Alan

No it doesn't - the fact that the switch lights work in activated position mean the grounds are fine - don't waste your time there.

The problem is in the variable lighting supply to the switches - which is common to all except the light switch (this is an ignition non-variable supply). Variable liughting in the console works correctly I assume (cigar lighter/clock/HVAC)

Alan

Alan

Yes read the post I already linked you to... It would have been helpful to know the pod had been (actually was) out...

Please do tell all thats relevant...

Do the console light really work? - why did you remove the rheostat - did it burn out... is the fuse upgraded for that circuit....?

What do the conections look like where you added the Rheosat jumper (2 wires on one side and one on the other), are there any apparet modifications?

Alan

PS - and guys if you'd like to help - but really don't know and are just postulating a possibility... you might want to position it that way...
...Lots of time & money can be wasted chasing phantom issues...

dfrhodes

Alan - yes, i agree with you that grounds are probably not the issue here after knowing further information. When he mentioned the rear wiper switch affecting lighting, it wasn't clear to me if the switch was position was affecting other switch lighting and my bias was with S4 where the wiper switch is not in the pod. After his post, I changed that position in my followup.

either way, i am postulating possible solutions as you are. hopefully i am not trouncing on sacred ground.

thanks

jwillman

Thanks for the input. Sorry for any confusion. Relevance is often an issue having the knowledge to tie activities togather. I have touched allot of the electrics. Would make a long post.

I pulled the lighting rheostat because it was broken and wanted max lighting. I added a 1 inch spaded connector between the two connectors that use to attach to the rheostat. I have two black wires on one connector and two BL/BK wires on the other side. This matches my wiring diagram for the 79. See below.

I still have the same/ standard fuses per the wiring diagram. Should I upgrade because i deleted the rheostat?

Last time I looked at the center console lighting it was illuminated.

I also reviewed the owner’s manual but I am not sure it is detailed enough to rely on for troubleshooting. It states that the fog light and defog switches illuminate when depressed / engaged. Nothing is said about illumination for the trip reset of rear wiper. Should they illuminate at any time? They have bulbs.

I will re-check all lighting tonight and get a comprehensive update on what is on when.

jwillman

Update,

HVAC, clock, Hazard, and ash tray all illuminate when ignition is on. Only pod switch that illuminates with ignition on is the light switch. With lights on, either parking or headlights, there is no back lighting on any of the switches except the light switch.
fog light, defog/defrost, rear wiper or odo reset switches. When the fog lights and defog are turned on the switches illuminate. Rear wiper never illuminates. Odo reset light intermittently illuminates while being depressed but does not stay on.

Again I am not sure what is normal. Thanks for the help.

vze2jshn

Last year on my '78 OB I replaced gauge lights and switch lights with LEDS whereupon I discovered all the switches illuminate BRIGHTLY with the light switch either on parking lights or headlights ( light switch is always illuminated when ignition switch is on). I also discovered that two of the switches are different colors other than white. Previous to the LEDS I would experience your situation and have come to the conclusion that the old bulbs may have been just too dim. Hope this helps.

vze2jshn

For my '78 Ob I purchased LEDS from superbrightleds.com Tel # 314 972 6200.. They offer a dizzying array of LEDS. I bought (6) WLEDx5: 5LED Wide Angle Wedge Base Bulb-WLED-NW5: Natural White for pod gauge lights- $3.94 each, and (6) 74-x: Wedge Base LED bulb-74-W: Cool White for the light switches,etc. surrounding the pod -$1.19 each. Bought (6) of each so I would have a few more than needed in case of some being faulty or my ham fistedness destroying one or two. The light switch and other pod switch bulbs are a little too long so you'll have to carefully file the bottoms down a bit and they will fit and work. Great results-gauges are finally bright enough to read and the pod switches, I discovered, are all a different color and look great without being garish.
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Alan

They are actually supposed to be pretty dim, your bright LED's are an anomaly due to the way LED's work vs bulbs. However its also likely the bulbs have become even dimmer over time - so fresh bulbs may help - for LEDs you proibably need a series resistor to approximate the correct brighness. The activated state is supposed to be a lot brighter on these.

Alan

Alan

No No No - never do that !! The rheostat on full is the same as the jumper... Under no circumstances ever upgrade any fuses - bad idea.

I ask only because sometimes folks (PO's esp) who have issues seem to upgrade fuses (doh!) - that can then cause other failures (like wires rather than fuses burning out) and changing circuit bahaviour forever...

Alan

Alan

How is fuse 4 - check that?

Alan

jwillman

My bulbs burn bright when illuminated except for the light switch which burns dim. I have swapped the bulb with another andit burns bright in another socket.

Thanks for the clarification - would not have put a bigger fuse in unless there had been a spec change.

I checked the fuse and it is the correct size and fairly new. As I have operating lights seems that validates power flow thru that fuse. Is there something else I should be looking for?

vze2jshn

Checked my '78 US: A. Ignition key on without engine running: illuminated headlight switch, clock, hvac head,radio and warning panel above radio but not other pod switches. If I turn the rear defog/defrost switch on it illuminates.

B. With ignition key on or off but light switch turned to parking or headlights all pod switches illuminate plus clock and cigarette lighter.

jwillman

Okay, Thanks for the verification.

So sounds loike I should have what I will call backlighting on all switches with lights turned on (parking or headlights on).

Any ideas on why I don't have back lighting but do have lights for fog and read defrost when they are turned on?

Wiring diagram only shows one supply for lights. What provides backlight and then full light when energized?

vze2jshn

I had problems/questions similar to yours until I went to LEDS which were bright enough to let me see that everything was working/illuminating. I think the problem is the OEM filament bulbs old or new.

jwillman

My problem is not complaints about brightness but no illumination at all unless the switches are turned on. Not sure LED will solve that.