Oil Pan leak
#1
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Thread Starter
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With parts in hand, I am about to install my S4 single clutch into my 80. As I was taking everything apart, I noticed droplets of oil around the 10mm nuts on the oil pan. Inside the bell housing after removing the flywheel the interior walls are knee deep in grease. My first thought was that the rear seal was shot so I replaced it.
Now upon reading Bill Ball's post about oil pan gaskets, I think that this is the
culprit. I tightened all the oil pan nuts, and it appears that replacing the oil pan gasket is a major effort. Can this be done without major surgery?
Now upon reading Bill Ball's post about oil pan gaskets, I think that this is the
culprit. I tightened all the oil pan nuts, and it appears that replacing the oil pan gasket is a major effort. Can this be done without major surgery?
#2
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Permatex makes a spray sealant that works great. Used it on a Porsche 924, motorcycle, etc..
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...eak_Repair.htm
On my '79 928 (approx. 250K miles as the odometer does not work) it never needed it, just the proper oil leakage to keep the under carriage protected from rust. Never had the oil pan or valve covers off AFAIK and will go to the crusher that way.
What, may I ask, is the reason for using a single disk rather than the double disk clutch??
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...eak_Repair.htm
On my '79 928 (approx. 250K miles as the odometer does not work) it never needed it, just the proper oil leakage to keep the under carriage protected from rust. Never had the oil pan or valve covers off AFAIK and will go to the crusher that way.
What, may I ask, is the reason for using a single disk rather than the double disk clutch??
#3
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Thanks,
Good tip
The reason for the single disk, the PO had it converted. I was stunned when I got everything apart. Not really worth the expense of converting back to a double disk.
Van
Good tip
The reason for the single disk, the PO had it converted. I was stunned when I got everything apart. Not really worth the expense of converting back to a double disk.
Van
#4
Nordschleife Master
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No.
You have to either pull the engine or drop the lower cross member. The latter is generally easier. Good time for engine mounts.
I'd snug them down and keep going. A 10mm ratcheting wrench is key for this operation. Wait until it's a part of a good set of needed repairs. You car isn't going to be hurt by topping up the oil occasionally.
You have to either pull the engine or drop the lower cross member. The latter is generally easier. Good time for engine mounts.
I'd snug them down and keep going. A 10mm ratcheting wrench is key for this operation. Wait until it's a part of a good set of needed repairs. You car isn't going to be hurt by topping up the oil occasionally.
#5
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The key word here is "snug". If you over-tighten the oil pan nuts, you will damage the gasket and increase leakage. One or two fingers on a short wrench is sufficient...
#6
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If you have nuts on the oil pan then someone changed it previous......there should be bolts holding the oil pan in place, 30 of them.....they do loosen to the point where some go missing.
If you do replace the gasket use the silicone version with stud/nut kit......you'll never go back.
If you do replace the gasket use the silicone version with stud/nut kit......you'll never go back.