DIY PSD-unit swap out procedure.
01-04-2017, 03:35 PM
#17
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14-16. Remove all the three (3) electrical connectors, and then remove the 2 left side screws. Remove the old PSD-unit (it takes a bit of manouvering, be patient).
Attachment 613397
Attachment 613398
Attachment 613399
17. This shows me measuring the old PSD-unit solenoid, which shows 2.7 ohm and is within spec.
Attachment 613400
18. This shows me measuring the old PSD-unit pump coils, which shows 0.6 ohm meaning short circuit = fried...
Attachment 613401
19. Because you have now removed the PSD-unit and thereby disconnected the solenoid connector resulting into an open circuit for the combined ABS-PSD electronic unit on this: the next time you will start your car you will get an ABS failure warning.
Attachment 613402
20. Obviously you already had the PSD failure warning, or if not then you now will have that too.
Attachment 613403
21-24. This shows the new reservoir and the fact that is has a build in filter (which can not be exchanged, bummer...). Harald was so kind to provide me a new one as part of the PSD-unit swap deal we agreed upon.
Attachment 613404
Attachment 613405
Attachment 613406
Attachment 613408
25-26. And this is the fully reconditioned and 2 year warranted swapped out PSD-unit. Solenoid shows 2.7 ohm and the pump shows 3.5 ohm (both good, obviously).
Attachment 613409
Attachment 613410
More to follow...
Attachment 613397
Attachment 613398
Attachment 613399
17. This shows me measuring the old PSD-unit solenoid, which shows 2.7 ohm and is within spec.
Attachment 613400
18. This shows me measuring the old PSD-unit pump coils, which shows 0.6 ohm meaning short circuit = fried...
Attachment 613401
19. Because you have now removed the PSD-unit and thereby disconnected the solenoid connector resulting into an open circuit for the combined ABS-PSD electronic unit on this: the next time you will start your car you will get an ABS failure warning.
Attachment 613402
20. Obviously you already had the PSD failure warning, or if not then you now will have that too.
Attachment 613403
21-24. This shows the new reservoir and the fact that is has a build in filter (which can not be exchanged, bummer...). Harald was so kind to provide me a new one as part of the PSD-unit swap deal we agreed upon.
Attachment 613404
Attachment 613405
Attachment 613406
Attachment 613408
25-26. And this is the fully reconditioned and 2 year warranted swapped out PSD-unit. Solenoid shows 2.7 ohm and the pump shows 3.5 ohm (both good, obviously).
Attachment 613409
Attachment 613410
More to follow...
Åke
01-13-2017, 12:06 PM
#18
PSD Rear Bracket Bolt Missing-Causing bad rattle
My PSD rear bracket and mounting point is different than Arnoud's picture. Mine just has a hole in it that a bolt goes through and I can feel a hole in the structure that it mounts to but I have not been able to identify the correct bolt to replace. I've tried 10 & 12 mm (head) bolts but they are too loose. Does anyone know if it is a sheet metal type bolt instead of a fine threaded bolt? unable to get a good look because of the confined area. TIA
01-13-2017, 12:46 PM
#19
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Tracy, take a closer look at this picture of the back side of the PSD unit. In the middle is a right angle bracket with a 6mm bolt attached. In the picture the bracket is not positioned correctly, the bolt should face down vertically. When the unit is installed in the vehicle the bolt is going through a bracket attached to the chassi. It is hold by a 6mm nut (10mm socket) which you get to from below, remove the large horizontal aluminum sheet metal below the PSD unit. Also do check out the picture on Bildtafel 305-05 in the Spare Part Catalog.
http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf...95_KATALOG.pdf
http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf...95_KATALOG.pdf
01-13-2017, 12:56 PM
#20
Mine does not have the 6mm bolt attached as shown in the picture (just a hole through the bracket) nor does it have the mounting area attachment point on the vehicle as shown in the pics above. I'll try to get a good pic this weekend.
02-28-2017, 08:32 AM
#21
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If air is in the PSD-system priming of the system can be kind of tricky as mentioned on this forum before. The suction function of the pump is very limited making it difficult to get the fluid into the system. The Workshop Manual tells you to put some air pressure 1,5 to 2,0 bar (22 to 29 psi) into the top of the fluid container.
I tried another method which worked very good. Connecting a Mityvac vacuum-pump to the bleeder valve on the locking solenoid, the vacuum immediately made the fluid to enter/prime the system. When the system was primed the flushing/bleeding procedure was no trouble at all to perform.
Åke
I tried another method which worked very good. Connecting a Mityvac vacuum-pump to the bleeder valve on the locking solenoid, the vacuum immediately made the fluid to enter/prime the system. When the system was primed the flushing/bleeding procedure was no trouble at all to perform.
Åke
03-01-2017, 03:39 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
If air is in the PSD-system priming of the system can be kind of tricky as mentioned on this forum before. The suction function of the pump is very limited making it difficult to get the fluid into the system. The Workshop Manual tells you to put some air pressure 1,5 to 2,0 bar (22 to 29 psi) into the top of the fluid container.
I tried another method which worked very good. Connecting a Mityvac vacuum-pump to the bleeder valve on the locking solenoid, the vacuum immediately made the fluid to enter/prime the system. When the system was primed the flushing/bleeding procedure was no trouble at all to perform.
Åke
I tried another method which worked very good. Connecting a Mityvac vacuum-pump to the bleeder valve on the locking solenoid, the vacuum immediately made the fluid to enter/prime the system. When the system was primed the flushing/bleeding procedure was no trouble at all to perform.
Åke
