Just found: 3-wire MALE connector repair kit
#1
Developer
Thread Starter
Just found: 3-wire MALE connector repair kit
Just found: the 3-wire MALE connector we have been looking for to fix the knock sensor, kick down sensor or crank reference sensor on your 928/944/951!
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...ector_male.php
We also have the female side in stock if you need that.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...ector_male.php
We also have the female side in stock if you need that.
#3
Developer
Thread Starter
Your signature suggests you are talking about the transisterized ignition unuit for the 1978, right?
No, I wont have a boot for that (and if I did how would you get it on the cable?).
What you can do:
if the old boot is gone: Make a sleeve out of masking tape or similar that covers the end of the connector where it plugs into the box. Then inject black silicone RTV sealant into the sleeve. Let it cure, then remove the masking tape sleeve.
If the old boot is cracked, but still there: use the boot as the sleeve and inject it with black silincoe RTV directly.
In both cases: dry the connector with a hair drier first to remove all the moisture before sealing it up.
No, I wont have a boot for that (and if I did how would you get it on the cable?).
What you can do:
if the old boot is gone: Make a sleeve out of masking tape or similar that covers the end of the connector where it plugs into the box. Then inject black silicone RTV sealant into the sleeve. Let it cure, then remove the masking tape sleeve.
If the old boot is cracked, but still there: use the boot as the sleeve and inject it with black silincoe RTV directly.
In both cases: dry the connector with a hair drier first to remove all the moisture before sealing it up.
#4
Archive Gatekeeper
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If a knock sensor's plug is that bad, the business end is probably toast too, and $30 for a replacement plug for $60 knock sensor is a bit of a tough sell IMO. OTOH, isn't the Hall sensor (now well north of $200) also a 3-pin male plug? Is there something special about the wiring or shielding that would preclude re-plugging an old Hall sensor? I have 2 or 3 with dead plugs but I can't imagine that the sensor part 'wears out', being non-contact, no moving parts, etc...
#5
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Your signature suggests you are talking about the transisterized ignition unuit for the 1978, right?
No, I wont have a boot for that (and if I did how would you get it on the cable?).
What you can do:
if the old boot is gone: Make a sleeve out of masking tape or similar that covers the end of the connector where it plugs into the box. Then inject black silicone RTV sealant into the sleeve. Let it cure, then remove the masking tape sleeve.
If the old boot is cracked, but still there: use the boot as the sleeve and inject it with black silincoe RTV directly.
In both cases: dry the connector with a hair drier first to remove all the moisture before sealing it up.
No, I wont have a boot for that (and if I did how would you get it on the cable?).
What you can do:
if the old boot is gone: Make a sleeve out of masking tape or similar that covers the end of the connector where it plugs into the box. Then inject black silicone RTV sealant into the sleeve. Let it cure, then remove the masking tape sleeve.
If the old boot is cracked, but still there: use the boot as the sleeve and inject it with black silincoe RTV directly.
In both cases: dry the connector with a hair drier first to remove all the moisture before sealing it up.
I thought I could disconnect the wires in the block connector, slip a new boot over the wires and re-insert wires in the connector if a boot was available. Thanks for the suggestions.
#7
Electron Wrangler
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The actual hall sensor part has no moving parts, a sensor assembly might - But I'd assume thats a vehicle specific config part.
As long as the body & attachment is good - should still be functional with connector repair
Alan
As long as the body & attachment is good - should still be functional with connector repair
Alan
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#8
Electron Wrangler
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#10
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Yes, I am referring to the transistorized ign control unit. My boot is cracked so I guess I should disconnect the connector and fill the interior sides of the boot with silicone rtv and let it cure---correct?
I thought I could disconnect the wires in the block connector, slip a new boot over the wires and re-insert wires in the connector if a boot was available. Thanks for the suggestions.
I thought I could disconnect the wires in the block connector, slip a new boot over the wires and re-insert wires in the connector if a boot was available. Thanks for the suggestions.
The acetic acid (vinegar) will remain on the inside of the silicon and corrode the wires.
#11
Rennlist Member
To help when looking for neutral cure, you'll find neutral cure silicones are commonly used for roofing and plumbing on metal products ... and acetic cure are used a lot for glazing and sealing tiles.
#14
Nordschleife Master
Sometimes the sensor may become burnt or worn out. The most likely causes of crankshaft position sensor failure are exposure to extreme heat when you have a gasket or crank problem, corruption from oil or other engine fluids that leaked onto the sensor, or wear over a long period of time.