928 broken timing belt help!
#16
get the car back and relax. You can spend a bit and insulate and heat your garage, then do it yourself. A TB job is a long day for someone who's done it before, a weekend or two for a new guy.
#17
#confirmed as Weekend job if its your first try -(spend time cleaning and don't rush)
I imagine 16V would be a little faster (less tricky to line up)
Porkentensioner makes it very smooth. Rebuilding factory tensioner is not hard, with all the right parts (dont lose nose washer)
Count on doing vacuum and fuel lines while you are at it (WYAAIT)
That WYAAIT list will start to grow if you dont manage it , but since you are already there you may also want to
replace power steering filter/resevoir
replace all drive belts [although the alternator belt is multi ribbed and tough.
thermostat and thermostat seals
front main seal (and if you are bold) oil pump seal
Heater control valve.
list starts to grow and grow but this is what I did -
I imagine 16V would be a little faster (less tricky to line up)
Porkentensioner makes it very smooth. Rebuilding factory tensioner is not hard, with all the right parts (dont lose nose washer)
Count on doing vacuum and fuel lines while you are at it (WYAAIT)
That WYAAIT list will start to grow if you dont manage it , but since you are already there you may also want to
replace power steering filter/resevoir
replace all drive belts [although the alternator belt is multi ribbed and tough.
thermostat and thermostat seals
front main seal (and if you are bold) oil pump seal
Heater control valve.
list starts to grow and grow but this is what I did -
#18
Ever get to Edmonton? I'm changing a TB on My 80 race car today.You could stop by for a look if you were in town. It's not hard read the posts on the procedure.Then follow what you've read. Do you have a heated Garage?
#19
Just reread the thread. Too cold to tackle outside. too bad you're not in Edmonton you could do it in my shop and I could help you. Do you have a truck and a trailer? or even just a truck you can rent a U-haul trailer for cheap. Or wait til spring. $ 4500 is way too much we could throw on a new belt in a day and get the thing running 2- days tops if you drink a lot of beer. I wouldn't worry about changing the water pump until you have a running car.
#20
WHOA there.....just put a belt on it ! Do nothing else. You first need to get it running to see what else does not work. If it should need a clutch and the transmission has buggered up syncronizers you did not buy a car ! If the coolant leak happens to be a head gasket you need to KNOW that the rest of the driveline is O K BEFORE you dig in to fix that. .
Now is not the time to double your investment on a not running, driving "car". If all you do is change the belt it might take 2-3 hours. Just cut off the acessory belts pull the balancer and belt covers and if the water pump turns throw on a belt and get it running. CIS injection which you have can be enough of a challenge all by it's self. You need to make that car runs before you get too much money "invested" and feel like you have to "stay the course" and try to fix it.
Now is not the time to double your investment on a not running, driving "car". If all you do is change the belt it might take 2-3 hours. Just cut off the acessory belts pull the balancer and belt covers and if the water pump turns throw on a belt and get it running. CIS injection which you have can be enough of a challenge all by it's self. You need to make that car runs before you get too much money "invested" and feel like you have to "stay the course" and try to fix it.
#21
This is a prudent line of attack.
WHOA there.....just put a belt on it ! Do nothing else. You first need to get it running to see what else does not work. If it should need a clutch and the transmission has buggered up syncronizers you did not buy a car ! If the coolant leak happens to be a head gasket you need to KNOW that the rest of the driveline is O K BEFORE you dig in to fix that. .
Now is not the time to double your investment on a not running, driving "car". If all you do is change the belt it might take 2-3 hours. Just cut off the acessory belts pull the balancer and belt covers and if the water pump turns throw on a belt and get it running. CIS injection which you have can be enough of a challenge all by it's self. You need to make that car runs before you get too much money "invested" and feel like you have to "stay the course" and try to fix it.
Now is not the time to double your investment on a not running, driving "car". If all you do is change the belt it might take 2-3 hours. Just cut off the acessory belts pull the balancer and belt covers and if the water pump turns throw on a belt and get it running. CIS injection which you have can be enough of a challenge all by it's self. You need to make that car runs before you get too much money "invested" and feel like you have to "stay the course" and try to fix it.
#23
WHOA there.....just put a belt on it ! Do nothing else. You first need to get it running to see what else does not work. If it should need a clutch and the transmission has buggered up syncronizers you did not buy a car ! If the coolant leak happens to be a head gasket you need to KNOW that the rest of the driveline is O K BEFORE you dig in to fix that. .
Personally, I prefer to do the timing belt job right, in the hopes that the coolant is not from a head gasket leak. Then, if it turns out you don't need a head gasket, you don't have to dive back in to replace the water pump et al. If you do, then your only replacing something that you will have to replace eventually anyway. However, if there is a reasonable chance that you will bail on the project, then I agree with just putting on a belt.
#25
Again, different perspective on time and money. If time is free, then I agree with you particularly on an OB.
#26
There is more to the early cars than the timing belt. The $4200 does not guarantee the car will run. If the seller said it needed fuel pumps and the timing belt was spun then it is possible the CIS injection system is clogged up. The later cars with electronic injection are far more tolerant to sitting. The CIS injection system, while much better for performance, it does not like to sit around. The most common failure from sitting is the Warm Up Regulator. If the car has been sitting and since it has probably not been maintained well then it needs a complete fuel service including a new tank screen. There is a good chance that the screen has already fragmented and ruined the existing pump. Unless it is replaced and the tank cleaned the next pump you install will freeze up too. Most everything else can be cleaned.
I know you are excited about getting the car running but it not much of a snow car and the salt on the road will really tear things up quickly. Better approach is to put the car up for the winter and then find a good spot to work on it in the spring. A couple of weeks of evenings when the weather is right will probably get you on the road.
Here is a link to my 78 Project
http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/pr.../78_5speed.htm
Have fun
I know you are excited about getting the car running but it not much of a snow car and the salt on the road will really tear things up quickly. Better approach is to put the car up for the winter and then find a good spot to work on it in the spring. A couple of weeks of evenings when the weather is right will probably get you on the road.
Here is a link to my 78 Project
http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/pr.../78_5speed.htm
Have fun
#27
rennlist rules thanks a lot for the advice. I am in Calgary, Alberta. I was quoted 1500 parts about 3000 labour. I know I could do the belt, I already down loaded the do it yourself manual one of the rennlist member post it's almost 200 pages and every detailed. I don't the space right now and the garage isn't heated -15 right now and going down.
You dont have the garage space and even if you did its unheated and its -20C so its not getting done at home.
You dont know if it runs and it apparently has a broken timing belt. Even with a new timing belt it may not run given many other factors.
Unless you are desperate to get the car running as a daily driver this winter Id suggest that the battery be removed and parked until spring.
I do visit Calgary from time to time and could look at the car but not outside in these temps.
BTW.....$10,000 for a '79 other than prestine condition might be a little optimistic.
#28
to pay $3300.00 for a non-running car is a bit high, but you paid it so you are pretty much committed to get it fixed, first don't rush into getting it done, second read the forum to get an idea what needs to be done on a almost 30 years old car then order parts (to get the car running) from the vendors here - less expensive, once the car runs then you can fix/repair from front to rear, top to bottom - i did mine 2 years ago and i am still doing it - drive while you restore - it's fun! Good luck!
Barry
Barry
#29
update on 928 broken t/b
wow! i'd didn't think i'd get this much help, I didn't know what would happen. The last owner put me on to this site for links to pictures for the fuel pump and tank and looking through the site I signed up. The first thing it said was get the manuals so I did. Anyway the shop is very high end one of the best in the city for ferrari and porsche and such, the mechanic working on my car has 40+ years for porsche and knows the car very well. I went down on Friday and he went over the car with me for over an hour it seem no maintenance was done on the car but the oil was okay 50/50. In a way it was good that the car shut down or he would not have sold it and I would not own it today. So the plan is they ordered a new t/b o,m,e by the way all parts they use is porsche factory no after market parts they showed me their parts room even the fluids are porsche factory no english on the bottle. Put the belt on don't fix anything and see if it runs and go from there. The belt was still in one piece but the ribs tore of about 10 of them. I will give you updates as I get them, THANKS for all the help.