Everything new and car overheats
#32
Doug would mid to please tell what is the year of the car your working on?
I am guessing here but if its an early car then there is a good chance its ready to have the headgaskets replaced.
do a block test this will let you know if you have a gasket issue,
using the IR gun will let you know if there are issues with the waterpump
I am guessing here but if its an early car then there is a good chance its ready to have the headgaskets replaced.
do a block test this will let you know if you have a gasket issue,
using the IR gun will let you know if there are issues with the waterpump
#33
Doug would mid to please tell what is the year of the car your working on?
I am guessing here but if its an early car then there is a good chance its ready to have the headgaskets replaced.
do a block test this will let you know if you have a gasket issue,
using the IR gun will let you know if there are issues with the waterpump
I am guessing here but if its an early car then there is a good chance its ready to have the headgaskets replaced.
do a block test this will let you know if you have a gasket issue,
using the IR gun will let you know if there are issues with the waterpump
Headgaskets were replaced less than 2 years ago by the previous owner due to a leak.
#34
Started with the most simple item, the coolant cap, and it tested to hold no pressure. Got a new 1 BAR cap and ran the car for 20 minutes on the lift and all seems well. Temp gauge was just a click over the first mark. Did not get an IR thermometer yet, but the upper rad hose was hot, the radiator got hot and the lower hose got warm. Did not take it for a drive because of bad weather. Hopefully the cap was the cause of the problem. Will find out for sure when the weather clears.
#37
if all of this was not done then complete these items for replacement.
As part of a coolant system refresh, yes you would replace the HCV and short hose as well as the coolant bottle cap and thermostat and seals.
As part of a coolant system refresh, yes you would replace the HCV and short hose as well as the coolant bottle cap and thermostat and seals.
#38
Think of It like a pressure cooker, if the cap is not on correct (push down hard to turn the extra 1/2 turn) it will boil over.
fill the bottle and let it sit 2 hrs, refill and continue till it stops bleeding down.
#39
Those were replaced during the rebuild. I guess that the rad cap is so easy to get to and that it functioned fine before, I never bothered to replace it. Honestly, until now, I never really understood how they worked or what they really did. After a google search, all is clear. Still have not driven the car with this fix yet so a problem may still lie within.
#40
if the waterpump was bad then the car would run hot in less than 5 mins of idling,
so this could still be an issue .
HOWEVER with the added info about the HGs being replaced it gives a better idea that your not having a leaking headgasket or exhaust gasses pressurizing the coolant system,
though if it does overheat it would be worth doing this check prior to pulling the waterpump
so this could still be an issue .
HOWEVER with the added info about the HGs being replaced it gives a better idea that your not having a leaking headgasket or exhaust gasses pressurizing the coolant system,
though if it does overheat it would be worth doing this check prior to pulling the waterpump