Ducman82

so I'm using a pan spacer with one silicone gasket and the pan. (use sealant between block and spacer) the studs i have are a little short. anyone know where i can find 50mm long M6 1.0 studs? i remember seeing some one on here that had them with the little allen hole at the end for holding the stud.....

thanks guys.

Speedtoys

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=fb6cps

jpitman2

Some nice parts there, but allen key drive shows no metric sizes? I was planning to make a jig to enable drilling a tie wire hole in the corner of the bolt heads on mine. Or may buy a bunch of new bolts and drill them all and swap in. The book lists 25 bolts with 28mm of thread, and 5 at 25mm. Anybody know if the 28 is a limit - its not a normally available length taht I can find? Most outlets only list 30mm threads.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

Imo000

4 of the pan bolts are slightly shorter than the rest.

Mike Simard

Did you get that pan spacer from me? If so I'll send you the studs.
IIRC it was 5 shorter. I'd been including studs only for the front and 2 lengths of bolts for the rest.
Silicon gasket? Ugh.

Ducman82

I got the kit from Greg. I've decided to just uses the sealant on both sides.

toofast928

For future needs good metric stud supplier-
http://www.drillspot.com/products/99...el_driver_stud

danglerb

$4 each for the studs, why not buy the kit from a 928 vendor?

BTW old thread says 5 are shorter by 3 mm, 4 in the front and one over the starter.

the flyin' scotsman

It is 5 shorter studs............4 where the x member is close to the engine and the 5th at the starter.

Silicone gskt on my car and zero leaks.....2 years and holding.

Ducman82

the ones up front are short. i got the stud kit from Greg. they will work all around with the gasket except under the front. so i might just ditch the gasket, or get 4-6 longer ones or use bolts... i have not decided yet.

jpitman2

Is there any reason tab washers wouldnt do the job with the normal bolts ?
as in those here :-
http://www.impressltd.co.uk/specialist_pressings/
All you would need to know is the width of the face of the pan so you got a washer such that the tab reached over the edge.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

Dave928S

I've used both tab washers and drilled bolt heads with a continuous wire on race cars, and both work well to stop rotation (and both are accepted by CAMS - motor sport sanctioning body in Australia).

Drilled bolt heads are a PITA for multiple bolts, as you really need to drill at a few points so that you have a choice of holes, to pick the one at the right orientation to stop rotation. Drilled heads are good for sump plugs, gearbox plugs and other single bolt applications, and are better where the bolt head is bigger.

Tab plates are more convenient on multi bolt covers, as single tab washers may allow a bit of movement. A good setup is to have a tab plate which picks up pairs of bolts, and if there's an odd one extra or a corner you can fit a triple plate. I'm sure I've seen a post with a pic of double bolt tab plates for sumps sometime on this forum.

Dave928S

I've looked at that list of tab washers, and it seems from the side view they show that they may be the type that have the downward small tab which sits into an indexing hole drilled just out from the bolt hole in the sump. If that's what they are they would work well, but you'd have to drill a blind indexing hole next to every sump bolt hole ... and I think double flat tab plates would be preferable to doing that.

Maybach_Man

The 'Studs' with the allen heads are just long grub screws and are available anywhere for a few pence each

Ducman82

i got some of the longer "set screws" with the allen hole in the top. but i liked the positive seating of the studs wit the non-threded part 10mm up. so i added a little bump with my TIG welder 10mm up on all the studs.. seems to work well.