I had a slight vibration from the car after starting it it was drive line related.

These mounts were original and looked good 5 years ago when i went through the car,..
Anyway after more investigation I noticed that the space under the trans to rear cross member was gone.
Si I ordered a new set of mounts and put them in now there is about 1 inch of clearance between the cross member and the trans no more drive line vibrations.

Also a picture of the removed fuel rail gauge note the tan color of the fluid inside it, this was in service for 5 years

to do this job
I jacked up the rear set the car on jackstands,
removed the rear wheels,
then got a bunch of extensions and a universal joint and 19mm socket,
and fiddled with getting the right combo to fit on the trans mount bolt,
going in from the rear spring of the suspension,
once these were broken loose then the bolt on the cross member was loosened and removed,
I had to press the E brake cable out of the way, but other than that it was pretty easy,
then put the jack under the rear of the trans and lifted it up ,
then removed the bolts and RnR the mounts, put some anti seize onto the bolts .
I didnt find any shims under either of the mounts .

NOTE the shims are used on the other crossmember position where its bolted to the chassis,
so not to preload the chassis to the crossmember

 

Yep. trans mounts are key. My experience was new motor mounts affected the balance of the transaxle, which cause the rear end to judder.

 

Yup, that's what mine look like, have not changed them but will when I do the torque tube.

Where ya get that kick *** fuel gauge from?

 

I have the same gauge. I got it at a LAPS ('Baxters'). It is leaking glycerin from the bezel, as it looks like Stan's is too.

 

Stan, did you happen to measure beneath the new mounts as per the WSM "transmission suspension" shimming procedure?

 

In the first pic you can see where the bottom part (rectangle) was touching the upper casting. That's where the vibration was from.

Now, if you put a spacer in there and let it sit on a shelf for 5 years, will it go back to the original shape?

 

stan....can you describe the vibration? particularly interested in where it was present in the rev range.

tia

 

+1.
Stan:
Did you have to drop the exhaust to do the job?
What are the big lines for doing the job?

I have two new mounts laying around somewhere in the garage!

 

Thanks Stan - nice photo.

I forgot to take pics of my old ones when I swapped the trans mounts last year during TT rebuild and gearbox work - good to see them posted up.

Swapping just the mounts is trivial and doesn't involve dropping the trans - you can just jack it up off the cross member and unbolt/rebolt the mounts. If you're dropping the trans for other reasons like TT rebuild, then it should be another WYAIT.

 

Those old ones look just like the set I replaced a couple of weeks ago. Took a little while to figure out how to get tools on the bolts and get them broken loose. Once that was done it was pretty straight forward. No need to drop the exhaust. Mine did not have any shims installed. Don't think they were ever needed.

Mike

 

to do this job
I jacked up the rear set the car on jackstands,
removed the rear wheels,
then got a bunch of extensions and a universal joint and 19mm socket,
and fiddled with getting the right combo to fit on the trans mount bolt,
going in from the rear spring of the suspension,
once these were broken loose then the bolt on the cross member was loosened and removed,
I had to press the E brake cable out of the way, but other than that it was pretty easy,
then put the jack under the rear of the trans and lifted it up ,
then removed the bolts and RnR the mounts, put some anti seize onto the bolts .
I didnt find any shims under either of the mounts .

The vibration was felt in the seat,
it felt like there was something rubbing on the chassis when the engine was started,
after lifting the trans up i found a few areas where the trans was rubbing on the middle heat shields.
The white plastic areas had slight wear marks from the trans mounting points rubbing on them.
NOTE this would have been a sideways left to right movement of the trans,
and the mounts are made to be rubbed on as there is hard plastic inserted into the mounts to accommodate this

Sean I got the gauge at Motorsport in Utah when i worked there,
it came from Summit racing supplies,
I never noticed it leaking any fluid and it always had that airbubble in it

 

Thank you Stan for the good description.

 

Did the trans mount this weekend.
Everything went very well.

Didn't have big problems but the car is smoother for sure.
I think they were not completly done but well worth the time and $.

Thanks again Stan.

Also, the car as about 58K miles.

 

If you still have your old mounts I am collecting them for a rebuild project.

 

I think clearance may be different on manual cars, as there was no way to get a socket on the bolt when I tried. Took a lot of perseverance to crack them loose as I simply couldn't get the leverage on the ring spanner, I seem to remember chaining them together and eventually the bolts came out.