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Old 03-20-2012, 02:06 AM
  #16  
Andre Hedrick
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The lower strut bar allows you to expand the frame for more negative camber, then return it back to normal for the drive home.
Old 03-20-2012, 02:09 AM
  #17  
Speedtoys
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So its OK to stress those spot welded bits your way, but you need the bar to prevent the same abuse the -other- way?
Old 03-20-2012, 02:28 AM
  #18  
RKD in OKC
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I thought the idea of the lower strut bar was to hold the camber you already have when the car is under heavy corner loads, not adjusting at the track.
Old 03-20-2012, 02:44 AM
  #19  
Andre Hedrick
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Holding the position is the point of the bar. I am pointing out other uses of the bar. How much flex is in the system without it currently? Things break when there is lots of flexing right?

Anyways, it could/would be used for fine tuning and not multiple degrees of change.
Old 03-20-2012, 02:49 AM
  #20  
Speedtoys
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Id probly consider other methods, than putting new stress on components not meant to have that adjustment.

You acnt get shorter/adjustable uppers?
Old 03-20-2012, 03:10 AM
  #21  
Andre Hedrick
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I don't use it to change the camber after the initial setup and it has been fixed in position since then. I will tell you that it has reduced under steer, and allows me to point the car and it goes. Below 30 and hard acceleration in a circle turn has very slight under steer and once 35 and above it changes to predictable and controllable over steer.

Put into Google Maps "37.867763,-122.251877" there is a fantastic round-about the test left turn under/over steer. I will never admit to doing this but it has the right setup for such tests.
Old 03-20-2012, 09:07 AM
  #22  
RKD in OKC
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Tuning that sweet spot between understeer and oversteer under hard acceleration is what I use the front adjustable Koni rebound for. If there are more slow tight turns I firm the rebound up to kill the corner speed robbing understeer. If there are more larger high speed esses and turns, I soften the front rebound to get more overall stick on the higher speed turns.
Old 03-20-2012, 02:10 PM
  #23  
jWs-928
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Steven,

i did my first AutoX this past weekend too, and had the exact same concerns ...thanks for posting ! Where did you do go for your autox ?

I have done a few DE events prior to this first AutoX and i can definately say that i prefer the DE experience. Dont feel like you need to master autox before moving to DE.

Being in NC like you, i highly reccommend Roebling Raceway in Savannah as a great track to start out with.... lots long sweeping turns and plenty of safe run off space.

Old 03-20-2012, 02:25 PM
  #24  
brutus
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Autocross can be a wild exciting but brief experience of driving at 11/ tenths. Just somewhat out of control and at rather low speeds with nothing but cones to hit ! Good D E drivers are smooth with little drama not overworking the tires, brakes or throttle. Two very different skill sets both fun !
Old 03-20-2012, 10:04 PM
  #25  
yardpro
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mine was in havelock nc.

i do understand that they are very different.
I wanted to do the autocross to shake down the car and me.
Old 03-20-2012, 10:20 PM
  #26  
fraggle
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With real moto racing experience you already are far ahead of the DE novice. You've got ideas of setting an optimum line, traction circles and the like. If you get a good instructors you'll catch on quickly. Work up to it a bit, I found my instructor not quite realizing that I was in a 3600lb 928 with 300+hp instead of a 944, so we cooked the brakes using his markers.
Using the auto-X as a shakedown isn't a bad idea either. Besides it's a blast!
Old 03-20-2012, 11:47 PM
  #27  
yardpro
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lol.. it was a lit of fun..

i would like to do a few more. The come close by so they are easy and cheap for me to do.
I found myself wanting a longer higher speed track though...i prefer corners at 80 rather than 20...

from motocross, i know that smooth is fast, i know about breaking points, picking lines, and holding my line.. too bad there are no 120 foot triples to bust out with the 928....lol
Old 03-21-2012, 12:09 PM
  #28  
IcemanG17
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RKD has great advice....

street 928's with stock alignment settings WILL understeer quite a bit...but they are designed that way....

dialing in tire pressures, running the same size tires all around & adjusting camber-toe to proper "race" settings will improve things a bunch..... I run near zero toe all around.....with even 1/8-1/4" toe in the rear will make the car very hard to rotate....granted my 928's are pure race...zero street driving...camber-caster is maxed....camber is about 2.5' all around....

another ??? how old are your shocks? try this test.....push down on the center of the rear hatch, just above the bumper....give it a hard push down.....how far down does it go? How many "bounces" does it do? anything more than 1 slight rebound is too much

Here is a video of me chasing a street S4 with worn suspension....watch how much it rolls & squats

Here is mine, with bilstein-eibach combo (springs cut -1.5 springs)

huge difference in how the car moves
Old 03-21-2012, 12:51 PM
  #29  
whatudrivin
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hahahahaha I love the commentary at the end of the video with the Lotus? .... !!!!!
Old 03-21-2012, 01:56 PM
  #30  
RKD in OKC
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If you want to drive fast DE is the place to go.

If you want quick reactions Autocross is where it's at.

Even though autocross is slower in overall speed, the corners are smaller and require more inputs in less time. Tracks typically have 11 turns in a 2 minute lap where autocross has 20 turns in a 1 minute lap. You also have to learn your line, brake zones, apexes, etc. a LOT quicker as you only get a few laps not 20 minute sessions.


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