Alternator Replacement Instructions for '88 928S4
02-10-2012, 02:15 AM
#17
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
To make hand-cleaning easier at the end, use some cream waterless-style hand cleaner as a pre-job lotion. Something like GOOP hand cleaner works well for this.
Fitting the alternator around the existing console brackets seems to be one of the bigger chellenges to getting the new alternaor to fit up easily the first time. To make this as easy as possible, put the big bolt into the new alternator as it sits on the floor pre-install. Screw the bolt in until the head is about a quarter inch shy of contacting the front ear. Then gently tap on the bolt head until it's against the front ear. This moves the rear rear threaded boss back and gives you a little more room to get the alternator up into place. When you fit that bolt back in with the alternator up against the boss in the alternator/PS pump console, tightening it will draw that rear threaded boss towards the front again, and pinched the boss between the alternator ears.
Replacing mine with new, I found that I needed to move the longer original through-bolts (screws) from the old alternator to the new one. The 'new' bolts didn't pass through far enough to install the shroud with those 4 nuts.
With the car jacked up. you'll need something to set the alternators on while you pull the cooling shroud and cabling off, and re-installing it.. A 5-gal bucket upside down makes a handy support for that so you don't stretch any wires. Don't let the alternator hang from the wiring.
Fitting the alternator around the existing console brackets seems to be one of the bigger chellenges to getting the new alternaor to fit up easily the first time. To make this as easy as possible, put the big bolt into the new alternator as it sits on the floor pre-install. Screw the bolt in until the head is about a quarter inch shy of contacting the front ear. Then gently tap on the bolt head until it's against the front ear. This moves the rear rear threaded boss back and gives you a little more room to get the alternator up into place. When you fit that bolt back in with the alternator up against the boss in the alternator/PS pump console, tightening it will draw that rear threaded boss towards the front again, and pinched the boss between the alternator ears.
Replacing mine with new, I found that I needed to move the longer original through-bolts (screws) from the old alternator to the new one. The 'new' bolts didn't pass through far enough to install the shroud with those 4 nuts.
With the car jacked up. you'll need something to set the alternators on while you pull the cooling shroud and cabling off, and re-installing it.. A 5-gal bucket upside down makes a handy support for that so you don't stretch any wires. Don't let the alternator hang from the wiring.
02-10-2012, 10:15 AM
#18
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
On tensioning the belt Rob's notes for deflection are right on - AND this is very tight.
For ref see how tight the belt is is before you remove it (assuming it was working OK before a recent failure) - you need the new belt at least that tight - it must be much tighter than most would naturally assume it needs to be...
Alan
For ref see how tight the belt is is before you remove it (assuming it was working OK before a recent failure) - you need the new belt at least that tight - it must be much tighter than most would naturally assume it needs to be...
Alan
02-10-2012, 02:25 PM
#21
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On tensioning the belt Rob's notes for deflection are right on - AND this is very tight.
For ref see how tight the belt is is before you remove it (assuming it was working OK before a recent failure) - you need the new belt at least that tight - it must be much tighter than most would naturally assume it needs to be...
Alan
For ref see how tight the belt is is before you remove it (assuming it was working OK before a recent failure) - you need the new belt at least that tight - it must be much tighter than most would naturally assume it needs to be...
Alan
Laurie
02-10-2012, 02:27 PM
#22
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To make hand-cleaning easier at the end, use some cream waterless-style hand cleaner as a pre-job lotion. Something like GOOP hand cleaner works well for this.
Fitting the alternator around the existing console brackets seems to be one of the bigger chellenges to getting the new alternaor to fit up easily the first time. To make this as easy as possible, put the big bolt into the new alternator as it sits on the floor pre-install. Screw the bolt in until the head is about a quarter inch shy of contacting the front ear. Then gently tap on the bolt head until it's against the front ear. This moves the rear rear threaded boss back and gives you a little more room to get the alternator up into place. When you fit that bolt back in with the alternator up against the boss in the alternator/PS pump console, tightening it will draw that rear threaded boss towards the front again, and pinched the boss between the alternator ears.
Replacing mine with new, I found that I needed to move the longer original through-bolts (screws) from the old alternator to the new one. The 'new' bolts didn't pass through far enough to install the shroud with those 4 nuts.
With the car jacked up. you'll need something to set the alternators on while you pull the cooling shroud and cabling off, and re-installing it.. A 5-gal bucket upside down makes a handy support for that so you don't stretch any wires. Don't let the alternator hang from the wiring.
Fitting the alternator around the existing console brackets seems to be one of the bigger chellenges to getting the new alternaor to fit up easily the first time. To make this as easy as possible, put the big bolt into the new alternator as it sits on the floor pre-install. Screw the bolt in until the head is about a quarter inch shy of contacting the front ear. Then gently tap on the bolt head until it's against the front ear. This moves the rear rear threaded boss back and gives you a little more room to get the alternator up into place. When you fit that bolt back in with the alternator up against the boss in the alternator/PS pump console, tightening it will draw that rear threaded boss towards the front again, and pinched the boss between the alternator ears.
Replacing mine with new, I found that I needed to move the longer original through-bolts (screws) from the old alternator to the new one. The 'new' bolts didn't pass through far enough to install the shroud with those 4 nuts.
With the car jacked up. you'll need something to set the alternators on while you pull the cooling shroud and cabling off, and re-installing it.. A 5-gal bucket upside down makes a handy support for that so you don't stretch any wires. Don't let the alternator hang from the wiring.
Laurie
02-10-2012, 02:35 PM
#23
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Boxes of 100 rubber gloves are roughly the same cost as 50 doses of hand cleaner, and a lot quicker, not sure why all the hand wringing about hand washing. Just get some disposable gloves, why expose your skin to all of the mess and (albeit very low risk, IMO) toxins/solvents/etc. ?
One of the pics I posted is from the GT when it was new-to-me. It was gross, underneath. The alternator will likely have been bathing in ATF from the power steering reservoir, it'll be a dirty, messy job. 15 minutes with a can of brake cleaner and a roll of paper towel in a well ventilated area (I keep a cheap box fan nearby when cleaning) will go a long way to make this job much less unpleasant than it would otherwise be.
One of the pics I posted is from the GT when it was new-to-me. It was gross, underneath. The alternator will likely have been bathing in ATF from the power steering reservoir, it'll be a dirty, messy job. 15 minutes with a can of brake cleaner and a roll of paper towel in a well ventilated area (I keep a cheap box fan nearby when cleaning) will go a long way to make this job much less unpleasant than it would otherwise be.
02-10-2012, 02:42 PM
#24
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Boxes of 100 rubber gloves are roughly the same cost as 50 doses of hand cleaner, and a lot quicker, not sure why all the hand wringing about hand washing. Just get some disposable gloves, why expose your skin to all of the mess and (albeit very low risk, IMO) toxins/solvents/etc. ?
One of the pics I posted is from the GT when it was new-to-me. It was gross, underneath. The alternator will likely have been bathing in ATF from the power steering reservoir, it'll be a dirty, messy job. 15 minutes with a can of brake cleaner and a roll of paper towel in a well ventilated area (I keep a cheap box fan nearby when cleaning) will go a long way to make this job much less unpleasant than it would otherwise be.
One of the pics I posted is from the GT when it was new-to-me. It was gross, underneath. The alternator will likely have been bathing in ATF from the power steering reservoir, it'll be a dirty, messy job. 15 minutes with a can of brake cleaner and a roll of paper towel in a well ventilated area (I keep a cheap box fan nearby when cleaning) will go a long way to make this job much less unpleasant than it would otherwise be.
Laurie
02-10-2012, 11:46 PM
#26
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
EDIT: Duh, I forgot about Dwayne's outstanding TB writeup. Oh well, here's a Cliff's notes version with some additional pictures and notes..
...
5. Loosen the big M10 x 130 'through' bolt that mounts the top of the alternator- the alt should pivot back and forth now on its mount. This bolt will have to come all the way out in order to drop the alternator, you will want to figure out some way to move the lower radiator hose out of its way. I think I used a 6" extension bar to push it forwards and out of the way.
...
Done:
...
5. Loosen the big M10 x 130 'through' bolt that mounts the top of the alternator- the alt should pivot back and forth now on its mount. This bolt will have to come all the way out in order to drop the alternator, you will want to figure out some way to move the lower radiator hose out of its way. I think I used a 6" extension bar to push it forwards and out of the way.
...
Done:
Any suggestions? I'm hoping I can bribe someone in the area with pizza, beer, wine that might perhaps have an hour or so to help me get it finished. I have a call into my brother-in-law. He's not mechanical but he's strong.
The car was every bit as greasy underneath as I anticipated. I'll have to look into a good cleaning once she's up and running.
Right now, I've called it for the night and I'm going to enjoy one very large rum and coke. Perhaps if I sleep on it, some magical wisdom or strength will arrive tomorrow.
The instructions have been awesome. Once I got under the car, everything made sense. Thanks again for the help.
Laurie
02-11-2012, 01:24 AM
#27
Three Wheelin'
Laurie - Did you remove the fan shroud? With some careful wriggling, it'll come out if you loosen the power steering fluid reservoir. That might give you the extra room.
02-11-2012, 02:21 PM
#28
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you.
02-11-2012, 03:49 PM
#29
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Here's the fan shroud. Held at the top of the radiator by 2 10mm hex screws, then it lifts straight up about an inch before the round 'shroud' part of the shroud starts hitting things like the upper radiator hose, the oil cooler hoses on the driver's side, etc.
Remember there may be a ziptie holding it to the lower radiator hose on the driver's side, you'll need to cut that first:
Raising it up an inch or two may be enough to be able to move the alternator bolt forwards, between the blades of the driver's side fan. Or you may have to lift it out higher. Make sure you support it so it doesn't slip back and crush/pinch fingers.
When replacing the shroud, make sure you get the three tabs across the bottom back in the slots in the rear of the radiator frame. You want the shroud flat on the back of the radiator, to maximize airflow thru it (that, plus the shroud won't fit correctly over the tabs on the top of the radiator...)
Remember there may be a ziptie holding it to the lower radiator hose on the driver's side, you'll need to cut that first:
Raising it up an inch or two may be enough to be able to move the alternator bolt forwards, between the blades of the driver's side fan. Or you may have to lift it out higher. Make sure you support it so it doesn't slip back and crush/pinch fingers.
When replacing the shroud, make sure you get the three tabs across the bottom back in the slots in the rear of the radiator frame. You want the shroud flat on the back of the radiator, to maximize airflow thru it (that, plus the shroud won't fit correctly over the tabs on the top of the radiator...)
02-11-2012, 03:57 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
I just did this job the other night. I did remove the top radiator hose and loosened the fan schroud(top 2 bolts) I then was able to remove the upper long bolt(Alternator) and at the same time I was holding the schroud up out of the bottom tabs to make room. Putting the long bolt back in can be the hardest part. I found a shorter bolt to use as a alignment bolt before attempting to thread in the longer one.
Thomas
Thomas