Tommyd928

Hi everybody, first time posting...

I first registered to this forum when I purchased a 1983 928 S about a year and a half ago. the interior is trashed - usual leather shrinking and messing everything up - but the mechanicals and bodywork are good.

The only major mechanical issue was that the clutch wasn't working when I got the car so I figured I'd start there. I couldn't find a way to change the clutch master cylinder in the work shop manual or on the forum, other then having the engine out. I wasn't going to pull the engine out so I did something I believe no one has tried before... I took the spot welds off the sheet metal plate that holds the cylinder from inside the the pedal area then maintained the proper hardline position on the replacement MC, pulled the hose reservoir hose up with some twine , fed the whole assembly back through the hole I had made and re-welded the sheet metal back to the pedal area. It worked out fine!

So over the past few months on and off, looking for free time, I've also changed the clutch pressure plate, discs , throwout bearing, and slave cylinder...and after bleeding endless times and cutting down the rod on of piston on the MC the clutch wouldn't work! All of the above, by the way, I learned how to do on this forum. Then I read on and found out - you have to adjust the H spacers for the intermediate plate!

Learned how to do that too...couldn't wipe the grin when the gears finally went in. However, I still have trouble shifting. Could it be that I need more space between the intermediate plate? I didn't actuate the throwout bearing lever while moving the H spacers, is that necessary? I just moved the spacers with the flat screwdriver and got about a 1mm of distance.

Aside from the gears still grinding, the other problem I have is that I run out of space when I try to put in first gear - the shift lever hits the left side of the linkage box and I can barely pull back to engage first. Is there any adjustment on the linkage where I can create more space before the lever hits the metal area of the linkage box?

I can't find enough words to thank those who's threads have helped me so far and appreciate any further enlightenment

Tom Diaz

WallyP

You can adjust the position of the shift lever by loosening the rear shift rod coupler and adjusting the shift rod in/out until you get the lever centered.

Is the plastic cup still in the upper end of the clutch arm (under the air cleaner)?

Bleeding the clutch can be difficult. Jay Kempf's method of pulling the clutch piston and cup out of the bore just enough to let air escape from the top edge is the last resort.

A few folks have reported success by hooking a tight-fitting tube from the bleed screw on the right front brake caliper to the bleed screw on the clutch slave, then pumping fluid from the brake system thru the clutch back into the reservoir - hopefully carrying the air with it.

Tommyd928

I imagen that moving the rear shifter coupling will center the shift lever enough to give it enough movement. The only thing is i guess i ll have to get under the car and figure it out...used to 911 s and 356 s where there's a cover on the tunnel from inside.

I'll check the plastic cup tommorrow...is it possible that it doesn't use one? I honestly don't remember seeing one when I installed the clutch assembly.


Thanks for your advise,
Tom

Tommyd928

As far as the bleeding goes I think i've tried everything suggested. Hooked an oiler to the bleeder slave screw and it worked somewhat but was getting air I think from screw, so I put some teflon on it and the oiler itself later started pumping air...made quite a mess.

Ended up buying a Motive Pressure bleeder and saw no more air coming from the bleed screw and pretty much good feel to the pedal (first time ever had a car with hydraulic clutch so wonder what the right feel is). However, something interesting was that the Motive bleeder kept getting bubbles going up from the resevoir end into the hose to the pressurized tank??? Is this nomal?

Lizard928

There is no need to remove the welded plate to the chassis, and by doing so if the realignment is not 100% perfect you will have accelerated wear on the master cylinder piston.

To bleed, use regular method of bleeding, then remove the C clip that holds the piston in and extract most of the way and tilt the bottom down allowing the air to escape.

Adjustment of the H adjusters is critical. If they are too far back or forward it will not disengage.

Make sure that all your shifter bushings are NEW Ball cup, and rear universal!

Tommyd928

I'll check the ball cup tonight. As far as the MC alignment, it won't be a problem I positioned the plate exactly where it came off of. I'll post pictures of the process tonight. I could find no other way to take the MC out without either the engine or brake assembly removed. To me this wasn't a big deal since I do a lot of bodywork restoration and am used to drilling out spot welds.

Lizard do I have to actuate the lever on the clutch to align the H spacers? I didn't do that. I think I need more clearance between them.

Thanks for the input,
Tom

blown 87

My guess is you are right that no one has ever taken the plate out to remove a clutch master cylinder.
They will come out by just unbolting them with out cutting holes in the car or taking the brake booster out.