nc_growler

Working on my TT rebuild and getting ready to drop the clutch pack out.

I'm trying to release the clamp at the front of the TT right before the coupler guide to the intermediate shaft in my GT...

I just had a cheater pipe on my 3/8" drive ratchet with a 8mm allen socket and nearly broke a sweat trying to undo this bolt.

I was not expecting that. WSM says that this bolt should be torqued only at 42 ft/lbs?

This isn't one of those reverse thread bolts or something? Just don't want to strip it by accident...

NoVector

I wonder if it has red locktight on it. Not uncommon; I have it on mine. Have you tried a torch? Red locktight is good to 500 degrees. / Bruce

nc_growler

Pretty sure whatever is on there is what the factory put on it. Was that common?

Not sure I want to take a torch to that area... That sleeve under the clamp... Is it going to tolerate that kind of heat?

jcorenman

Standard thread, hi-grade 10mm bolt. It gets torqued to 59 ft-lb (according to my tech-spec book), and it is a bear to loosen. I use a 1/2" drive allen-bit and a breaker bar, I don't think it can be done with a 3/8 ratchet without breaking something.

Also try some Kroil (or other penetrating oil) on the threads from the backside, and maybe a few taps with a hammer to wake it up.

Good luck!

Jim

jeff spahn

+1 on hammer

nc_growler

Thanks guys... Going out with there tomorrow night with a renewed sense of purpose and direction...

Jim - went back to the WSM and see that I was wrong. It says 58 ft/lbs for the 12.9 material bolt?

Picking up a set of 1/2 drive Allen sockets and will have hammer in hand to "waken the dead"... :-)

NoVector

Oh, okay--the red must be the original paint marks. Try a bigger driver. Good luck!

aaddpp

One of the most awkward and stuck fasteners I found on my car. I think I used a 1/2" breaker bar and sprayed the bolt down with a combination of PB Blaster and the equivalent from Sea Foam - the combination seems to work. When the bolt gave I was sure it either the hex head stripping, or the bolt breaking, thankfully it was neither. I made sure to get a replacement from Roger, and toss the old one. I think I recall it being above metric grade 8.8, maybe 10.9 or 12.9, but can't recall exactly. I've also been told to treat the short central shaft like a first-born as its NLA.

Dave928S

Replace both front bolts and WYAIT replace the rear one too (they can stretch). On a manual the rear ones tend to come loose and the front ones are still torqued up.

When you remove the rear bolt check that the groove in the shaft is still central to the bolt hole, as the shaft tends to migrate forwards. If it is forward a little pry it back before fitting and torquing the new bolt at the rear, then fit and torque the front bolts.

Edit: Making sure the rear bolt is in the correct position and correctly torqued, and that the shaft in the correct position, is vital to ensure you don't risk consequent damage/breakage of your gearbox input shaft, and/or damage to the drive shaft splines.

nc_growler

Dave - Thank you for the additional comments regarding cautions that should be applied and the WYAIT work.

I'm trying hard not to become overly paranoid during this job...

nc_growler

Spent Monday searching for a 1/2"x8mm allen socket. No joy!

So on Tuesday evening, I put a 1/2x3/8 adapter on my breaker bar with a 3/8x8mm allen socket.

Gave the coupler clamp bolt a sharp rap with a hammer, applied some breaker bar force and viola, off it came! Guess all that sweating before loosened it up?

Being that I have the long coupler, I popped the front TT inspection hole and broke that coupler bolt lose as well. Quickly moved to the rear of the TT and verified I could loosen that bolt as well.

Everything looks great so far.

About to start a new thread on removing the single disc clutch.

Dave928S

Good work

When you get the rear bolt out have a close look at the threads and the shank for damage, which would be a telltale of the shaft sliding forward a little. If the rear bolt was tight, and the bolt then unscrews easily without a mark on the shank or threads, then that would be a good sign that the shaft probably hasn't moved forward. How difficult was it to loosen them all, bearing in mind the spec torque?

nc_growler

Dave,

Steady even pressure on the breaker bar broke them loose. They felt tight. Definitely not loose by any stretch of the imagination.

I ordered replacements for all three bolts before starting the job. :-)

nc_growler

Update... Left the clutch in the car, used Stanley Rotator Ratchet and GearWrench Roto-Ratchet in combination with a smaller (shorter) 1/4 GearWrench ratchet and a 17mm standard GearWrench, we were able to remove the top two TT bolts and pull the TT by sliding the transmission back about 1 inch after loosening the mounts on the cross member.

Here's the diagnosis confirmed... I believe the front bearing is supposed to be about 12 inches from the front of the TT?

Guess that explains the bad vibe at high RPM?!

dprantl

Yup, that is exactly how mine was.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft