rexpontius

When I fitted the new FPR, required for the PorKen s300s chips, I thought it would also be a good idea to replace the slightly leaking rear cam seals.

The drivers side seals were a bit fiddly, but not impossible. With the proper 10mm socket I was able to remove the bolts and pull off the old seals.
The new seals went in pretty easily and they don't seem to leak anymore.

On the passenger side, the seal in the intake camshaft was also OK, but the exhaust side looked nearly impossible to get to.

I could barely squeeze my fingers between the firewall and the head to 'feel' were the bolt was. Fitting a socket looks impossible. So I decided to leave it as it is, but off course I want to replace it in the near future.

Any tips on the best method to replace it (besided pulling the engine :-))

Cheers

Lizard928

I made a tool to do this very job. It's not an easy one for sure.

JHowell37

When I changed mine, I assumed from the beginning that it would be difficult. So then I just assumed that the only way to avoid frustration was to remove the valve cover and the rear cap. I cleaned the old loctite, and at first tried some other kind of sealant. This didn't work, so I bought the proper loctite specified in the WSM, put it on the mating surfaces of the cap and head, and pushed the new seal in with my fingers before I really got it tight, and then tightened it the rest of the way. 4 years and no leaks.

dcrasta

This I need to do ASAP. My seal leaks (drips) oil causing a low density smoke screen from time to time. Usually this happens after I stop the car for a short period of time (like picking up the ole lady) . Soon as she gets in and I touch the heat control, smoke. Of course she is in 'freak out the car is gonna explode' mode. LOL

On the other hand, maybe I should just leave it ..

Lizard928

The tool I made is not pretty, but it does the job.
You dont need to pull the valve cover, or do anything else.

Take a 10mm wrench with box end. Then cut off the box end.
take the cut off bot end and lay it on top of the end you cut it off of, and weld it on. This allows you to get the bolt free and once its loose you can remove easily with your fingers. I used a 27mm wrench or so to push the new seal back into place.

928ntslow

Years ago, I took a 2 ended offset wrench and cut the 11mm side off and then torched the angle on the 10mm side and bent it down more to give a greater angle to reach behind the heads. Got the idea from Colin. This allowed me to clear the firewall. Worked like a charm.

Kevin in Atlanta

I used a crowbar.

rexpontius

You used a crowbar to remove the 10mm bolt? :-)

JHowell37

Removing the 10MM bolts is a breeze with or without the valve cover in place. Get a set of the craftsmen ratcheting combination wrenches. They also sell sockets that are specifically meant to be used on the ratcheting box end of those wrenches. Put the 10MM socket into the 10mm wrench and have the same tool Colin described, without having to do any cutting and welding.

You can see a picture of the wrenches and sockets I'm referring to, here:
http://community.craftsman.com/Craft...ws?tab=details

That Craftsmen set includes what I call the "BDM" or Bastard Domestic Metric sizes because it has a 15MM and 18MM but no 17MM or 19MM, despite the fact that they are standard metric sizes in the rest of the world.

Bilal928S4

I have had good luck with this cheap(er) Harbor Freight tool. You put this into whatever socket size you have and then use the appropriate size open or racheting wrench to losen or tighten the fastner.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...aps-67011.html
Hope that helps.
Bilal

Kevin in Atlanta

No, to press the seal in.

davek9

If I recall, I did that one from under the car, and used a small block of wood and lever to press it in.
Ahh just pull the eng

mikeb7

Getting the bolts out is a piece of cake with the little ratcheting wrench contraption I put together.

But what tricks do folks use to get the old seal out? I've read of drilling a small hole and pulling them out, but that would only seem an option on the front ones.

Really want to do these, but keep getting stuck on how to get the old seals out.

WyattsRide

My thread may help. Start at page two if you don't want to read all the preliminary stuff.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...acement-2.html

mikeb7

Thanks. Unfortunately, mine are not the original one piece units that would be easy remove.
Someone replaced them once already with the later 2-piece, but did a crappy job and didn't get them in straight (and probably without any sealant either).

So I have the harder task of getting out the disc part of the 2-piece style.

I did find this thread which offers two options:
one is pushing in on one side til the other side pops out.
The other (right) way appears to be to follow the workshop manual and pull cam cover and bridge.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...uestion-2.html