bradartigue

I removed and replaced that Y shaped coolant thing (note to previous owner: Permatex is not a substitute for a huge rubber O-ring) and in the process cracked the wiring to the cold start injector and to the WUR.

The WUR one I fixed to get the car started, but it wouldn't start. I'm not shocked, this car has had starting problems since I got it, and here are the questions:

1) Is the ignition in any way dependent upon the WUR being connected / as in, even if the car doesn't start I should still get a spark, yes?

2) Is there any connection between the CIS components and the Bosch electronic ignition that could impair spark?

Obviously my car has no spark. I measured the coil and had no consistent reading (jumped all all of the place) and too low resistance between 4 and 15. So I ordered a new coil.

I just want to be certain that I'm not overlooking some dependency on the CIS wiring that will impact the actual generation of a spark.

Thanks

jpitman2

I dont think there is a inter-connection between any CIS wiring and ignition box....but I may be wrong. I would suspect more likely you have damaged the GREEN wire that runs across the front from the dizzy to the ign box on the RHS inner fender..
jp 83 Euro S (CIS) AT 54k

SMTCapeCod

THere is, but it is not the one you are looking for, courtesy Dennis Wilson:

"John,

Check the connections at the ignition module and the resistors in front of the left fender well. The fuel pump relay needs a run signal on pin 15 or it will kill power to the pump after a few seconds. Another way to check it is by jumping the 30 and 87 connectors, start the car then check for 12 volts at the 15 connector.

Dennis
__________________"

jpitman2

Dennis,
Correct as usual, but that logic is not specific to CIS, and its in the opposite direction to what the OP asked - ie spark pulse failure kills fuel supply....not a CIS issue kills spark.
Nit picking can be fun .
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

SMTCapeCod

I clipped that from a Dennis response in another thread... he didn't post it here.


Regarding 'opposite direction', I concur- please note caveat that included "...this is not the one that you are looking for"

Podguy

I vote for the green wire. After that bad connections in the plug by the ignition module. Solder connections can be bad in that connector causing all kinds of intermittent problems.

Roy928tt

The ignition is stand alone.

Coil voltages ARE strange, but not erratic.

In my experience the components are idiot proof, me of course being the idiot.

People experience problems with the Green Wire, rather than the coil.

good luck

bradartigue

I realized while pouring through coil posts that the coil I have isn't correct, it is a Bosch blue. I still have to think coil given the erratic resistance readings that mostly register low but never really stop being erratic!

Green wire is new. I will check it on Friday, I hope I did not damage it, was pretty careful to keep it out of the way. The other CIS wires were simply brittle; so brittle they cracked. Replacements are coming for those.

So, question answered, they aren't connected. The wiring diagram supports this but I've learned it doesn't always tell the whole story.


Thanks!

Brad

GlenL

Are you checking the coil in the car with the wires connected?

Have you confirmed that it isn't sparking with a timing light or somehow else?

bradartigue

I am testing it per the service manual for voltage and resistance. I am also using a timing light to confirm there is no spark.

bradartigue

Coil replaced with a Bosch unit from 928srus, started on the very first nudge of the key. Problem solved, at least on that front. Now I'm back to a previous issue, fantastic power until warmed up, then it is absolutely gutless. WUR, you bitch...

jpitman2

Do you have a gauge set to check control pressure? When my WUR went south it was as you say, gutless hot - barely able to get to 20mph, and a very light throttle. Control was up to 60psi hot, with system at 75psi. I would bet on a blockage in WUR - brass gauze filters in the inlet are at the top of the list. One I dismantled had FIVE layers of filter. Its usually pretty hard to get them out without destroying them - dismantle interior, blow the filters out from inside the regulator, and I have found BURNing the crud off, and then washing in a solvent works best to clean the filter assy. You NEED the gauge set to verify whats happening though.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

bradartigue

I have the gauge and the high pressure is way too high. Explains fully the amazing acceleration until hot, then the pathetic, gutless, limp-home "mode" you end up with. This motor runs too good for this to be going on. I am going to remove the WUR and dismantle, clean, and reset the pressure plug. I bought a tap to make the plug adjustable from the top. If all fails I'm just going to replace the WUR, I think it has already been tampered with anyway so I'll give it one good old try and then it hits the core bin.

Podguy

check the cat - if you have one.

Podguy

There are articles on the net about adjusting the WUR. One method includes tapping certain places with a hammer. Another is to embed a screw into the WUR and adjust it for the best running point. Sometimes even a new WUR will be out of adjustment.