Finally got the door locks to work. I sent a set pulled from a wrecked car to be rekeyed and installed them this weekend. Passenger lock had never worked in the 2 years I have owned her.

Once both sides were back in and I had run the car to my total surprise, based on what I have read here, the vacuum door locks actually worked The passenger door locks and unlocks and unlocks when I lock and unlock the drivers door with the key.

As usual though with every victory comes a surprise. I used the key to lock the car and a short time later walked passed and pushed on the hatch and the horn started blarring and did not go off until I used the key to unlock the drivers door. I relocked the door and no horn.

My owners manual has langauge about an optional alarm but states that the alarm is intermintant for 30 secs or until the key is used to unlock the door.

I always assumed I did not have an alarm as my back hatch lock has no wiring running to it. The door locks did and new ones do as well have the alarm wirining and there are connectors in the door for them. I can't find the alarm circuit in the 79 wiring diagram. Does the alarm use the horn? Where is the alarm module?

 

Yup...you have the alarm my friend and it seems to be working... 30 sec??? I thought it was 2 min... Anyway, mine have always gone off long enough for me to unlock the door to turn them off and I am pretty sure that is always more than 30 sec!

 

Have to admit I did not time it

I am relying on the owners manual for that gem.

Still not sure what triggered it to go off.

 

The alarm is triggered by the interior lights going on. Your hatch reciever has a switch on the bottom pushiing on the hatch and letting it pop back up might have set it off.

 

My interior lights have not worked off the door switches since I bought the car. I can turn them on manually at the light but have not had a chance to get to those yet.

Wiring diagram would be a big help. Anyone know why this system is not in the wiring diagram and perhaps someone has a diagram of the system?

 

Use 97-153 - should be very similar.

Monitors doors (L/R), hatch & hood and is activated (armed/disarmed) by each door lock and the hatch lock (note hatch lock does work both ways open/disarm & arm)

Alan

 

Umm, I have the J Morehouse CD, is it in there?

 

Look at the end of the 82 wiring diagram set

Alan

 

Interior light wiring is pretty simple. The lights are always powered, opening a door grounds the circuit, switching the light on manually just grounds it at the light. In my experiance the first place to look for repair is the fuse, usually replaced with an aluminum replacement and all corroded to hell. If the fuse is blown then usually the light itself had grounded out to the body, usually from stiff wiring. I just make up some little pigtails to lengthen the wires with some new softer wire. That usually cures the problem as long as the light itself isn't melted or mangle which is usually the case, new ones are cheap and with new LEDs never melt I always lube them up well too. After that is the door switches hardly ever have a prob except for over zellos body guys who forget to hook them up or have paint all over them. Its really nice to open the door at night and have the light come on. The wife/GF will love you more for it.
If you want to disconnect the alarm the speaker/horn is under the PS fender under the cowl next to the heater fan, real PITA to get out weighs a ton too. Heater fan has to come out to get it out if I recall and there is a little screen in the way that is a PITA to get out too... good luck .

 

So I do have an alarm module behind the vent hose in the glove box area but I do not have a wire coming from the hatch lock assembly as illustrated in the WSM.

When I lock the car doors and depress the rear hatch while close just slightly the alarm sounds? Is the wiring for the hatch portion of the alrm connected to the lower hatch lock receiver assembly? Can this be adjusted?