Well this year I'm doing some intensive(intensive to me) maintenance on my GT. Starting with replaceing a slippy clutch and top end refresh.I guess that I should the torque tube aswell. I am going to do the timing belt and water pump(last done @169k, and Ive got 220k) while in there.

Going to try to have it all done by June so I can get to SITM and the Alcoa drive. I got my rooms booked, but I won't rush the job.

 

I would do the timing belt before you touch the intake, since you will have to drain the coolant. Coolant has to be drained before you start undoing the intake bolts...

 

If you do the valve cover gaskets, take pictures of your cams.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

 

No hijack intended.

I plan to do TB and ITR soon on my 86.5 and will start a thread when the time comes.

I’m just curious about that comment. Why do TB before touching intake?


And by the way, good luck with your project Steve. You can do it!

 

I said that because by doing the timing belt coolant will have to be drained due to the water pump coming off, when you do an intake refresh on the S4+ cars, coolant needs to be drained before you touch the intake, coolant needs to be drained before you touch the intake, coolant needs to be drained before you touch the intake.

If the system has coolant in it and you unbolt the intake, coolant will drain into #4 and #8 cylinder, then when you finish the work and try to start the car, engine hydro locks (fluid is incompressible) and breaks the #4 or #8 cylinder, then you have to buy a new block!

I don't know if the pre S4 cars would have the same problem.

 

Good luck with the maintenance work Steve. Let me know if you need a hand.

 

I think what Ali means is that you need to drain the block and rad if you are removing the water bridge in your intake R/R.
If you are not, then you can do it after if you want.
That's what I did.

Edit: Oups! Didn't know that. I guess I was lucky!!!

 

OK. Thanks.

Steve, drain the coolant BEFORE touching the intake. Don't want bent rods, broken pistons or cracked cylinder walls!

 

Yes, some get lucky some don't. There are two coolant ports on the back, one is used for the heater and the other is blocked off with a plate. These holes are right next to intake port #4 and #8.
You have to take the air box brackets off to undo the last nuts for the intake on the back. In order to take the brackets off you have to undo the bolts related to those two coolant ports, once undone coolant starts coming out, due to elevation. If you happen to pull and jerk the intake around at the same time, the coolant will drain into #4 and #8. And the rest I just explained above.

 

Now I understand.
Thanks Ali.

 

Steve, you don't need to touch the TT to change the clutch. If it's not making any noise, leave it alone.

 

cool. Learning stuff every day. now I just need some nicer weather to get started. Oh, I shoulod start getting a shopping list together too.

 

Hey Steve, have you started work on this stuff yet? How's it going?

 

just ordered the parts. they should be shipped on the 11th, maybe in hand by next week. just starting to get the particulars together on wher I will fixing it. just doing the clutch stuff first....

 

Still looking to trade?