Time for a new clutch MC and blue hose
08-18-2015, 09:29 PM
#18
Team Owner
I would suggest to use PTFE loctite pipe sealant dont use teflon tape on the bleeder threads.
NOTE the Brembo Blue hose is infact silicone hose wrapped with thread,
and thus not affected by brake fluid blends.
NOTE If you use ATE super Gold fluid you should not have any issues.
NOTE mixing fluids can cause seals to swell and thus the operation will eventually fail.
NOTE when fitting Greg Browns flex line to the slave and with the slave gravity bled till the bubbles stop, try simply pushing the slave piston to its fully retracted position,
and then letting it out,
This should be sufficient to remove any air in the MC.
NOTE the Brembo Blue hose is infact silicone hose wrapped with thread,
and thus not affected by brake fluid blends.
NOTE If you use ATE super Gold fluid you should not have any issues.
NOTE mixing fluids can cause seals to swell and thus the operation will eventually fail.
NOTE when fitting Greg Browns flex line to the slave and with the slave gravity bled till the bubbles stop, try simply pushing the slave piston to its fully retracted position,
and then letting it out,
This should be sufficient to remove any air in the MC.
08-18-2015, 09:47 PM
#19
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The blue hose from Porsche is no longer blue but black - the infamous black hose.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
08-18-2015, 11:58 PM
#22
Team Owner
The US EPA decided that blue brake fluid wasnt the correct color that was assigned to brake fluid,
this color could be misconstrued as washer fluid or coolant neither is good for brake systems,
Thus it was banned for sale in the good Ole USA
this color could be misconstrued as washer fluid or coolant neither is good for brake systems,
Thus it was banned for sale in the good Ole USA
08-19-2015, 12:35 AM
#23
Nordschleife Master
08-19-2015, 03:04 PM
#24
I changed out my master with one from pelican. If you use the right part number (two options) you won't have to change a thing. The big deal is the adjustment at the top of the swing pedal. get that right and you will be happy. Sometimes your own judgement is better than book specs.
08-19-2015, 03:26 PM
#25
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
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I replaced mine with transmission cooler hose from NAPA. That was two or so years ago with no issues so far. MUCH easier to get it on the stupid floating fitting they used. Damn Germans should have banjo bolted that hose fitting to a hard line to near the reservoir.
08-20-2015, 02:17 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Quick update:
I verify the pedal adjustment - no preload so MC piston is allowed to come all the way up.
Put thread sealant on the slave cylinder bleeding screw. I used Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant (with PTFE).
Then, reverse bleeding using Jim recommandation (3 x 10 pushes with 1 hour between each) :
Clutch now firm again.
The clutch master do make some noise (fluid transfer) when I press the pedal 1 or 2 inches. Is that normal?
I verify the pedal adjustment - no preload so MC piston is allowed to come all the way up.
Put thread sealant on the slave cylinder bleeding screw. I used Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant (with PTFE).
Then, reverse bleeding using Jim recommandation (3 x 10 pushes with 1 hour between each) :
With the slave removed from the bellhousing, and connected, you want to slowly push the clutch rod into the slave, full travel until it hits the stop. Hold it there a few seconds to give the fluid a chance to move and the air to escape, and then slowly release the rod and let the spring push it back out-- slowly, so it has a chance to refill from the reservoir. If you have a helper then they will see the fluid rise in the reservoir, and hopefully some bubbles.
If you have a pressure-bleeder then hook that up to the reservoir to help push fluid towards the slave, when the rod is (slowly) released. Not a lot of pressure, 5 psi should be enough.
If you have a pressure-bleeder then hook that up to the reservoir to help push fluid towards the slave, when the rod is (slowly) released. Not a lot of pressure, 5 psi should be enough.
The clutch master do make some noise (fluid transfer) when I press the pedal 1 or 2 inches. Is that normal?
08-20-2015, 08:20 PM
#27
Team Owner
from this it sounds like you have air trapped in the MC,
I would remove the snap ring and let the piston come out a bit to remove any more air in the top of the MC,
put some rags down on the floor first.
I would remove the snap ring and let the piston come out a bit to remove any more air in the top of the MC,
put some rags down on the floor first.
08-21-2015, 12:48 PM
#28
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks Stan....
Since I always bleed the clutch using ramps (front is higher than the rear), can that be an issue - air not getting out of the system with the reverse bleeding method ?
Since I always bleed the clutch using ramps (front is higher than the rear), can that be an issue - air not getting out of the system with the reverse bleeding method ?
08-22-2015, 12:53 AM
#29
Team Owner
yes I would put the car on a lift or on 4 jack stands so its level, it may be possible that you have the feed ;line positioned to a place where it is not in a constant rise and has an air pocket
08-30-2015, 05:14 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I can hear the same sound from the MC (fluid transfer). Looks like the MC is sucking air ...
The MC on the car is a FTE. Are you using Porsche or *** or FTE?
*** is what I see available now in Canada.