windshield washers modifications
11-18-2011, 12:45 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
windshield washers modifications
Hi Gang,
My 1987 928S4 came with a non-op windshield washers and I finally got it fixed. The pumps were operating but nothing shot out from the nozzles. So I used a guitar wire to clean the nozzles and that did not do the trick.
I then pulled out the large bundle of tubings from the hood. It was a difficult task as there were a lot of hardwares attached. By the time I got everything out, most tubings and connectors were already disconnected. So I did a search on Rennlist and thanks to Tony's website, there is a modified plumbing that Tony illustrated: http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/windshie.htm
I checked and cleaned every single piece of the plumbing. All 4 check valves were useless. The Y connectors are bulky and the nozzles were all clogged.
I tried my best to remove the nozzles but I was not able to despite checking all the related threads. I then use a 22 gauge needle hooked up to a large syringe to irrigate the nozzles from the top of the hood. After a few rinses, the flow of water down the hose fitting became quite good. I then reversed the direction and push water from under the hood to ensure a good stream.
Since all check valves failed and all the Ys were so bulky, I started looking for alternative parts. I figured Honda must make similar stuffs but perhaps might last longer. I then look under my NSX's hood and found that there were also check valves and Ys. The Ys are better designed as they are narrow "y"s just like the small letter.
So I bought 2 "y"s and 2 check valves from Honda. Thanks for Tony's plumbing diagram and Honda's better geometries. The resultant plumbing is very compact and I was able to just slide the plumbing back into the hood tunnel without any fuss. The most agonizing part of the job is to slide the tubings into the nozzle fittings as they point inwards. It took me a long time to put those on. In many instances, I was also trying to remove the nozzle from the hood but was unsuccessful. So if you know how to do it, the entire job would be a piece of cake.
Many thanks to Tony and the community, my windshield washers finally work.
Steve
My 1987 928S4 came with a non-op windshield washers and I finally got it fixed. The pumps were operating but nothing shot out from the nozzles. So I used a guitar wire to clean the nozzles and that did not do the trick.
I then pulled out the large bundle of tubings from the hood. It was a difficult task as there were a lot of hardwares attached. By the time I got everything out, most tubings and connectors were already disconnected. So I did a search on Rennlist and thanks to Tony's website, there is a modified plumbing that Tony illustrated: http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/windshie.htm
I checked and cleaned every single piece of the plumbing. All 4 check valves were useless. The Y connectors are bulky and the nozzles were all clogged.
I tried my best to remove the nozzles but I was not able to despite checking all the related threads. I then use a 22 gauge needle hooked up to a large syringe to irrigate the nozzles from the top of the hood. After a few rinses, the flow of water down the hose fitting became quite good. I then reversed the direction and push water from under the hood to ensure a good stream.
Since all check valves failed and all the Ys were so bulky, I started looking for alternative parts. I figured Honda must make similar stuffs but perhaps might last longer. I then look under my NSX's hood and found that there were also check valves and Ys. The Ys are better designed as they are narrow "y"s just like the small letter.
So I bought 2 "y"s and 2 check valves from Honda. Thanks for Tony's plumbing diagram and Honda's better geometries. The resultant plumbing is very compact and I was able to just slide the plumbing back into the hood tunnel without any fuss. The most agonizing part of the job is to slide the tubings into the nozzle fittings as they point inwards. It took me a long time to put those on. In many instances, I was also trying to remove the nozzle from the hood but was unsuccessful. So if you know how to do it, the entire job would be a piece of cake.
Many thanks to Tony and the community, my windshield washers finally work.
Steve
Last edited by whiteNSXs; 11-18-2011 at 12:13 PM. Reason: spellings
11-18-2011, 09:31 AM
#3
Team Owner
thanks for posting this, I am sure many will find it useful.
11-18-2011, 11:44 AM
#4
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Kinda freaks me out that i did that i think 10 years ago now. Where the he!! does the time go? I really need to work on my page and update some things.
Honda parts! good call!
Ive always want to place a washer jet under my rear lisc plate so it squirts up in an arc far enough to tag any one riding my *** in traffic.
Honda parts! good call!
Ive always want to place a washer jet under my rear lisc plate so it squirts up in an arc far enough to tag any one riding my *** in traffic.
03-09-2014, 01:06 PM
#6
Team Owner
Gonna need this on the 85 Euro so much old clogged lines and other PO makeovers to undo
03-09-2014, 10:47 PM
#7
Track Day
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Thanks for the great post & info. I was just looking into this same problem a couple of weeks ago because my passenger side is not working. This could make things a lot easier!
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12-08-2018, 04:12 PM
#8
Track Day
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A note on the two vs. four check valves:
I think Porsche used four check valves to minimize the amount of line-clearing that needed to occur when switching between the normal and high-concentrate reservoir. If you want to get that high concentrate on the window quickly, the Y and thus the check valves needs to be close to each nozzle, and this means four valves not two, because the two nozzles are obviously spread apart. This is especially true because the high intensity washer button is on a timer - when you press it down, the motor only runs briefly, and maybe not long enough to push fluid through an extra two feet of hose. If you rarely use the high-concentrate solution and don't mind repeatedly pressing the button so as to clear another one or two feet of hose, then two check valves is a good simplification.
Also Amazon has "SWF" valves that look about the same as the Porsche ones, for about half the price of the Honda valves mentioned by the OP. I suggest using 4 mm ID silicone line for the replacement hose.
Three of my original valves were stuck open, and the previous owner had simply disconnected the high-concentrate reservoir and T'd all the lines to the normal reservoir.
I think Porsche used four check valves to minimize the amount of line-clearing that needed to occur when switching between the normal and high-concentrate reservoir. If you want to get that high concentrate on the window quickly, the Y and thus the check valves needs to be close to each nozzle, and this means four valves not two, because the two nozzles are obviously spread apart. This is especially true because the high intensity washer button is on a timer - when you press it down, the motor only runs briefly, and maybe not long enough to push fluid through an extra two feet of hose. If you rarely use the high-concentrate solution and don't mind repeatedly pressing the button so as to clear another one or two feet of hose, then two check valves is a good simplification.
Also Amazon has "SWF" valves that look about the same as the Porsche ones, for about half the price of the Honda valves mentioned by the OP. I suggest using 4 mm ID silicone line for the replacement hose.
Three of my original valves were stuck open, and the previous owner had simply disconnected the high-concentrate reservoir and T'd all the lines to the normal reservoir.
Last edited by DQL; 12-09-2018 at 10:01 PM.
12-29-2018, 10:42 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
A note on the two vs. four check valves:
I think Porsche used four check valves to minimize the amount of line-clearing that needed to occur when switching between the normal and high-concentrate reservoir....... Also Amazon has "SWF" valves that look about the same as the Porsche ones, for about half the price of the Honda valves mentioned by the OP. I suggest using 4 mm ID silicone line for the replacement hose.
Three of my original valves were stuck open, and the previous owner had simply disconnected the high-concentrate reservoir and T'd all the lines to the normal reservoir.
I think Porsche used four check valves to minimize the amount of line-clearing that needed to occur when switching between the normal and high-concentrate reservoir....... Also Amazon has "SWF" valves that look about the same as the Porsche ones, for about half the price of the Honda valves mentioned by the OP. I suggest using 4 mm ID silicone line for the replacement hose.
Three of my original valves were stuck open, and the previous owner had simply disconnected the high-concentrate reservoir and T'd all the lines to the normal reservoir.
Steve
12-30-2018, 09:29 AM
#10
Racer
Actually, I believe there were also one-way valves close to the nozzles. That prevents fluid seeping out for some time after using the washers.
regards
Theo, 1992 928GTS
regards
Theo, 1992 928GTS
