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Antiseize on oil drain plugs?

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Old 04-18-2012, 01:52 PM
  #16  
NoVector
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Originally Posted by whatudrivin
Added to my next order of parts.... Is there enough clearance to use the one with the nipple for the hose?
I asked the same thing from another Renlister when he posted this. Nope, no need for the nipple with a hose.

Originally Posted by S4ordie
Is there an issue with mixing dissimilar metals? That drain valve does not look like aluminum. This causes significant problems on boats. Perhaps not here. I'm not a metallurgist.
Dan - I dunno. Fumoto (the maker) has been around for at least 12-13 years that I know. And I see they’ve got the thumbs-up (Genuine Part label) from Toyota, Mazda, Nissan, Isuzu, Subaru and other rice-burners which I assume are aluminum blocks. I know the one thing I felt I was “giving up” was a drain plug with a magnet in it, but… Now having the ability to change oil in a white leisure suit is priceless
Old 04-18-2012, 01:57 PM
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whatudrivin
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Will the drain plug allow for bits of metal to come out? seems to be a small stream/opening from the video on their site
Old 04-18-2012, 02:08 PM
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mx22
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Just ordered that plug as well, got the version with short niple.
Old 04-30-2012, 12:46 PM
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mx22
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I've replaced the drain plug with Fumoto on Saturday. A couple of things to keep in mind:

I've bought the valve in this link: http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f105s-valve.html Basically same valve as shown in pictures above, but with a plastic attachment to to connect vinyl tubing to - I figured it's a great idea to make oil change even less messy. Looking back, I should have purchased the valve with a metal attachment already fixed on the valve. Plastic attachment is nice and easy to put on, but is hard to remove - I guess I'll know next year if I can remove it without messing up how tight the valve sits on the oil pan...

Fumoto valve comes with its own blue colored gasket. Looks like its cork or something like that - it's rather soft. When I initially tightened the valve, I found that gasket split. Removed the valve and noticed that gasket was glued to the valve in one place. Not sure if this somehow caused the gasket to split... It was a bit of a dilemma if I should put back the original drain plug or go ahead with Fumoto valve with a Porsche gasket - Fumoto gasket is really wide and extends past the valve edges, Porsche one is much slimmer. I decided to see if I Porsche gasket would do the job and went with it. So far so good, but I'll keep checking oil level...
Old 04-30-2012, 03:01 PM
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dprantl
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I'm not really a fan of those valves. Just another potential point of failure only to make an oil change job 30 seconds faster. Torque the stock drain plug properly with a new washer every time and never have any problems.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 04-30-2012, 07:54 PM
  #21  
polecat702
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That valve looks like it's made of brass.

"BRASS IS IMCOMPATIBLE" with aluminum! per MIL SFD 889B (and notices 1,2 and 3 thereof) Dissimilar metals. Galvanic action will eat up the aluminum.

It's your engine, but I'd stick with the factory plug. There's a reason none of the OEM engine builders use these plugs.

I do have 50 plus years in metallurgy.
Old 04-30-2012, 10:57 PM
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dr bob
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I've had good luck with Teflon thread sealing paste in the threads and on both faces of the sealing washer. It's slippery so I just snug the drain plug gently (15-20 lbs/ft only) and call it good. Seals great, with no worries about leakage.

The drain valves seem like a good idea, but... It's something that might get broken off in a shunt or by crap on the road. Plus, by the time the belly pans are off, removing a drain plug is the easiest part of the project.
Old 04-30-2012, 11:57 PM
  #23  
MainePorsche
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Originally Posted by polecat702
That valve looks like it's made of brass.

"BRASS IS IMCOMPATIBLE" with aluminum! per MIL SFD 889B (and notices 1,2 and 3 thereof) Dissimilar metals. Galvanic action will eat up the aluminum.

It's your engine, but I'd stick with the factory plug. There's a reason none of the OEM engine builders use these plugs.

I do have 50 plus years in metallurgy.
Ditto, though I'm not a metallurgist. I do have a degree in biochemistry and am familiar with the process. Same reason you don't mix copper with other metals in the pipes in your house.
Old 05-01-2012, 01:02 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by whatudrivin
Will the drain plug allow for bits of metal to come out? seems to be a small stream/opening from the video on their site
That would be the least of your worries of Chunks care coming out/blocking the flow...

I have used the futmo on my cummins and have one on my murano. I should get one for sharky, hate the oil fountain that almost hits the wheel...
Old 05-01-2012, 09:56 AM
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WyattsRide
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Changing the oil and filter in my Shark is easier than any car I've ever had or have.....just sayin'
Old 05-01-2012, 10:12 AM
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jeff spahn
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Damn. Is there a paste or other thing you can put on the threads to keep the corrosion from happening?
Old 05-01-2012, 11:19 AM
  #27  
John Speake
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I use a vaccum extractor - the type of thing used in boats. Pulls up all the oil through the dipstick tube.

The first few times I used it I pulled out all the oil and then removed the drain plug - not a drop came out. So now I don't even bother.
Old 05-01-2012, 11:52 AM
  #28  
supercedar
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I have had that drain valve on my dump truck for 460,000 miles (oil change every 5,000) since 1997 and never a problem.
Thomas



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