'm sure there are a few places in the Bay Area that will make the wheels true, repair any deep scratches or scuffs and paint. If no one offers up a local shop I'd post in the Off Topic (OT) forum.
#5
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The factory painted the wheels and it's easier and best for good touch ups ... and it doesn't matter how careful you are small scratches happen.
Here's what you can achieve with paint. A good wheel refinisher should be able to match the colour without any code.
Here's what you can achieve with paint. A good wheel refinisher should be able to match the colour without any code.
#6
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Hi Dave,
Very nice wheels!!!
Any chance yours are for sale.? I prefer the 94~95 wheels. But slim chance in finding a set for sale, specific to the 928.
Any paint code available ? Looking like paint is the way to go.
Thanks
Ss
Very nice wheels!!!
Any chance yours are for sale.? I prefer the 94~95 wheels. But slim chance in finding a set for sale, specific to the 928.
Any paint code available ? Looking like paint is the way to go.
Thanks
Ss
#7
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There have been multiple threads why you should never powercoat wheels.
There was a thread in the racing forum years ago with a rep from BBS explaing why aluminum wheels should not be powercoated by anyone other than the manufacturer at the time of their production. Had something to do with heat cycles and the baking process.
This past weekend I was reminded of another reason why, as the wheels came loose on a car running around the track. The powdercoating interfeared with the clearances mating to the hub and even with proper bolt torque......it was almost a very bad situation. Luckily the driver realized something was wrong before the wheel flew off at speed.
There was a thread in the racing forum years ago with a rep from BBS explaing why aluminum wheels should not be powercoated by anyone other than the manufacturer at the time of their production. Had something to do with heat cycles and the baking process.
This past weekend I was reminded of another reason why, as the wheels came loose on a car running around the track. The powdercoating interfeared with the clearances mating to the hub and even with proper bolt torque......it was almost a very bad situation. Luckily the driver realized something was wrong before the wheel flew off at speed.
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#8
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How about aluminum polish? A good polish can give you a very striking look, without the ugly 'trying so hard' look of chrome. I think either a high luster or mirror polish would look great on that silver, and you can probably get it done for about 100-150 per wheel (or DIY if you have time).
#9
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Alan at Fikse Wheels suggested the centers of the FM5's on my GTS to be painted Porsche Artic Silver Code: L92T. That GTS looks fabulous without the rubstrips. T
#10
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I painted my Cup I's with duplicolor silver wheel paint, I picked up a checker O'reileys one can of silver and one can of clear. The color matches factory pretty closely.
I just lightly sanded each wheel and followed directions on the can and they came out super nice.
I used spot puty on a couple of bad spots to fill larger chips.
For a cost of around $20 and an afternoon
I would/will do it again very happy with the products been almost a year.
I just lightly sanded each wheel and followed directions on the can and they came out super nice.
I used spot puty on a couple of bad spots to fill larger chips.
For a cost of around $20 and an afternoon
I would/will do it again very happy with the products been almost a year.
#12
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Ok ! NO power coat for me. I forgot the baking process of powder coat.
At SITP2011 several pointed how original and untampered the car is. I will go with the flow, ......if the factory painted it seems fitting to follow along those lines.
Sorry not into the Polished
If anyone knows other paint that match, or resemble the factory please feel free to pass it on.
Thank you Tony for lead on paint code L92T
Ss
At SITP2011 several pointed how original and untampered the car is. I will go with the flow, ......if the factory painted it seems fitting to follow along those lines.
Sorry not into the Polished
If anyone knows other paint that match, or resemble the factory please feel free to pass it on.
Thank you Tony for lead on paint code L92T
Ss
#13
Nordschleife Master
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I presume these are the actual wheels that came w/ your GTS (just like my '92 BTW) and what you will find is whoever does the job will not remove the TPWS sensors before the sand blast the wheels and those VERY EXPENSIVE bits will be ruined. You can remove them but it will require special tools that cost nearly $200 as well as new "nuts" that hold them on (most of the original ones will be corroded and complete junk) as well as new seals for each sensor.
A young lady side swiped my car 3 years ago and the Porsche dealer owned paint shop did the work and they ruined all of my TPWS sensors. SO NICE! A-holes! They did great work otherwise (and btw, they sent the wheels out...they did not do them in house).
A young lady side swiped my car 3 years ago and the Porsche dealer owned paint shop did the work and they ruined all of my TPWS sensors. SO NICE! A-holes! They did great work otherwise (and btw, they sent the wheels out...they did not do them in house).
#15
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I painted my Cup I's with duplicolor silver wheel paint, I picked up a checker O'reileys one can of silver and one can of clear. The color matches factory pretty closely.
I just lightly sanded each wheel and followed directions on the can and they came out super nice.
I used spot puty on a couple of bad spots to fill larger chips.
For a cost of around $20 and an afternoon
I would/will do it again very happy with the products been almost a year.
I just lightly sanded each wheel and followed directions on the can and they came out super nice.
I used spot puty on a couple of bad spots to fill larger chips.
For a cost of around $20 and an afternoon
I would/will do it again very happy with the products been almost a year.