MainePorsche

Here's the preamble:
After removing the shoddily placed Code Alarm (to address a gremlin - see Tricky AC problem post), I note an issue with the Drivers door lock when I now exclusively use the key. Key will open (L) door. (R) door will not open or lock using (L) key port. Using (R) key or central button, (L) lock will function normally. Light switches function as should.
Here's the question:
Do you think it is the contact switch (928.537.713.02) on the door lock cylinder ?
If so, is it worth the disassemble/assemble ? In light of having it re-keyed (?) if I purchase a new cylinder ?

Thanks In Advance

Craig

WallyP

What I think that you are saying: If you unlock/lock the car from the driver's door, the passenger's door does not unlock. If you lock/unlock the car from the passenger's door, the driver's door locks/unlocks as it should.

Yes, sounds like the contacts on the driver's door switch are not working. If your alarm is working correctly, it should sound off if you unlock and open the driver's door.

Disassemble and inspect. Make sure that the key actually turns the switch. Make sure that the wires to the switch have continuity. You can check by closing the door, then connecting/disconnecting the wires with a jumper to simulate the switch. If the locking system works with the jumper, the wires, etc. are OK, and the switch is the problem. If the locking system still doesn't work, you have a wiring problem.

MainePorsche

Thanks Wally. Will do.

Podguy

There is a left and right on the alarm switch. Again don't ask me how I know.

MainePorsche

Thanks Dan.
The L switch is 928.537.713.02
The R switch is 928.537.714.02.
Dan, any caveats or tips for disassemble/assembly of the cylinder ?
Craig

Podguy

I just looked and there is no page on the door locks on my site. I think this was intentional as I did not want to post a public page on how to re-key a lock.

You will need a key to hold the tumbler. The tumbler is held in place with a pin. Do not try to drive the pin in to release the tumbler you will end up damaging the tumbler beyond all recognition. There may be a safe place when the tumbler is turned but most locks I get do not have keys.

I use a small 1/8 or less drill bit to drill the cylinder. I drill a hole at a 45 degree angle to the pin and stop when I hit the pin. You can look in the drilled hole until you see brass. I then use a pick to put upward pressure on the pin. It should slide out easily enough. Save the pin.

There are only four tumblers - 1 - 4 each with a number on the end. Inspect them for wear. You can sort around the tumblers until the key works. Be sure none of the little springs get lost. It is a good idea to clean off the old gease and use some graphic grease for lube. Once all the correct tumblers are in place I insert the key and check the smoothness. If some of the tumblers are not quite even they will catch when the lock is used. To make things work smoothly I use a flat file to smooth things up. Remember you are working with old and worn parts so a little tuning is often necessary.

After things are ready I mix up some JB weld - coat the pin and put some down the pin hold. The rest of the JB weld I use to fill the hole I drilled to get access to the pin.

This method has always worked for me. My 78 door locks broke in the first year.

MainePorsche

Guys,
Door panel off and Driver lock cylinder out with interesting finding.

Cylinder is part 928.537.633.05 - THERE ARE NO THREADED HOLES FOR SCREWS FOR CONTACT SWITCH. RES IPSA LOQUITOR,THERE IS NO CONTACT SWITCH. I DO FIND MALE END OF A 3 LEAD PIGTAIL IN THERE WITHOUT ITS MATE. THE WIRES ARE BROWN, BROWN-RED AND BROWN-GREEN.

I THOUGHT THE CYLINDERS WERE 928.537.901(903).02

What do I have here ? Is this a PO hack ?
Thanks

Craig

Edit: the measurement is 29mm from lip to center of mounting bolt hole is seen on page 57-25 of the WSM

MainePorsche

Found on PET the ...603.05 is 'with stipulated lock number' and the ...903.02 is w/o stipulated lock number.
Guess it's time to order a 903.02 cylinder and L contact switch
The ...603.05 cylinder appears not to be constructed for electrical connection with alarm system via contact switch. Looks very different from the ...903.02 on page 57-25 WSM

dfrhodes

Sounds like you have non-alarm locks. Isn't your problem with central locking though? If so, you probably want to focus on the cam switch that sits on top of the lock motor (and associated circuit).

If you can disconnect the spring linkage to the motor, try turning the cam by hand and it should start turning on it's own for half a revolution. if not, make sure you have 12V at the motor connector. If it works, you may just need to adjust the linkage and motor mount. This is detailed in the WSM

Podguy

Pictures of your locks ?

MainePorsche

Gentlemen,
Problem solved.
Tested the 4 prong plug to motor control. no voltage at any lead (whether locked or unlocked). Stripped harness and found 3 severed wires - blue/white, white/black, and BROWN. Diligently repaired all and 4 prong leads tested appropriately. Lock function also back to normal. As a WYAIT, did the 'cheap fix' with a large nylon tie to address the window rattle at the beginning of opening with success.
My 'bad' with the cylinder. Thought I had a non functioning factory alarm - I guess not. I tried reading the option codes in the rear hatch area, but too faded to make out all the numbers reliably.
Thanks again for all your input and advice.
Craig