Carl Fausett

Just found: the 3-wire MALE connector we have been looking for to fix the knock sensor, kick down sensor or crank reference sensor on your 928/944/951!

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...ector_male.php

We also have the female side in stock if you need that.

vze2jshn

Any chance the same source might have replacement boots for spark box ?

Carl Fausett

Your signature suggests you are talking about the transisterized ignition unuit for the 1978, right?

No, I wont have a boot for that (and if I did how would you get it on the cable?).

What you can do:

if the old boot is gone: Make a sleeve out of masking tape or similar that covers the end of the connector where it plugs into the box. Then inject black silicone RTV sealant into the sleeve. Let it cure, then remove the masking tape sleeve.

If the old boot is cracked, but still there: use the boot as the sleeve and inject it with black silincoe RTV directly.

In both cases: dry the connector with a hair drier first to remove all the moisture before sealing it up.

Rob Edwards

If a knock sensor's plug is that bad, the business end is probably toast too, and $30 for a replacement plug for $60 knock sensor is a bit of a tough sell IMO. OTOH, isn't the Hall sensor (now well north of $200) also a 3-pin male plug? Is there something special about the wiring or shielding that would preclude re-plugging an old Hall sensor? I have 2 or 3 with dead plugs but I can't imagine that the sensor part 'wears out', being non-contact, no moving parts, etc...

vze2jshn

Yes, I am referring to the transistorized ign control unit. My boot is cracked so I guess I should disconnect the connector and fill the interior sides of the boot with silicone rtv and let it cure---correct?
I thought I could disconnect the wires in the block connector, slip a new boot over the wires and re-insert wires in the connector if a boot was available. Thanks for the suggestions.

danglerb

I think Hall sensors actually do wear out, replacing one right now in my Mustang distributor (where its little wheel spins instead of on the crank).

Alan

The actual hall sensor part has no moving parts, a sensor assembly might - But I'd assume thats a vehicle specific config part.

As long as the body & attachment is good - should still be functional with connector repair

Alan

Alan

What does the boot in question look like? - Picture?

There are sources for such things - is this a Bosch connector?

Alan

vze2jshn

I don't have a picture. It covers the wires and connecter that go into the Bosch transistorized Ignition control unit. Any potential Bosch sources would be greatly appreciated.

jon928se

If you use silicon RTV make sure that you use a Neutral Cure version. Do not use the Acetoxy cure - smells of vinegar while curing (The most common type)

The acetic acid (vinegar) will remain on the inside of the silicon and corrode the wires.

Dave928S

What Jon said ...
To help when looking for neutral cure, you'll find neutral cure silicones are commonly used for roofing and plumbing on metal products ... and acetic cure are used a lot for glazing and sealing tiles.

vze2jshn

Jon and Dave, Thanks for the info on acetic vs neutral cure Silicon RTY.

Carl Fausett

+1 Jon and Dave Excellent point about the non-corrosive vs acetic cure silicone. Thanks for sharing.

danglerb

From Wikipedia, sounds like it would apply to most automotive use.

Sometimes the sensor may become burnt or worn out. The most likely causes of crankshaft position sensor failure are exposure to extreme heat when you have a gasket or crank problem, corruption from oil or other engine fluids that leaked onto the sensor, or wear over a long period of time.